Jump to content
SAU Community

I Need Screach Plates For 1996 Skyline Breaks Asap Help Me

mordor22

By mordor22,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

mordor22 Enthusiast

mordor22

Posted
Posted

help needed front breaks make screach noise told need plates for them can annyone help im in vic will pay to buy and for sumone to instal them

screchers when put foot on breaks and hand break on its bad turn to manny heads my way help 0438 504509 [email protected] if annyone can help our nows annyone let me no needed bad

Burgerman Enthusiast

Burgerman

Posted
Posted

I think he's refferring to the backing plates that go on the back of the pads? I got new pads the other day and they squeal like all buggery, the mechanic said he can get some in from japan that would cost about $60 or so. Which reminds me I gotta call him and find out if they've arrived yet.

Cheers

  • 1 month later...
skyer33ywl Rookie

skyer33ywl

Posted
Posted

i TOLD HIM WHAT TO GET SQUEELER PLATES OFF THE BREAKING SYSTEM THEY ARE A THIN METAL PLATE WITH A EDGE IN THEM WHICH TAKE UP ANY VIBRATION FROM THE PADS AND BREAK THIS IS WHY IT MAKES SQUEELING NOISE...

HAD SPECILISED CLUTCH AND BREAK PLACE TO PUT A NEW HEAVY DUTY EXCEEDY CLUTCH AND BREAK PADS IN MY OLD CAR.....

GET THESE AND BOOK IT IN TO GEELONG CLUTCH AND BREAK SPECIALIST THEY WILL FIX IT STRAIGHT AWAY.

cowie165 Veteran

cowie165

Posted
Posted
i TOLD HIM WHAT TO GET SQUEELER PLATES OFF THE BREAKING SYSTEM THEY ARE A THIN METAL PLATE WITH A EDGE IN THEM WHICH TAKE UP ANY VIBRATION FROM THE PADS AND BREAK THIS IS WHY IT MAKES SQUEELING NOISE...

HAD SPECILISED CLUTCH AND BREAK PLACE TO PUT A NEW HEAVY DUTY EXCEEDY CLUTCH AND BREAK PADS IN MY OLD CAR.....

GET THESE AND BOOK IT IN TO GEELONG CLUTCH AND BREAK SPECIALIST THEY WILL FIX IT STRAIGHT AWAY.

Hi dude. Please don't use caps. It is hard to read and implies that you're yelling.

The 'squeeler plates' are called shims. You can buy Anti-Squeal Paste to help keep your brakes quiet. Works a treat.

And to all fellow SAUers, the things that make your car slow down are 'brakes'. If a plate falls onto the kitchen floor, it 'breaks'.

Mark

RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted
Hi dude. Please don't use caps. It is hard to read and implies that you're yelling.

Amen!

The 'squeeler plates' are called shims. You can buy Anti-Squeal Paste to help keep your brakes quiet. Works a treat.

And where would we find such items? I think i'd like to give this a go. Sometimes mine squeal badly, sometimes they don't make a damn sound! =-/

And to all fellow SAUers, the things that make your car slow down are 'brakes'. If a plate falls onto the kitchen floor, it 'breaks'.

Double Amen!

cowie165 Veteran

cowie165

Posted
Posted
And where would we find such items? I think i'd like to give this a go. Sometimes mine squeal badly, sometimes they don't make a damn sound! =-/

Heya Steve.

I use CRC Anti-Squeal Paste. It's orange goo in a bottle with a nozzle like you'd see on a tube of silicone. I found it at Auto-One in the same place you find CRC Brakekleen, CRC Carbycleaner, etc. Just keep an eye out for a small orange bottle. Slap it everywhere you like ;) But the best place is between the pad and the shim. It's super sticky and doesn't wash off clothing. It's about $10 or $15 I think.

I guess it just stops any noise caused by the shim vibrating against the pad - ie. squealing. It made my (otherwise universally noisy) RB74 pads completely silent.

12VES Contributor

12VES

Posted
Posted

That anti-squeal paste is good stuff and works a treat if you have shims or backing plates on your brake pads. A few other things to consider are that alot of brake pads have an audible warning built in to let you know when the pads are getting low. This usually consists of a piece of metal that rubs on the disc rotor when the pads are low. This can sometimes be bent during installation and cause it to prematurely rub on the rotor causing an audible sqeal. Another thing to consider is the high copper/metal content in the pad which will also cause squealing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Trilbyte
      RB25 S2 Idles but doesn't want to rev

      By Trilbyte · Posted

      Update for the sake of closure   Ended up getting the intercooler piping all sorted, new plugs and yellow jacket coils, and she was idling mint until it warmed up while I was bleeding the cooling system. Found the misfire to be localised to cyl 3 by unplugging coilpacks, ran a compression test, that checked out, then decided to get a mate to check if that spark plug was firing out of the motor. Upon cranking it over, with the injectors disconnected, the car actually fired and ran on a couple cylinders and heaps of fuel came out the top of cyl 3 I'd say that injector's either spraying incorrectly or spraying far too much, which is fine as I'm planning on replacing them anyway I'm planning on making about 250kW on flex fuel, and have a set of 1000cc injectors from ozautosport, obviously overkill but I'm planning on building the motor and running more boost further down the line, do you reckon they'd be too big for a smooth idle on 98? Thanks for the replies gents, much appreciated
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Any feedback on GReddy Turbine Kit T620Z in r33 GTST/RB25DET?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Nice modern Hypergear high flow would be perfect.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I'm confused. You said you want to "remove the clear coat from most panels" but it sounds like you are actually doing a full respray? Few random things to add -  If you chase the blistered paint with 120 grit, I can almost guarantee you'll chase it down to bare metal (that's fine). But if you paint the car from here, you'll have nice little indents where ever the blistered paint was. The new paint won't magically level out the low areas, you need to fill them. Which leads me to the main point I wanted to add, make sure the whole car is flat before you paint it. All those areas with blistered paint you sanded out, make sure to fill them and triple check they are flat with a block guide coat. I'd also check the whole car is flat with a large block and guide coat but yeah up to you if you want to go that far.   
    • Duncan
      Any feedback on GReddy Turbine Kit T620Z in r33 GTST/RB25DET?

      By Duncan · Posted

      300hp (225kw) is barely outside the standard turbo's range with a bit of extra boost in it (200ish). If you are going to change the turbo you should aim for 250-300kw (330-400hp) to make the expense worthwhile
    • Murray_Calavera
      Any feedback on GReddy Turbine Kit T620Z in r33 GTST/RB25DET?

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      A couple of things, firstly omg that turbo is expensive! $3,000 USD for dinosaur technology is robbery. You could buy a G series turbo and have a good amount of change instead.  If you want a good budget option, have a look here - https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/ If you are keen to spend more, have look at the modern turbos, Garrett G series, Borgwarner EFR, etc. Have a look at the RB25 dyno results thread for inspiration.  If you upgrade your turbo to something that will support the 300hp you want and only "probably" have Haltech ECU, your car will only "probably" run. Actually, no it won't run. You are going to need the ECU and injectors at the time you do the turbo upgrade.  No thoughts on "this much boost" as you didn't say how much boost that actually is. Having said that, plenty of unopened RB25's making even more power then what you are chasing.   
×
×
  • Create New...