Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just got my premium from just car and it has gone up 270 in one year, agreed value went down 1100 also.

Called them up and they changed premium still 160 above last year and agreed back to what was before.

Im 28 on rating 1 with no accidents or claims.

Apparently its because its a popular car and many claims have been made

Who are you thru and what are your premiums?

Looking at calling shannons to see what they say

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172786-insurance-who-are-you-thru/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Just got my premium from just car and it has gone up 270 in one year, agreed value went down 1100 also.

Called them up and they changed premium still 160 above last year and agreed back to what was before.

Im 28 on rating 1 with no accidents or claims.

Apparently its because its a popular car and many claims have been made

Who are you thru and what are your premiums?

Looking at calling shannons to see what they say

Whats the total quote ?

Shannons wont insure unless there kept in a locked garage at night most of the time.

im with Famous http://www.famousinsurance.com.au/

$700 full comp. age 33 rating 1

about $1000 excess and agreed value of $21,700

i was with just cars but didnt want to pay 900bux full comp and wasnt happy with $16000 agreed value

Edited by Madaz

I cant complain with Just Cars, I got my renewal 2 months ago, nothing at all changed. Rating One, Full Comp, Agreed Value of $34,500. Suspension & Exhaust... And I only pay $1170. I am now 22. I used to pay half of that for my first car (S13, when i was 17) for 3rd party only!!!!

Im with Shannons, I found them cheaper then Justcars and they insured me for full value unlike Justcars.

Im 20, and they have claseed me as a rating 1, im only paying 980. but have huge excess for my age, which was the same with Justcars.

Brad i'm paying $1100 premium and like $400 excess with all mods like PFC, Cooler, wheels, kit! Thats with Shannons and i could pay by the month as soon as i started(none of this 1st year crap) and choice of repairer! The only catch is it "supposidly" cant do more than 5k kms a year! But meh i don't do that anyways!

EDIT: BTW my excess was like $700-900 before i turned 25, now 26!

Shannons FTW with my situation! If i remember Just Cars quoted me like $900 Premium and like $1600 excess, So naturally i told them where to stick it!

Edited by Deluxe

Another vote for shannons here. I pay ~$990 per year, 26 rating 1 for life, agreed value of $16k, and $300(??) basic excess.

Thats on an R33 GTSt Ser 1 with mods of susp, exhaust, kit, wheels, stereo, momo wheel. And any future mods they are fine with.

Best quote I could get.

Shannon's is pointless if your cars a daily driven car, and if you do 'x' amount of kays don't lock it up in a garage etc. I don't understand you guys that pay all this money for full comp but don't tell them all your mods, u do realise that if u have an accident and they see that you've got stuff which u haven't told them about then they won't cover u!

I have to pay this comp insurance til i finish paying out the loan. Once thats gone ill hopefully have a daily driver and then i can get this 'limited km, locked up' insurance at a cheaper price.

Another co. is Vigil insurance (if you can ever get through). For me, their price was similar to Shannons, but without limited kms. May be an option as a daily driver? I just chose not to go with them as I had a hard time getting a hold of them to actually get a quote, so was worried if I ever had to make a claim

Im with just cars, rating 2 now. $2,400 a year agreed value of $28,500. However, might reconsider full comp... Some advice guys, read your fine print on your insurance policy. Road Worthy means 'RTA' approved (or whatever your state road authority is). This can be debated.. if you dont have engineering certificates (hence defectable mods e.g. 20" rims, exhaust) then they COULD reject ur claim if the mod was seen to be the cause or a cause for the accident.

I suggest you guys ask.. youll get this response im sure "check with your state road authority to make sure you are road worthy". I might be stressing to much over it but remember We live in a very specific world.

I am with Shannons, and the quality of cover they provide is excellent.

The excess is reasonable (unlike others) an d they will accept the mods I have (and I told them of all mods)

The premium isnt cheap but compares well with other companies

  • 3 months later...

some good info ^^^

I just re-insured the GTR

Went for Shannons

Justcars was a lil cheaper, but their excess is 3x more

Famous didn't answer the phone, online quotes had errors

Edited by andz
im with Famous http://www.famousinsurance.com.au/

$700 full comp. age 33 rating 1

about $1000 excess and agreed value of $21,700

i was with just cars but didnt want to pay 900bux full comp and wasnt happy with $16000 agreed value

im with westfarmers insurence.

i pay $770 full comp. age 19 with rating 1 :(

$900 excess if my fault $600 if its not and insured for $14,000

they dont give a shit whats done to the car and very rarely would they put the cost of full comp up with a new modd.

downside, you must insure EVERYTHING with them but thats not really that bad ;)

kye

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update for the sake of closure   Ended up getting the intercooler piping all sorted, new plugs and yellow jacket coils, and she was idling mint until it warmed up while I was bleeding the cooling system. Found the misfire to be localised to cyl 3 by unplugging coilpacks, ran a compression test, that checked out, then decided to get a mate to check if that spark plug was firing out of the motor. Upon cranking it over, with the injectors disconnected, the car actually fired and ran on a couple cylinders and heaps of fuel came out the top of cyl 3 I'd say that injector's either spraying incorrectly or spraying far too much, which is fine as I'm planning on replacing them anyway I'm planning on making about 250kW on flex fuel, and have a set of 1000cc injectors from ozautosport, obviously overkill but I'm planning on building the motor and running more boost further down the line, do you reckon they'd be too big for a smooth idle on 98? Thanks for the replies gents, much appreciated
    • I'm confused. You said you want to "remove the clear coat from most panels" but it sounds like you are actually doing a full respray? Few random things to add -  If you chase the blistered paint with 120 grit, I can almost guarantee you'll chase it down to bare metal (that's fine). But if you paint the car from here, you'll have nice little indents where ever the blistered paint was. The new paint won't magically level out the low areas, you need to fill them. Which leads me to the main point I wanted to add, make sure the whole car is flat before you paint it. All those areas with blistered paint you sanded out, make sure to fill them and triple check they are flat with a block guide coat. I'd also check the whole car is flat with a large block and guide coat but yeah up to you if you want to go that far.   
    • 300hp (225kw) is barely outside the standard turbo's range with a bit of extra boost in it (200ish). If you are going to change the turbo you should aim for 250-300kw (330-400hp) to make the expense worthwhile
    • A couple of things, firstly omg that turbo is expensive! $3,000 USD for dinosaur technology is robbery. You could buy a G series turbo and have a good amount of change instead.  If you want a good budget option, have a look here - https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/ If you are keen to spend more, have look at the modern turbos, Garrett G series, Borgwarner EFR, etc. Have a look at the RB25 dyno results thread for inspiration.  If you upgrade your turbo to something that will support the 300hp you want and only "probably" have Haltech ECU, your car will only "probably" run. Actually, no it won't run. You are going to need the ECU and injectors at the time you do the turbo upgrade.  No thoughts on "this much boost" as you didn't say how much boost that actually is. Having said that, plenty of unopened RB25's making even more power then what you are chasing.   
×
×
  • Create New...