Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  nissanbenny said:
^^^ ok confirmation that's the correct part number ^^^

however the switch from nissan is $345... lol

Part No.s 25160-01U02 and 25160-01U03 come up on my system but they may by old numbers by now, looks like it could just have superseded

  116.hks said:
Hey mate. Was just wondering if you could find the part numbers for the both front door rubbers and rear tail light assy, on a 1993 R32 4 door at all????

V.I.N HCR32297424

MODEL RCR32GFSLAA

Cheers.

80830-01U10 weatherstrip FRT DR RH

80831-01u10 weatherstrip FRT DR LH

are the weatherstrips that fit to the lower sections of the doors

76860-01U11 weather strip body side RH FRT

76861-01U11 weather strip body side LH FRT

are the weatherstrips that fit to the body and seal the glass to the body

B6550-01U60 RH rear taillight

B6555-01U60 LH rear taillight

  neofenrir34 said:
80830-01U10 weatherstrip FRT DR RH

80831-01u10 weatherstrip FRT DR LH

are the weatherstrips that fit to the lower sections of the doors

76860-01U11 weather strip body side RH FRT

76861-01U11 weather strip body side LH FRT

are the weatherstrips that fit to the body and seal the glass to the body

B6550-01U60 RH rear taillight

B6555-01U60 LH rear taillight

Thanks. Much appreciated. :D

  neofenrir34 said:
yes still in use, appears i am the only one responding.

Thanks for helping us out bud

28174-5P600 RH

28175-5p600 LH

those should be close, however being a trim part i would prefer to have a vin number

My vin number is ER34202802 can you confirm the part numbers?

Thanks heaps

  • 1 month later...
  Marcus89 said:
Thanks for helping us out bud

28174-5P600 RH

28175-5p600 LH

those should be close, however being a trim part i would prefer to have a vin number

My vin number is ER34202802 can you confirm the part numbers?

Thanks heaps

Sorry for late reply. Yes those numbers are the one the vin selects

  ShanO` said:
Hey all,

I am chasing a part number for a passenger side rear Wheel bearing to suit R34 25gt

My Vin is ER34005218

Cheers

Shane

Part No. 43210-AA100/43210-AA000. part has superseded, it will be one of then number. (which ever one works)

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

I need a part number for an R32 Spec RB25DE. Is it 21200-42L06 ? As this seems to be the R33 number.

The engine is not the original one for the car, so not much point giving people the vin number. Any help would be appreciated.

I'm looking for the bushing for the link and arm or whatsoever it is call.

Nissan R33 GTS25T S2.

4740942763_e87cf63f29_b.jpg

if someone has the page of it in their service manual, it will help me a lot since nissan dealer told me it was to old...

you can send it to olomana.vongue@gmail.com

Thanks!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As GTS mentioned, it takes a bit of faffing, some fiddling and a little modifying.  With the strainers, you can buy different styles. Some sit flat on the pump, some angle down.  Here are some photos of mine, ignore the ugly welds lol. 
    • The smart thing is to actually locate the pump at the right point down the hanger, so that the strainer can stay sticking out at a right angle, but near the bottom. This is the perpetual hassle with retrofitting any different pump to the factory hanger. Some just go where you need it to, some need fiddling and faffing, and modifying of stuff.
    • Some updates. After a lot of praying and some inspecting of crank threads, we've found that they were both kinda munted but nothing seemed terminal. The other option was drilling and helicoiling the crank. That is obviously the last option so we decided to at least try to get a OEM GM bolt in to GM Specs. So after honing/linishing the balancer from it's .002" interference fit to a .0018" to .0015" to .0013" it eventually slotted on to the crank. ATI state the interference is nominally 0.0007-0.0009... so it's still snugger than ATI reckon and explains the issues we had to fit the thing to begin with. New GM bolt went in at 37 ft/lb then torqued 140 degrees after which was EXTREMELY   but it tightened up to 140 degrees and it was a lot of force. So all things considered, the balancer is secured to the exact specs that GM want with the OEM Stretch bolt, (that ATI say you can use..) and the balancer itself is seated and snug AF. So WOO. Engine is now back in the car with lots of swearing. Bellhousing bolts done up, driver side manifold is on, AC Compressor and hard lines are back on the car. Next step will be to connect various engine bits/wiring/intake/radiator etc. Then oil and coolant and ... test start it? And of course, looking into this issue... which actually doesn't look so bad - It looks like it can be twisted back into shape with a set of multigrips. Anyone wanna buy my bonnet? Boy it looks good over there and sunk cost sucks.
    • Also this may be a stupid question, but how would you recommend getting the strainer on a downwards angle ? as they tend to obviously clip to the bottom of the pump which usually sits level 馃ゴ
  • Create New...