Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

howdy. Just a quick question (or 2). Where have you ppl bought your suspension kits from here in Adelaide?

I wanna get some coilovers for me 32 gtst. I have got some lowered springs on the front now, and wanna keep it that height (I can barely clear those goddam spoonies now as it is with me nismo front):)

Also, do you just need coilovers, strutbrace, and a camber kit? I dont wanna be a drifter, just good handlin.

I also got a set of lowered king springs for the front and back when I bought the car. They are too low for me (car was defected b4 with them in). How much could I get 4 em? Does any1 wanna make an offer?

Lastly, what have you bought new or SH? Dunno if I trust buyin SH sh*t...

cheers:run:

:rolleyes: :rave:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/17296-suspension/
Share on other sites

If you want a car that handles well on the street i would suggest just getting some good shocks (Bilstein) with some decent springs. The ones you have are proabably good enough as the shocks are platform height adjustable. The money you save from coilovers you can buy adjustable swaybars, caster rods, replace bushes and get the strutbraces.

I have a strutbrace for sale, and wil be making some caster rods in a few weeks if your interested.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/17296-suspension/#findComment-356834
Share on other sites

I meant get some good shocks i use bilstein and use the springs you have. You can adjust the height with the bilstein shocks and they will be cheaper than s/h coilovers.

Caster rods allow you to alter caster. More caster will imporve turn in, up to a point, but makes steering a bit heavier. There bushers in the rear are important as well, i replace 4 in each side.

I make the strut braces myself, i can email you a pic if your interested.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/17296-suspension/#findComment-357387
Share on other sites

If you want some bilsteins, D1 Garage have a set (with springs) second hand - would really recommend castor rods or bushes, a strut brace helps and pineapples if you get axle tramp. Whiteline adjustable sway bars are about 5 hundred a set new fitted (maybe less?) - thats what they cost on my R33 anyways - these are also very good value for money. Lastly get a good wheel alignment, this way you will know if you need camber bushes:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/17296-suspension/#findComment-368359
Share on other sites

Joel first get some shocks, then come and see me reagarding everything else. I can get a price on Bilsteins new but as whiteline only resell them and dont manufacture them and their prices are not that good.

With the power you plan you will want to do the works eventually otherwise the car will move around all over the place. The full whiteline kit is about $500 plus about $150 for fitting, includes caster bushes, rear camber, swaybars.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/17296-suspension/#findComment-368365
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think my main complaint with your idea is that there is a veneer of idealism spread across it. You want the simple numbers to make it easier, but all they will do is make it easier for someone to come to the wrong conclusion because the fine details will kick them in the nuts. As it is right now, the tiny bit of arithmetic is NOT the obstacle to understanding what will fit and what will not fit. The reality of trying it is what determines whether it will fit. If you had a "standard rule" that R34 GTT guards have that magic 100mm space from the hub face to whichever side you were worried about, and someone said "excellent, this wheel is only 98mm in that direction, I'll just go spend $4k on them and jam them on my sick ride".....they would just as likely find out that the "standard rule" is not true because the rear subframe is offset to one side by a fairly typical (but variable) 8mm on their car and they only have 92mm on one side and 108 on the other.
    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
    • Sure! But you at least have simple numbers instead of 8.5 inches +/mm, relative to your current rims you do maths with as well, and/or compare with OEM diameter, which you also need to know/research/confirm..
×
×
  • Create New...