Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys, I just bought a R32 GTS4, its got a pod filter so I want to box it up.

does anyone have some examples of designs they could show me? especially for intake.. i don't really want to cut any holes in my chassis/wheel arch if i can avoid it.

the cars at the mechanics at the moment so I can't measure it up, but i was just planning to do a 4 sided box sitting against the chassis with a 3 inch hole in the front to run a piece of pvc pipe or some form of tubing out to the front bar. where do people usually get the air from? does anyone have pictures of the stock airbox so i can see where it gets air from?

I work at a fabrication shop so i probably have access to anything i would need.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172970-help-fabbing-airbox-for-r32-rb20det/
Share on other sites

hi guys, I just bought a R32 GTS4, its got a pod filter so I want to box it up.

does anyone have some examples of designs they could show me? especially for intake.. i don't really want to cut any holes in my chassis/wheel arch if i can avoid it.

the cars at the mechanics at the moment so I can't measure it up, but i was just planning to do a 4 sided box sitting against the chassis with a 3 inch hole in the front to run a piece of pvc pipe or some form of tubing out to the front bar. where do people usually get the air from? does anyone have pictures of the stock airbox so i can see where it gets air from?

I work at a fabrication shop so i probably have access to anything i would need.

Im in the process of knocking one up for mine at the moment, should have it finished next weekend so i will post up some pics and what i used :whistling:

Im in the process of knocking one up for mine at the moment, should have it finished next weekend so i will post up some pics and what i used :whistling:

If you don't want to cut any holes you will probably need to use the stock hole under the headlight.

You can get an r32gtr or r32rb25 intake snorkel, which uses the all of the stock hole unlike the factory rb20 snorkel.

Also you can take the nose, that the snorkel fits onto, off your factory airbox as it is made of metal and rivet it to the front of your new airbox in a position that aligns with the factory snorkel.

It's up to you if you want to use the gtr/rb25 intake piping that attaches in front of the snorkel.

I've thought about using the gtr/rb25 intake section that bolts to the front bar reo and blocking off the intake hole and then plumbing an air scoop into the fitting that used to go to the gtr/rb25 resonator chamber.

The thing I wasn't sure about was whether the resonator duct was big enough.

If you don't want to cut any holes you will probably need to use the stock hole under the headlight.

You can get an r32gtr or r32rb25 intake snorkel, which uses the all of the stock hole unlike the factory rb20 snorkel.

Also you can take the nose, that the snorkel fits onto, off your factory airbox as it is made of metal and rivet it to the front of your new airbox in a position that aligns with the factory snorkel.

It's up to you if you want to use the gtr/rb25 intake piping that attaches in front of the snorkel.

I've thought about using the gtr/rb25 intake section that bolts to the front bar reo and blocking off the intake hole and then plumbing an air scoop into the fitting that used to go to the gtr/rb25 resonator chamber.

The thing I wasn't sure about was whether the resonator duct was big enough.

Yeah pretty much what i had in mind myself, engine going back in this weekend so hopefully finish off the box while im at it ;)

  • 3 months later...
where do people usually get the air from? does anyone have pictures of the stock airbox so i can see where it gets air from?

I work at a fabrication shop so i probably have access to anything i would need.

here's an example of my crappy diy for the time being. need a nice 3" pvc pipe but got this one for free, so cant complain.

abox_intake1.jpg

abox_intake2.jpg

in the process of fibreglassing one for mine. I've got a plug, now I just need to make a mould and then lay up some fibreglass on it. Will post a DIY with pics when I'm done.

oh and ive got a front mount so there is one spare hole where the pipe work normally returns to the engine so i used this as my air feed from down next to the bliker in the front bar , ive used that flexible tube from super shit AKA super cheap , the stuff the streaches then stays where u leave it , its great stuff

i made one those covers but came to the conclusion to put my pod outside the car i relised that it sucked way more cooler air just thought u like to know

i also have 32 gts4

Edited by ACTIV32

I think the std airbox with K&N and the triangular metal entry pipe beaten out to cylindrical,

inside a five inch plastic duct molded to fit into the entrance along side the headlight is the ultimate.

In the pic above ( post #7) you can see the two rectangular holes near the headlight,

- cut the middle bit of metal out making it one HUGE opening for the intake plastic duct molded

to the same shape and protruding out a bit and wrapping round to make a smooth air path!!

if ur after ideas for an airbox heres mine, on a r33.

2pieces of allie. top of one is press bent. then small rivets hold on threaded fasteners, so screws can go on top for ease.

i also have the box lined with heat resistant, and reflective foam. works a treat

post-40676-1192145022_thumb.jpg

Edited by r33cruiser

im having trouble thinking up a heat shield design for my r32, the pod is basically sitting upright because it has to fit between the cooler pipe and the a/c pipe i think it is. and im not to keen in extending the rubber intake pipe due to keeping things as short as possible for response purposes.

does anyone else have this problem?

any pics to show a design someone has come up with, to counter this problem and still keep things cool?

cheers

im having trouble thinking up a heat shield design for my r32, the pod is basically sitting upright because it has to fit between the cooler pipe and the a/c pipe i think it is. and im not to keen in extending the rubber intake pipe due to keeping things as short as possible for response purposes.

does anyone else have this problem?

any pics to show a design someone has come up with, to counter this problem and still keep things cool?

cheers

I'll get Sl!m to post pics of his airbox in here.

As for shorter piping from the pod to the turbo - this is not going to affect the response of the motor.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Fk me, I guess next time I will try to use the onsite attachments feature. I find it hard to work with so far though because I can't move the images to where I want them to be. I will try to make a separate post with just images. As for lifting. The work I need to do for now involves the exhaust and engine mainly, so the arm covering the jacking points is not a problem. But I don't want to bend in the whole sill or underfloor by lifting the car at the original jack points. I found some rubber blocks, 125 by 125 with a 10mm wide and 10mm deep cutout, which I'm hoping will work for not hitting the jacking rail. The sidemember, as seen in the service manual, are the rectangular frame rails that come from the front of the car and go alongside the gearbox and downpipe. Those that get crushed inwards if you use them for a floorjack. They are already slightly bent in from being used to hoist by other people. I think cutting off the jacking points and welding or bolting on a reinforcement plate along the sill might not be a dumb idea. Or is it dumb?     A 2 post hoist is what I'm gonna work with, but not for any underbody work, just leaky engine and exhaust work so far. Depends on what else I find that might need immediate attention. For metalwork on the sills I think I'd just bring the car to a panel beater. What's your take on getting rid of the original jacking rails and putting reinforcement plates along the sills?
    • Yeah titanium always looks cool but I don't need that, just regular pipes would be fine. But I am really struggling to find any full hardpipe kit that is still for sale.
    • Saruthewhite hasn’t been on our site since November 2016 sorry mate
    • Note when Duncan says that, he means "when you're not using the correct lifting points on the sills, because you want to work on the sills. A 2 post hoist is not appropriate for everything anyway, and working on the sills is a good example of that, because the arms go under ths sills anyway. You're better off finding another way to support the car off the ground. Beyond that everything else D said is correct. Only the dedicated jacking points are the correct place to lift. Anywhere else is incorrect, extra caution and awareness must be used, etc etc.
×
×
  • Create New...