Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all.

Just briefly, post up whatever is relevant.

This isnt a section to talk about upcoming models, rather models that are already out :(

If people have and ideas, sticky threads, info threads, whatever they want to create.

Let me know and we'll work something out.

Cheers

Ash

woohoo about time we had for the current model skyline.

They are an awesome car and will hopefully be what i'm in next.

The quality is leap years ahead of the R34 and anything before hand.

  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks Ash,

Could someone go through the other sections and find all the v35 related stuff and put them in the v35 section, because there were a few helpful threads reguarding sat nav conversions and such.

Cheers

Thraso

I cant do a bulk move unfortunately.

But if someone finds a thread, just drop me a PM.

I generally only check PM's once a week, so be patient, i will move them if you send me links etc :thumbsup:

cheers!

  • 3 months later...

Would we be stretching the friendship for our own for sale section too? :)

I know its a long shot, just thinking what would be the best way to sell parts specifically to other v35 drivers.

The other thing we can do which is probably a bit more practical is still post in the For Sale section but we use our own naming convention for the threads. Eg, start all threads with something like "V35-". If we all agree and make it the policy for selling our parts, then we can have a sticky up the top that runs a search that would pull all the threads for V35 parts and present them to us. Even if it was just a link to search results that would be fine. But we have to all agree on a convention.

Thoughts all?

We are re-doing the For Sale stuff currently, you'll notice there is a pre-filled out post every time you create one and so on.

We don't really want to create any more sections as For Sale is hard enough to police now with 3-4 people doing it on a mostly daily basis.

The state sections have been touch and go in Admin discussions for months.

The main reason is scammers. The more spread out sale areas are, the less chance Admin are going to see/pick-up on dodgy people via our various methods. This in turn leaves a bad taste in members mouths, even if its not SAU's fault, and last thing we want is people to be ripped.

So thats sorta the reasoning behind it all.

If you guys always put "V35-" at the start, then you'd easily find it via the search if you did things that way.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update for the sake of closure   Ended up getting the intercooler piping all sorted, new plugs and yellow jacket coils, and she was idling mint until it warmed up while I was bleeding the cooling system. Found the misfire to be localised to cyl 3 by unplugging coilpacks, ran a compression test, that checked out, then decided to get a mate to check if that spark plug was firing out of the motor. Upon cranking it over, with the injectors disconnected, the car actually fired and ran on a couple cylinders and heaps of fuel came out the top of cyl 3 I'd say that injector's either spraying incorrectly or spraying far too much, which is fine as I'm planning on replacing them anyway I'm planning on making about 250kW on flex fuel, and have a set of 1000cc injectors from ozautosport, obviously overkill but I'm planning on building the motor and running more boost further down the line, do you reckon they'd be too big for a smooth idle on 98? Thanks for the replies gents, much appreciated
    • I'm confused. You said you want to "remove the clear coat from most panels" but it sounds like you are actually doing a full respray? Few random things to add -  If you chase the blistered paint with 120 grit, I can almost guarantee you'll chase it down to bare metal (that's fine). But if you paint the car from here, you'll have nice little indents where ever the blistered paint was. The new paint won't magically level out the low areas, you need to fill them. Which leads me to the main point I wanted to add, make sure the whole car is flat before you paint it. All those areas with blistered paint you sanded out, make sure to fill them and triple check they are flat with a block guide coat. I'd also check the whole car is flat with a large block and guide coat but yeah up to you if you want to go that far.   
    • 300hp (225kw) is barely outside the standard turbo's range with a bit of extra boost in it (200ish). If you are going to change the turbo you should aim for 250-300kw (330-400hp) to make the expense worthwhile
    • A couple of things, firstly omg that turbo is expensive! $3,000 USD for dinosaur technology is robbery. You could buy a G series turbo and have a good amount of change instead.  If you want a good budget option, have a look here - https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/ If you are keen to spend more, have look at the modern turbos, Garrett G series, Borgwarner EFR, etc. Have a look at the RB25 dyno results thread for inspiration.  If you upgrade your turbo to something that will support the 300hp you want and only "probably" have Haltech ECU, your car will only "probably" run. Actually, no it won't run. You are going to need the ECU and injectors at the time you do the turbo upgrade.  No thoughts on "this much boost" as you didn't say how much boost that actually is. Having said that, plenty of unopened RB25's making even more power then what you are chasing.   
×
×
  • Create New...