Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, getting a front mount kit for my r33 and after some advice/knowledge. The pipe my bov is currently on shown in picture is going to be replaced. The other pic shows the kit I am getting, or similar so where is the best place to now put my bov? Would it be better to leave the standard one connected (metal plate blocks the bottom where it joins the intake to stop it functioning) and just get a new adaptor welded to the new pipe if so should I completely disconnect the stock bov or is the plate sufficient enough. Or should just get an adaptor to suit standard position. My main concern is what do I do with the vaccum lines left over if I move the bov and disconnect stock one. I will have the plumback pipe sitting there for the stock bov and the line that connects the the blitz one left doing nothing. I dont know where they should be going if I move the bov, as it was already the way it is when I got the car. If you can get ya head around what I just said help me out please. I tried to describe it as best as I can. Thanks

If you can help me out add me to msn. [email protected]

post-38045-1182154480_thumb.jpg

post-38045-1182154528_thumb.jpg

Edited by Jamie88
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173262-front-mountblow-off-valve-question/
Share on other sites

yeh where it is now is prob the best place and the only pipe that should be left free if u have a atmos BOV is the plumb back pipe and that just simply has to be covered up... use a grommet or sumthing...

Edited by blinko
yeh where it is now is prob the best place and the only pipe that should be left free if u have a atmos BOV is the plumb back pipe and that just simply has to be covered up... use a grommet or sumthing...

Yeah but what im saying is when I get my front mount, the pipe its on now will be replaced should I get it put back on that new pipe. Or put it in the standard position where the standard bov still remains? If I put it on the new cooler pipe should I leave the standard blow off valve the way it is? It has a metal plate between it and the inlet pipe.

unless there is more piping for your fmic kit that what is show, you won't be replacing the pipe where the bov is. the pipe from the turbo to the stock intercooler will still be used, as will the pipe with the bov on it. the 3 bits of pipe shown go from where the stock intercooler sits to the fmic, and then the other 2 go from the fmic to the side fire wall and the next from the side firewall to the pipe with the bov on it.

as for the bov, just get an adapter. the best plave to have a bov fitted is as close to the throttle body as possible. it keeps the air flowing in the one direction.

unless there is more piping for your fmic kit that what is show, you won't be replacing the pipe where the bov is. the pipe from the turbo to the stock intercooler will still be used, as will the pipe with the bov on it. the 3 bits of pipe shown go from where the stock intercooler sits to the fmic, and then the other 2 go from the fmic to the side fire wall and the next from the side firewall to the pipe with the bov on it.

as for the bov, just get an adapter. the best plave to have a bov fitted is as close to the throttle body as possible. it keeps the air flowing in the one direction.

what he said, u wont need to replace the pipe that the BOV is connected to ;)

unless there is more piping for your fmic kit that what is show, you won't be replacing the pipe where the bov is. the pipe from the turbo to the stock intercooler will still be used, as will the pipe with the bov on it. the 3 bits of pipe shown go from where the stock intercooler sits to the fmic, and then the other 2 go from the fmic to the side fire wall and the next from the side firewall to the pipe with the bov on it.

as for the bov, just get an adapter. the best plave to have a bov fitted is as close to the throttle body as possible. it keeps the air flowing in the one direction.

The pipe in the top of the front mount kit shown is the pipe that replaces the one my bov is on, and joins to the pipe off the throttle body. Correct me if Im wrong but pretty sure thats right. All the kits, ive seen, cheap ones included join there, run across the fan shroud area and down the side that currently has no pipes (right hand side of car). Which then joins onto one on the right hand side of cooler and the left hand side pipe joins to standard pipe which then runs to turbo??? Can anyone confirm this.?

The pipe in the top of the front mount kit shown is the pipe that replaces the one my bov is on, and joins to the pipe off the throttle body. Correct me if Im wrong but pretty sure thats right. All the kits, ive seen, cheap ones included join there, run across the fan shroud area and down the side that currently has no pipes (right hand side of car). Which then joins onto one on the right hand side of cooler and the left hand side pipe joins to standard pipe which then runs to turbo??? Can anyone confirm this.?

no you dont replace that bit.

The pipe in the top of the front mount kit shown is the pipe that replaces the one my bov is on, and joins to the pipe off the throttle body. Correct me if Im wrong but pretty sure thats right. All the kits, ive seen, cheap ones included join there, run across the fan shroud area and down the side that currently has no pipes (right hand side of car). Which then joins onto one on the right hand side of cooler and the left hand side pipe joins to standard pipe which then runs to turbo??? Can anyone confirm this.?

i'm assuming that you are talking about the pipe with the bracket on it? that bracket bolts to the drivers side of the motor near the injector rail. it runs from under the radiator hose on the drivers side to the start of the pipe with the bov on it. the pipe on the left of the cooler in the pic you posted runds from the drivers side of the cooler, through the holoe you have to cut in the side firewall, to the start of the pipe i just mentioned. the pipe on the right of the cooler runs from the where the stock cooler sits (so it joins the stock pipe that comes from the turbo) to the passenger side of the fmic.

The pipe in the top of the front mount kit shown is the pipe that replaces the one my bov is on, and joins to the pipe off the throttle body.

i think he is a bit confused as to what goes where.

either way, just get an adapter and mount the blitz bov on the stock bov's location.

i think he is a bit confused as to what goes where.

either way, just get an adapter and mount the blitz bov on the stock bov's location.

I think you are confused.. he is talking about the COLD pipe coming from the stock cooler, it has his Blitz BOV attached to it. THIS pipe will be replaced by the piping in the kit, he is asking if he should try put his Blitz BOV in the same spot that it currently is or put it on the crossover pipe where the stock BOV sits.

I've seen adaptors for RB20/25's are my local Malz (our version of Autobarn), bolts in the stock location and has a 90deg bend in it. My R2D2 was actually mounted inside the front right guard.. well out of the way of prying police eyes :action-smiley-069:

Edited by bubba

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
    • I'm almost at a point where I feel like changing the alternator. Need to check the stuff you mentioned first though.
×
×
  • Create New...