Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys,

I have talked to a tuner and he is happy to use either ECU for my engine, I know some people with haltechs and they have had some small problems but know noone with an Autronic to see how theirs runs and if there are any issues with them.

I am looking a these models E11V2 (Haltech) or SM4 (Autronic). I will be getting the intergrated boost modules and wideband O2 modules and external coils as well. Can people give me some informed real world expreience with both and their opinions please.

Cheers

Mushroom

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173334-which-ecu/
Share on other sites

As with all aftermarket computers the greatest dramas are usually the CAS interface and the software . I have used earlier versions of Haltech and Autronic and I found the Autronic software to be better . Not because pretty bar graphs were more user friendly but because air temperature/density compensation was more appropriate .

Before EFI Technology (Haltech) moved I used to drop in and get their blurb sheets and occasionally talk to them about connectivity to various OEM sensors . Their later ECU's were getting to the point of talking directly to Nissan 360 degree optical sensors (CAS) but the box had to have enough processing power and input/outputs to sequentially drive 6 coils and 6 injectors .

From past experience I liked Haltech because it was originally based around GM/Delco sensors which are (were anyway) cheap and plentiful because of the sheer volume of Commode Doors and Camiras . Actually getting the Haltech to talk to the engines sensors was usually pretty easy though they were not as concerned as I was/am about the benefits of sequential injection .

The Autronic SMC software I used did a far better job because you had all sorts of options such as charge temperature compensation from either water or air temp and once I got my head around the compensation from air temp bit and some sound advise from Allen Engineering In Mallala it worked really well . That was much of the secret to making a cold engine start/run/warm up perfectly every time . Its also the thing that makes a huge difference to timing compensation on load because charge temperature can be a lot of the reason why engines detonate . If you can be a little behind the detonation threshold and know the computer can be tuned to be safe but not overly retarded its about as good as it gets for a MAP based system - without knock sensor feedback that is .

BTW if you ever saw pics of Allen Engineerings dynocell you would have noticed a MAF or hotwire sensor being used to log airflow as part of the tuning process . That alone says it all about MAP sensors for me .

Hope this helps be research current systems/software , cheers A .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173334-which-ecu/#findComment-3186579
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok, can confirm.  if you use it like a normal human being in the real world, it works fine.  it only starts crossing wires if I keep using the fob over and over again in a very short period. So if I just chill the f**k out, it works 😂😂  
    • Im about to run a e30 mix of e85 and 98ron but i read that australian fuels specifically 98ron doesnt contain ethanol so on the calculator when it says pump ethanol percentage do i just put 0 or is this statement even true? And if it is true i assume i dont need to test any 98ron pumps.
    • So... the fob I had for my Skyline always had this issue where the "Unlock" button worked with no issues but the "Lock" button did nothing (and I always had to lock with the key) I thought I'd try resetting and pairing the key to the car today to see if that fixes the issue. I did the standard steps to program a key but realised my central locking was doing its own thing from time to time. 1st time: The driver-side doors would not lock or unlock when using the fob. No issues with the key. I figured it was the right time to change the battery in the fob so decided to go get one. When I went to the shop all doors locked and unlocked with the fob (while it had the old battery 🙃)   2nd time: When I locked the car, it would lock itself and immediately unlock. If I unlocked it, it would unlock and immediately lock.   3rd time:  After a bit of cursing and praying, that weird bug stopped. But then the rear passenger door started being a pain. It wouldn't really follow what the fob was asking it to do. Sometimes even using the key would not do what I wanted. So I'd lock the car with the key and all doors would lock, but the rear passenger lock didn't do anything at all. And then after a few moments, it would work again.   Is there a fuse that I should be looking at? or, is this one of those things where the door card needs to come off and some unit needs to be replaced? It just seems to happen from time to time and if I give her some space and come back later, there are no issues  🤦‍♂️ Also, should I try to program the fob again to the car just to see if that solves it?
    • One would assume a turbo is somewhere in its future down the line given they slap turbos on pretty much everything that arrives   
    • I’m guess it’ll end up with a turbo 
×
×
  • Create New...