Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Im in the process of planning some head work and looking at the available options in the way of a 1mm oversize valve set for my RB26 head and im hoping someone can shed some light on exactly what is available and from where. Ferera, Nitto and Naprec are the only brands I have heard of, are there any others worth looking at?

Also on this subject, what other components in the head will need to be changed to facilitate the larger valves?

Thanks :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173364-oversize-valve-selection-rb26dett/
Share on other sites

Hey dude i had my oversize valves made by manley in the US. they fabricate head components for muscle cars but they do custom orders. the valves have exelent alloy propertys and havent shown a sign of wearing, even using my 10.35mm lift cams. youll need to change the retainers, the springs, the lifters, the valve stems need to be complety reworked, and your head will need a nice port and polish job to suit the rest of the components. if you have any questions feel free to pm or mail me. ill do my best in helping you setup your head

Hi Nick

Give proengines a call he makes his own valves and gets some after market types as well check this out might explain more, http://proengines.com.au/perhead.html might help

Cheers Peter

Or talk to nas at thornleigh he did 1mm oversize valves for us, not sure of the brand of valves. Apart from the valve seat nothing else had to be changed for the valves, although we did get the head releived to clear the cams at the same time, and porting of the inlet (and a clean up on the zorst side)

Or talk to nas at thornleigh he did 1mm oversize valves for us, not sure of the brand of valves. Apart from the valve seat nothing else had to be changed for the valves, although we did get the head releived to clear the cams at the same time, and porting of the inlet (and a clean up on the zorst side)

Curious why they would port the inlet and only clean up the exhaust side, when it is common knowledge that the exhaust side is where rb's need the most work

Nick having used a few different brands over the years heres a little wrap up I have made

FERREA are far and away the best....

NAPREC are bigger being 1.5mm oversized but the trumpet angle is the same as standard, around 16 degrees, now this is far from optimal and something nissan could have done better, as the greater the angle, the more flow. They are still good though and do as well as the FERREA's in flow testing just a hassle to order them.

Haven't used Nitto or whatever, but I have used Ferrea's a few times and they are good quality at a good price and have 20 degree angle.

Manley are awesome but you can only get them in blanks, getting them to make customs for you is like having a baby, it takes a long time there is a lot of pain in the arse and crotch but you get a good result at the very end!!!

Hope this helps

I've currently got 2 heads here that I'm doing, one using 1.5mm o/s Naprec valves and one using 1mm o/s Ferreas and personally I would go for the Ferreas. They have a better finish, for example the raduising on the valve heads. The Naprec valves use a 6mm stem on both intake and exhaust which require custom exhaust guides while the Ferrea uses a 7mm exhaust stem, the same as standard so you don't require different guides or seals.

Another option is the Pep Pro valves, these are sold by Austral distributing. They are Taiwanese and are a top quality valve and a little cheaper than the others, definitely cheaper than a genuine Nissan valve. They are made by Shin Ichi which distributed in the US as SI Valves. I have used them in a lot of different engines without any failures.

After saying all that, the standard valves dont have issues. I have a head here that made over 700 RWHP with standard valves and they look like new.

  • 8 years later...

Hey dude i had my oversize valves made by manley in the US. they fabricate head components for muscle cars but they do custom orders. the valves have exelent alloy propertys and havent shown a sign of wearing, even using my 10.35mm lift cams. youll need to change the retainers, the springs, the lifters, the valve stems need to be complety reworked, and your head will need a nice port and polish job to suit the rest of the components. if you have any questions feel free to pm or mail me. ill do my best in helping you setup your head

what exactly has to be done to the valve stems? if they needed to be modified, i would think the valve keepers would need to be as well?

what exactly has to be done to the valve stems? if they needed to be modified, i would think the valve keepers would need to be as well?

Hey Tim,

Might be worth starting a new thread as this one is from 2007 and info is bound to be out of date now.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not R7R. Meant to type R&R, obviously enough.
    • Bugger "making it look stock". I put one conventional internally fused Hella relay behind each globe. I just pulled the plugs off the back of the globes and built new loom segments with male and female plug parts to match up to the original loom and the globe, and used the original power wires to each globe coming from the switch through the original loom plug to trigger the relays. Ran a big fat (also separately fused) power wire across the front of the car to feed all the relays. It's as ugly as f**k, but it is wedged down between the headlight and battery on the RHS and the airbox and headlight on the LHS, and no-one ever looks in my engine bay, and on the odd occasion that they do I simply give no f**ks for what they think. Fully reversible - not that you'd ever want to. For f**k's sake. It's a Skyline. They made million of the bloody things. We've been crashing them into roadside furniture for 30 years now. There is a negative side effect to putting relays on the headlights. The coil current is too little to properly clean the contacts in the switches and they get blacked up and you have to open them up every couple of years and clean them manually. I have 25 years of experience on this point.
    • I was poking through the R34 wiring diagrams vs R33 and noticed that the R34 has proper headlight relays while the R33 is like the R32 and sends full headlight power through the headlight switch. I'm not afraid of wiring but I really would like to do this in a way that looks OEM (clipping into open positions on the OEM relay box) and also unlike the factory wiring which interlocks the high beam and low beam on the halogen series 1 GTR headlights I want to make it such that turning on the high beams keeps the low beams on as well. Any advice on how to locate the specific connectors + crimp terminals + relays I need? I was thinking one NO relay for low beams and another for combined high + low running off the factory high beam headlight connector. I don't really want to splice into a crusty old probably discontinued factory harness so fully reversible is my goal here.
    • Pretty sure they run the same engine as the Q50 hybrid which specifies 95 RON.  I ran 98 in mine for a while, but it made no difference in performance or economy, so I have been using 95 for the last few years.  I have never hit 6.0L/100km, but have returned mid to high 6 on the highway.  Being a hybrid, fuel economy is a lot more dependant on how you drive it.  At 110km/h, mine never goes into EV mode on the highway, so returns closer to 7.5L/100. urban driving can return low 8s if you are careful or over 10 if you are a bit more enthusiastic on the throttle.
    • About a quarter of what you want to do. It's only R7R, not R&dismantle&replaceparts&reassemble&R. ? It is stock. I already told you, you will NOT have broken those. It's f**king 4th gear for Christ's sake. You just chipped the teeth off.
×
×
  • Create New...