Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I found this quote on bendix web site.

We recommend that rotors are machined only if they exhibit disc thickness variation (a shaking steering wheel and/or pulsating pedal on brake application), severe scoring, runout or heat checking.

I am going to change my rear brake pads soon. I am not sure if my disc need to machine or not?

How do I know if I need to machine the discs? Can I judge it by see it and touch? maybe shiny and smooth?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/17346-brake-disc-need-to-machine-or-not/
Share on other sites

my discs started to go on me recently, but a very good friend of mine who tunes skylines and other high performance vehicles strongly suggested that i replaced them not machined them, the discs start to get really shinny and have like a glossy look on them, i replaced mine with slightly larger ones.

i just changed all 4 pads today and had the disc machined also. the rears were very noticable as u could clearly see where the metal indicator was rubbin on the disc's......it was bumpy and uneven. i guess u can tell by lookin and rubbin ur fingers over it. the fronts werent as bad but i had em done anyways. i think they also help aviod that squeakin problem. its a cheap alternative but if u have the dosh change em like 2BNVS did.:D

My old stock rotors were machined twice before i replaced them. Machining them is fine until their is nothing left to be machined. If you replaced your rotors instead of machining them you'd be up for rotors once a year.

  • 5 years later...

Sorry to bump an old thread, but didn't want to start a new one.

My brakes have been shittin' me for the past few weeks.

After braking at speeds of above 60ish the brakes will make a sort of creaking noise and the steering wheel will kind of shudder a little with a bit of noise.

Am I right in assuming I definitely need to get my rotors machined?

Edited by ray32

Same boat as me, when hitting high revs going at 70 or 80 and trying to break, they dont make a noise but they start to shudder really bad, Need to bet them machined.

Got other pair of rotors sitting at home, theyre bigger, and dunno if they will fit.

:D

MRXTCZ

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ended up spending a WHOLE day yesterday cleaning and rearranging my shed.  Due to the aforementioned disorder, my shed is as cluttered and confused as my brain. Again, because of said disorder,  at any one time there are 5 projects on the go at once and because they're still on the go I don't put everything away so I can "get straight back to it" which rarely happens.. So anyway,  I bought a couple of cheap 2mx2m all steel "pallet racks" to put in my back shed.  The idea is to then take pretty much everything out of the main shed that isn't car related. Most of the garden and building stuff is now booted out to the back shed and onto to the shelves where they belong! There's still more rearranging and reallocating to do and it's still a bit busy in there but it's a massive improvement on how it was previously. I've discovered floor space I forgot I had...  For those that have fully dismantled a car before will understand just how much space it takes up!  Particularly panels, bumpers, engine/trans, etc.  I've got stuff hanging on every available wall to get it up off the floor!  This is not exciting content for a blog but has certainly made the shed feel like a more work ready space now!
    • Updating results from our ATR43SS-1 turbo in T3 .63, OEM bolt dump pattern. Not a big number but pretty sweet for a stock Rb20det. Car's managed to pull 220rwkws at 20psi, perfect boost control internally gated with EBC and excellent mid top end power band as they usually skydive after 5.5K. Usual bolt on supporting mods and inlet plenum and factory location exhaust manifold. Pump 98 fuel was used (Ron 93).     
    • Yeah, well, it's not as though anyone is ever going to buy one of those noisy f**kers and put it into a new installation when there are better pumps that are near silent for less money from Ti.
    • I'd suggest having the engine builder listen to it, especially if they assembled it, and minimise how much you run it in the meantime. It may have a serious issue like a big end bearing from the description and I assume the rebuild was not cheap
    • Quite right, typing without checking, it is an 023 which was effectively the replacement for 040 (not that I could find either of them on the Bosch motorsport AU site), and it has a mesh inlet at the bottom of the pump rather than a separate filter
×
×
  • Create New...