Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by Soulja

ahahahaha :bahaha: :bahaha: :bahaha: :bahaha:  

ok where should i start on this one;

ok i got it my vette is a 1988 model which can hold over 500rwhp on it rear (dana 44), people in the states have got up to 650 if im not wrong. now lets see the skyline we are talking about is a r_33 which is mid to late 90's and can hold around 500hp also how is that stronger than my vette? or other american cars?

I would like to see this guy race me in feb next yr (04), some how i dont think his 400 or 500hp skyline will come close my 500rwhp vette.

:) learn about car and then can i reply to this. if a rear-end in a 80's america car is as good or better than rear-end in a 90's skyline how then is the american car the pos? hmmm

after that who cars, its still an american piece of junk with shit quality controlled parts! :D

Latest HPI magazine tested the new C5 vette vs a R33 GTR and even tho the $95,000 C5 beat the $45,000 R33 by around 0.3 secs in a straight line when the corners came around say by by to the C5 in the rear vision mirror. And the ending statement was quite accurate it read something like this, 'While the GTR has been designed by engineers the Vette seems to have had more input into its design by the marketing department than any engineer, it looks the goods but cant delivery them'!!

Now back on topic.

Soulja, gearbox? Shift kit? What have they got to do with anything? I will give you the benefit of the doubt re: the brakes and assume you are talking about pads only. But you forgot to mention tyres.

Lepperfish, you shouldn't have to upgrade your fuel system until you get over 220rwkw or so. So if you get a 500hp turbo and can't afford the fuel system upgrade, just run it on lower boost until you can. EBC does wonders in this regard.

Originally posted by T0nyGTSt

Fuel rails can get expensive. Really I don't see the point of a fuel rail if it makes the whole thing more than the Sard/Nismo side feeds.

T.

Umm it really cost him SFA cause he made it from efi hose...Just t'd off the hose for ever injector etc etc, cost him SFA in the end...maybe $60 for the whole rail including fittings, and he used the stock FPR so thats not an issue..... Twas easy as to fit and works well!!

Soulja im afraid to say that i have never heard of anyone blowing up diffs in skylines..They might loose they LSD effect but i've never seen anyone blow one up..or 1/2 shafts for that matter either...Or gearbox's.... They are strong buggers, well over engineered :D

Originally posted by JimX

Soulja, gearbox? Shift kit? What have they got to do with anything? I will give you the benefit of the doubt re: the brakes and assume you are talking about pads only. But you forgot to mention tyres.

Lepperfish, you shouldn't have to upgrade your fuel system until you get over 220rwkw or so. So if you get a 500hp turbo and can't afford the fuel system upgrade, just run it on lower boost until you can. EBC does wonders in this regard.

Yeah im wanting to do the upgrade in one hit, so I can see maximum results, what do you think if this turbo ? New 2835 pro s with t 3 flange, will give 300rwkw at around 1.3 bar and costs $3100 new... How much boost on the standard rb25 engine ?

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by Soulja

Get the engine Professional Tune (by a tuning company) this will result in the engine being able to hold more hp (not to mention u will get extra hp and torque)

thats a gibbon!

do u seriously live in Australia?? professional tuning company?? hehe havent heard it said like that before!

Guest robertr

Ask GCG for their best price on a brand new Garrett GT40R with .82 AR rear and fit a external wastegate. Ask Brett there about his GT40R .82 with internal wastegate that will bolt straight in. He said they are coming in in around 2 weeks. Then email me your price and I'll see if I can beat that for you.

[email protected]

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I believe there was a similar one posted by @duggyphresh. They were re-routing their battery positive cable in the way I am also trying to achieve. Sorry, I’m new to this forum, so was a bit late to the party by a few months and so reignited the old thread, as I wanted to know how they got on with doing it.
    • Wasn't there a thread on this very subject just a few weeks ago?
    • Hi all! Looking to relocate the battery to the trunk of an R34 GTT. I want to do it using as many stock GTR components as I can (including the harness protectors from the 34 GTR that run underneath along the chassis to the engine bay). So far I’ve purchased the battery tray from a 33 GTR, as the captive weld nuts are already there just asking to be used. There is also the slight issue of now having to relocate the ABS/TC/Fuel Pump Control ECU, which in GTT’s sits right above where the battery will then sit on the tray. Has anyone already achieved this, and if you have any pics that you wouldn’t mind sharing? It would be great to see how others have done it and where you put them, as there are countless holes in the parcel shelf panel to potentially use. Just trying to get some ideas bounced around, and to help uncover any potential problems I may encounter by  my choice of location. TIA for any help!
    • Brand was ard.   I also threw a brand new battery at it and beefed up the wire from the alternator to battery and added an extra earthing point from the battery 
    • Evening all,       I'm replacing some bolts on my RB25 with probolt Australia bolts.       Does anyone know the following, m5 m6 etc 10mm 20mm etc       Coil cover   Cam covers   Plazamaman fuel rail   Front cover (timing cover)   Etc   Any help would be awesome   Or any lists anywhere
×
×
  • Create New...