Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

cant the time VCT enables/disables be altered without an aftermarket computer (other than afc4) if so how? cheers

never heard of the AFC4 (apexi item?).

you can enable it and disable it, by unplugging the solenoid. that's how you determine the most optimal rpm point for it to engage, by doing two dyno runs one with and one without.

i'm pretty sure you will need an aftermarket something to control when the vct/vvt/nvcs (whatever you want to call it) is activated/deactivated, whether it be a full replacement ecu or a little piggyback controller.

stock; the vct turns on just above idle rpm and turns off around ~5000rpm'ish. don't quote me exactly on that though.

the power fc guys require the fc datalogit (laptop program) to be able to access the function.

i know that doesn't exactly answer your questions, but hopefully it'll provide a little grounds for discussion.

never heard of the AFC4 (apexi item?).

you can enable it and disable it, by unplugging the solenoid. that's how you determine the most optimal rpm point for it to engage, by doing two dyno runs one with and one without.

i'm pretty sure you will need an aftermarket something to control when the vct/vvt/nvcs (whatever you want to call it) is activated/deactivated, whether it be a full replacement ecu or a little piggyback controller.

stock; the vct turns on just above idle rpm and turns off around ~5000rpm'ish. don't quote me exactly on that though.

the power fc guys require the fc datalogit (laptop program) to be able to access the function.

i know that doesn't exactly answer your questions, but hopefully it'll provide a little grounds for discussion.

Cheers, Yeah meant the AFC Neo, Apexi Air Flow Convertor 'neo', it calls itself number 4 (upgraded from a SAFC2 because i thaught it had VCT altering functions)

Yeah i understand what your saying about how to decide when to activate the VCT, i just now need to figure out how to make it automatically engage at that point.

Ill properly talk to my tuner about it when i get the car ready, just waiting on damn extractors, and loom

Edited by SKiT_R31

is 6200 the rev limiter for the 25de ??? coz thats when mine bounces back.. i thought it was 7500 ??

the engine needs wayy more torque is crap at speeds goin from 5th to 4th just to speed up and usuing 3rd to hold power... anything under 3000rpm is terrible

mine sees 7000 regularly at QR, it tends to taper off around 6800ish anyway

4500-6500 is usually about the thick of it for me, very thick and chunky through there.

i agree, could do with abit of torque, but at the end of the day it's a 2500cc motor. you'll need cubes for torque.

the rb is a fairly revvy motor, and i personally think that's what makes it fun.

with regards to 'under 3000rpm is terrible'

- the high gearing and ratios have something to do with it, especially when you are just cruising around

- i have no dramas getting a decent progressive punch 1st and 2nd on the motorkhana and skidpan.

ah k well maybey because mine is in a R31 the tacho reading might be wrong.. yeah true with the gearing but similar stuff at 100kays... 5th to 3rd.. again..

im doin RB30DE very soon...

wat i was going to ask is...

what series head do i have its a 93 RB25DE the afm has 4 wires if that helps is that S1 or S2 ? yes it has VCT...

i want to buy camshafts of Nengun i belive its cheaper than just jap... which ones are good for midrange power ? keeping in mind it will be for RB30DE..

My limiter with a stock 25DE ecu, was at exactly 6800rpm, now have a Mines ECU with no limiter... - goign to get somthing like a jaycar and set it at ~ 7000-7200rpm (or whever power drops off, dont want to take it much further than that though, it is a 30 block after all)

are you goign to fully balence it, maybe get a new harmonic balencer? dont forget 30e's have bad harmonic issues in mid 7k rev range

being 93 i would have said S1, but 4 AFM wires!?

Edited by SKiT_R31

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not R7R. Meant to type R&R, obviously enough.
    • Bugger "making it look stock". I put one conventional internally fused Hella relay behind each globe. I just pulled the plugs off the back of the globes and built new loom segments with male and female plug parts to match up to the original loom and the globe, and used the original power wires to each globe coming from the switch through the original loom plug to trigger the relays. Ran a big fat (also separately fused) power wire across the front of the car to feed all the relays. It's as ugly as f**k, but it is wedged down between the headlight and battery on the RHS and the airbox and headlight on the LHS, and no-one ever looks in my engine bay, and on the odd occasion that they do I simply give no f**ks for what they think. Fully reversible - not that you'd ever want to. For f**k's sake. It's a Skyline. They made million of the bloody things. We've been crashing them into roadside furniture for 30 years now. There is a negative side effect to putting relays on the headlights. The coil current is too little to properly clean the contacts in the switches and they get blacked up and you have to open them up every couple of years and clean them manually. I have 25 years of experience on this point.
    • I was poking through the R34 wiring diagrams vs R33 and noticed that the R34 has proper headlight relays while the R33 is like the R32 and sends full headlight power through the headlight switch. I'm not afraid of wiring but I really would like to do this in a way that looks OEM (clipping into open positions on the OEM relay box) and also unlike the factory wiring which interlocks the high beam and low beam on the halogen series 1 GTR headlights I want to make it such that turning on the high beams keeps the low beams on as well. Any advice on how to locate the specific connectors + crimp terminals + relays I need? I was thinking one NO relay for low beams and another for combined high + low running off the factory high beam headlight connector. I don't really want to splice into a crusty old probably discontinued factory harness so fully reversible is my goal here.
    • Pretty sure they run the same engine as the Q50 hybrid which specifies 95 RON.  I ran 98 in mine for a while, but it made no difference in performance or economy, so I have been using 95 for the last few years.  I have never hit 6.0L/100km, but have returned mid to high 6 on the highway.  Being a hybrid, fuel economy is a lot more dependant on how you drive it.  At 110km/h, mine never goes into EV mode on the highway, so returns closer to 7.5L/100. urban driving can return low 8s if you are careful or over 10 if you are a bit more enthusiastic on the throttle.
    • About a quarter of what you want to do. It's only R7R, not R&dismantle&replaceparts&reassemble&R. ? It is stock. I already told you, you will NOT have broken those. It's f**king 4th gear for Christ's sake. You just chipped the teeth off.
×
×
  • Create New...