Picking The Right Stall Converter

[sxc33]

Hello all, I will be ordering a shift kit on Monday, and have decided that I want to get a hi stall converter to go with it.

By the time I get my hands on one and get it put in, I am reasonably expecting something in the area of 180 – 190rwkws.

After having looked thru a bit of info about them, I understand that the procedure of picking a torque converter is related to where the engine is making peak torque in the rev range. Not having had my car on the dyno to see exactly where its making its peak torque does make it a little difficult to work out what stall speed I should be looking at for the converter. I notice that the majority of people on here have ones rated 2800 – 3000rpm.

Is it safe to simply pick one off the shelf, even though one rated at 3000rpm might not always be the best real world application? I have read that I should be looking at one that is rated at around 500rpm lower than where peak torque is generated. Using the 3000rpm example, would that be best coupled to an engine that is producing peak torque at 3500rpm?

My intention is once the car is dyno'd and I know where it's doing what, then I can work out what the converter should be rated at. The car is to remain completely drive able – I drive it 400klms a week – so I am obviously not gonna be chasing up something rated at 5500rpm lol.

I am basically looking out for any advice anyone can give about this. I would also like to know about other people's set ups. I have referred a fair bit to the auto power and ¼ times thread that I have found on here, but it mainly refers to numbers, not set up details.

Also, what is the best way of measuring this 'stall' – Flash or True stall? Not planning on having a transbrake, would I be correct that Flash stall would be what I should be asking about?

I appreciate any and all comments or advice anyone has to offer (this is the 1^st auto 'performance' car I have owned, so I am like a sponge at the moment – I am soaking everything up lol)

Cheers,

Chris

Edited June 23, 2007 by sxc33

[sxc33]

Bump.

Or should i just grab a 3000 to 3500 jobbie to keep it reasonably driveable?

[dangerman4]

hey chap

r33 stall convertors are awesome little things.

they still lock up when not under heavy load while the old school chev / ford etc convertors wont.

im running the 2800 / 3000 rpm convertor in my 33 yet the car will happily go up hills at 1600 rpm in drive.

my old chev 3k high stall needed to be doing 2750rpm to move, let alone going up hills.

so in answer to your question contact mike at MV automatics over here in Adelaide and he will organise one for you.

the highest they can go with the stock convertor housing is the 2800 / 3000 rpm that i run, and this will be perfect for you.

if you want to go higher for some reason then you will have to get a smaller convertor 4 cylnder nissan i think, and then that can be modded up higher around the 4000rpm mark but the cost is 2.5 times more then the 2800 convertor.

i hope that makes sence.

[sxc33]

hey chap

r33 stall convertors are awesome little things.

they still lock up when not under heavy load while the old school chev / ford etc convertors wont.

im running the 2800 / 3000 rpm convertor in my 33 yet the car will happily go up hills at 1600 rpm in drive.

my old chev 3k high stall needed to be doing 2750rpm to move, let alone going up hills.

so in answer to your question contact mike at MV automatics over here in Adelaide and he will organise one for you.

the highest they can go with the stock convertor housing is the 2800 / 3000 rpm that i run, and this will be perfect for you.

if you want to go higher for some reason then you will have to get a smaller convertor 4 cylnder nissan i think, and then that can be modded up higher around the 4000rpm mark but the cost is 2.5 times more then the 2800 convertor.

i hope that makes sence.

Cheers for that mate. Maybe a 3500 is not gonna happen, so a 3000 it prob will be.

My big concern was wether it would need a piss load of revs to just navigate over speed bumps or a slight incline etc.

Have u noticed any difference in fuel economy and what revs it needs to keep a steady 100klms even?

[dangerman4]

Cheers for that mate. Maybe a 3500 is not gonna happen, so a 3000 it prob will be.

My big concern was wether it would need a piss load of revs to just navigate over speed bumps or a slight incline etc.

Have u noticed any difference in fuel economy and what revs it needs to keep a steady 100klms even?

As i mentioned above, the high stall will still lock up and drive from around 1200 rpm and above like a standard convertor, its only when you load it up on the brakes or on a big hill that it will go up to stall speed of 3k etc.

normal driving you wont even know its there.

I highly recomend a 2800 from MV Auto's, and im running over 300 rwkws everyday in my wifes daily shopping bus

[sxc33]

As i mentioned above, the high stall will still lock up and drive from around 1200 rpm and above like a standard convertor, its only when you load it up on the brakes or on a big hill that it will go up to stall speed of 3k etc.

normal driving you wont even know its there.

I highly recomend a 2800 from MV Auto's, and im running over 300 rwkws everyday in my wifes daily shopping bus

Cool. Was seriously worried about drivability of em eh, but i was gonna do it either way.

With regard to putting it in, did u do it yourself? I got a shift on my loungeroom floor that i am gonna put in, but i am thinking a stally is a job for the pros.

[dangerman4]

Cool. Was seriously worried about drivability of em eh, but i was gonna do it either way.

With regard to putting it in, did u do it yourself? I got a shift on my loungeroom floor that i am gonna put in, but i am thinking a stally is a job for the pros.

If your keen to install the shift kit then the High Stall is simple.

put your car on a hoist or up on stands, then unbolt the trans and drag it out.

un bolt the standard convertor off the engine, and bolt the new one on.

roll your trans on its back undo the pan and install the shift kit then bolt it back together.

with a dozen beers it shouldnt take more then 5 / 6 hours job done.

failing that just get a local trans place to do it for you.

prob around the $300 mark

[sxc33]

Stally aint gonna happen for a month or so (fingers crossed i get a new job and get paid out a SH!T load of holiday pay). But i can access to a hoist anytime i want (the stage 2 kit is going on sat), so i am reckon i should give it a shot!

Cheers for all your info dude, much apprecitated!!!

Chris

[Abo Bob]

I had the same one. The flash speed in turbo converters should be higher than n/a ones I think Mike said. No noticeable change in fuel economy, it was shit before and shit after.