Jump to content
SAU Community

Headlights On 350gt

WazR32GTSt
 Share

Recommended Posts

rs73 Grand Master

rs73

Posted
Posted

After swapping my rims I am thinking of restoring the HID myself too. The balast plug was cut pretty close to the plug itself so i am wondering if I should find certain type of wire/cable to lengthening the wire? e.g. I heard of people saying 8 gauge, 12 gauge, what are those sizes? What wire is save enough for HID wiring? I don't want to accidentally getting a wire too thin that just overheats and melted or catch fire.

  • Replies 140
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

rs73 Grand Master

rs73

Posted
Posted

I didn't thought of it. Must be loosing some more dead brain cells at that time...

I was thinking to access the lights by removing the front rims and open the wheel well plastic shroud lining. Rather than dropping the bumper. I think that's easier?

Anyhow, what wires size should I use for 12V DC (the one going into the balast, not the ignitor after the balast) if I want to extend the wiring?

PS: have you checked your email, Chris?

FlyingEL Rising Star

FlyingEL

Posted
Posted
I didn't thought of it. Must be loosing some more dead brain cells at that time...

I was thinking to access the lights by removing the front rims and open the wheel well plastic shroud lining. Rather than dropping the bumper. I think that's easier?

Anyhow, what wires size should I use for 12V DC (the one going into the balast, not the ignitor after the balast) if I want to extend the wiring?

PS: have you checked your email, Chris?

Hei, I have the same problem, the wire was cut to short to the plug. It's easy, use a small flat head screw driver, dig out the white plastic piece. Then using 2 small flat head screw driver, One to push up the locking mechanism, one to push out the female pins. As for me, I just cut off the wire where they joint up the halogen bulb and solder on the clean out female pins. Wha la, you have the original plug on the wire that looks untouch. As for the purple rubber thingy, just push back to fill up the hole in the plug.

Thanks CHRIST :thumbsup: for the info on the blown fuse, I accidentally reverse polarity on one of my lamp. Blown one of the 15 amp fuse, which can be found behind the battery.

  • 5 months later...
Frank350GT Rising Star

Frank350GT

Posted
Posted
Hei, I have the same problem, the wire was cut to short to the plug. It's easy, use a small flat head screw driver, dig out the white plastic piece. Then using 2 small flat head screw driver, One to push up the locking mechanism, one to push out the female pins. As for me, I just cut off the wire where they joint up the halogen bulb and solder on the clean out female pins. Wha la, you have the original plug on the wire that looks untouch. As for the purple rubber thingy, just push back to fill up the hole in the plug.

Thanks CHRIST :) for the info on the blown fuse, I accidentally reverse polarity on one of my lamp. Blown one of the 15 amp fuse, which can be found behind the battery.

Hi mate.

If you need help. I am more than happy to give my hand. have done a lot with my head light, include put back Xenon. upgrade to 06, quad HID etc......

drop me a message if you need me

Frank

russky Collaborator

russky

Posted
Posted (edited)

Looks like I have missed Chris for any time soon for lights conversion. Tried Just Jap - apparently they don't do it... Doesn't make sense as they get cars complied....

Anyone know any other places around Sydney? Local electrician, that no one has been to, is not an option - ones I tried didn't have a clue that you had to either take off the bumper or access from underneath. That is worrying to me.

Edited by russky
Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted

you haven't missed me

I'm still here, but I cannot get into the workshop I use here. the neighbor has a LOT of crap parked in front of the main entry.

that said - yes I can do it BUT I will only do it IF you have the OEM items and not a retro fit kit.

as for the drivers lock - as I said earlier in the week - I CANNOT turn around a part ex japan that quick. I ordered 3 left side actuators and not a right side one.

rs73 Grand Master

rs73

Posted
Posted

next time u down here, chris, what's a good bluetooth setup and rear cam? but i think i've run out of input channel though....

unless there's a way that the rear cam 'takes over' the screen whenever it's in reverse (powered by reverse light +12v)

russky Collaborator

russky

Posted
Posted
you haven't missed me

I'm still here, but I cannot get into the workshop I use here. the neighbor has a LOT of crap parked in front of the main entry.

that said - yes I can do it BUT I will only do it IF you have the OEM items and not a retro fit kit.

as for the drivers lock - as I said earlier in the week - I CANNOT turn around a part ex japan that quick. I ordered 3 left side actuators and not a right side one.

The Kit I have is the Bosch from the group buy.

As I said, I am in no rush and more than happy to wait for an actuator and the next time that you will come down here (presumably gone by the time actuator would arrive and assuming both instances will occur within this year).

  • 4 years later...
Obyboby Newbie

Obyboby

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey everyone, I'm new here.

I have a friend of mine who owns a Nissan Skyline 350 GT and has just purchased a new set of headlights.

Unfortunately, he didn't pay enough attention while buying them and purchased a kit that requires the stock HID bulbs in order to work.

Now he has the headlights fitted in the car with no low beam bulbs at all - bad choice, I know. I'm trying to retrieve the stock HID "socket" that was originally taken off before the car was shipped to Australia.. but it seems kind of hard to find it online. Have you got any idea on where I can buy one?

Thanks a lot.

Btw here's a pic of what I need: that sort of socket with metal covered wires that goes from the HID ballast (which I already have taken off the stock headlights) to the D2S bulbs (which I also have, xenon, 6000K).

post-328-1205233698.jpg

ps I know the thread is really old but it's the right discussion so I'm posting here. :D

Edited by Obyboby
  • 5 years later...
v35gt_2003 Rookie

v35gt_2003

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

I'm pretty shocking mechanically.

I purchased the following headlights for my 2003 350gt v35, the item description says I may need an adaptor kit. I feel the main light bulb is xenon but the strip light isn't? No clue. Just wandering if someone is kind enough to advise what I need to do to get these in?! Im in Melbourne and would pay someone for their time for an install.. but I would like to know what else I may need to purchase..

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F322416869577

Any guidance much appreciated. 

IMG_20190904_204401.jpg

IMG_20190904_204410.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • r32-25t
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By r32-25t · Posted

      I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
    • Kinkstaah
      R34 GT > GTT compatibilities

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Ye, in terms of bolting up the "Conversion" from a GT to a GTT is effectively "Use GTT parts for everything" Except the subframe itself, because you won't want a HICAS/4WS subframe. Remember your ABS system will be different too, thanks to GT being the S15 3 sensor system, instead of the R34 4 sensor system for wheel speed. I do not know how people get this to work given R34 diffs do not have a provision for an ABS sensor (they are on the tone wheels of the axles). I assume***** people use S15 gear/R34NA forever when they realize this - Or they convert it to a rear diff/axles that are R33 style which I presume has the singular speed sensor on the diff itself, but then you have to wire it all in and...and... and...
    • GTSBoy
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Foreshadowing was never so easy.
    • GTSBoy
      Rear hub bolt torque r34

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The ones in brackets are the first stages of tightening. I usually aim for the middle of the range. They give a range because it's actually not that critical to hit exactly the right bolt tension. Enough is enough, and too much is too much, and the range given is inside that range. Half of the bolts in the suspension are problematic for putting a torque wrench on anyway, so just get done up to mechanic tight  and spanner checked a week later.
×
×
  • Create New...