Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After swapping my rims I am thinking of restoring the HID myself too. The balast plug was cut pretty close to the plug itself so i am wondering if I should find certain type of wire/cable to lengthening the wire? e.g. I heard of people saying 8 gauge, 12 gauge, what are those sizes? What wire is save enough for HID wiring? I don't want to accidentally getting a wire too thin that just overheats and melted or catch fire.

  • Replies 140
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I didn't thought of it. Must be loosing some more dead brain cells at that time...

I was thinking to access the lights by removing the front rims and open the wheel well plastic shroud lining. Rather than dropping the bumper. I think that's easier?

Anyhow, what wires size should I use for 12V DC (the one going into the balast, not the ignitor after the balast) if I want to extend the wiring?

PS: have you checked your email, Chris?

I didn't thought of it. Must be loosing some more dead brain cells at that time...

I was thinking to access the lights by removing the front rims and open the wheel well plastic shroud lining. Rather than dropping the bumper. I think that's easier?

Anyhow, what wires size should I use for 12V DC (the one going into the balast, not the ignitor after the balast) if I want to extend the wiring?

PS: have you checked your email, Chris?

Hei, I have the same problem, the wire was cut to short to the plug. It's easy, use a small flat head screw driver, dig out the white plastic piece. Then using 2 small flat head screw driver, One to push up the locking mechanism, one to push out the female pins. As for me, I just cut off the wire where they joint up the halogen bulb and solder on the clean out female pins. Wha la, you have the original plug on the wire that looks untouch. As for the purple rubber thingy, just push back to fill up the hole in the plug.

Thanks CHRIST :thumbsup: for the info on the blown fuse, I accidentally reverse polarity on one of my lamp. Blown one of the 15 amp fuse, which can be found behind the battery.

  • 5 months later...
Hei, I have the same problem, the wire was cut to short to the plug. It's easy, use a small flat head screw driver, dig out the white plastic piece. Then using 2 small flat head screw driver, One to push up the locking mechanism, one to push out the female pins. As for me, I just cut off the wire where they joint up the halogen bulb and solder on the clean out female pins. Wha la, you have the original plug on the wire that looks untouch. As for the purple rubber thingy, just push back to fill up the hole in the plug.

Thanks CHRIST :) for the info on the blown fuse, I accidentally reverse polarity on one of my lamp. Blown one of the 15 amp fuse, which can be found behind the battery.

Hi mate.

If you need help. I am more than happy to give my hand. have done a lot with my head light, include put back Xenon. upgrade to 06, quad HID etc......

drop me a message if you need me

Frank

Looks like I have missed Chris for any time soon for lights conversion. Tried Just Jap - apparently they don't do it... Doesn't make sense as they get cars complied....

Anyone know any other places around Sydney? Local electrician, that no one has been to, is not an option - ones I tried didn't have a clue that you had to either take off the bumper or access from underneath. That is worrying to me.

Edited by russky

you haven't missed me

I'm still here, but I cannot get into the workshop I use here. the neighbor has a LOT of crap parked in front of the main entry.

that said - yes I can do it BUT I will only do it IF you have the OEM items and not a retro fit kit.

as for the drivers lock - as I said earlier in the week - I CANNOT turn around a part ex japan that quick. I ordered 3 left side actuators and not a right side one.

next time u down here, chris, what's a good bluetooth setup and rear cam? but i think i've run out of input channel though....

unless there's a way that the rear cam 'takes over' the screen whenever it's in reverse (powered by reverse light +12v)

you haven't missed me

I'm still here, but I cannot get into the workshop I use here. the neighbor has a LOT of crap parked in front of the main entry.

that said - yes I can do it BUT I will only do it IF you have the OEM items and not a retro fit kit.

as for the drivers lock - as I said earlier in the week - I CANNOT turn around a part ex japan that quick. I ordered 3 left side actuators and not a right side one.

The Kit I have is the Bosch from the group buy.

As I said, I am in no rush and more than happy to wait for an actuator and the next time that you will come down here (presumably gone by the time actuator would arrive and assuming both instances will occur within this year).

  • 4 years later...

Hey everyone, I'm new here.

I have a friend of mine who owns a Nissan Skyline 350 GT and has just purchased a new set of headlights.

Unfortunately, he didn't pay enough attention while buying them and purchased a kit that requires the stock HID bulbs in order to work.

Now he has the headlights fitted in the car with no low beam bulbs at all - bad choice, I know. I'm trying to retrieve the stock HID "socket" that was originally taken off before the car was shipped to Australia.. but it seems kind of hard to find it online. Have you got any idea on where I can buy one?

Thanks a lot.

Btw here's a pic of what I need: that sort of socket with metal covered wires that goes from the HID ballast (which I already have taken off the stock headlights) to the D2S bulbs (which I also have, xenon, 6000K).

post-328-1205233698.jpg

ps I know the thread is really old but it's the right discussion so I'm posting here. :D

Edited by Obyboby
  • 5 years later...

Hi guys,

I'm pretty shocking mechanically.

I purchased the following headlights for my 2003 350gt v35, the item description says I may need an adaptor kit. I feel the main light bulb is xenon but the strip light isn't? No clue. Just wandering if someone is kind enough to advise what I need to do to get these in?! Im in Melbourne and would pay someone for their time for an install.. but I would like to know what else I may need to purchase..

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F322416869577

Any guidance much appreciated. 

IMG_20190904_204401.jpg

IMG_20190904_204410.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Uncle Duncan Yeap, FI Interchiller  Works well, normal IAT's cruising with the WTA only went from 50°c+ to 25-30°c with the interchiller  Before, when on it hard, the IAT would see 80-90°c, now, the highest has been was around 38°c IIRC IAT is measured under the blower hat I recommend it for the street or strip where your only on it hard for 10 or so seconds, but it wouldn't be efficient for sustained track use as it would heat soak from the AC turning off or whatever it does during WOT to protect the compressor It really needs the AC running for it to not heat soak and keep the WTA coolant chilled My WTA coolant temps when just cruising is around 2°c
    • Hey Mark...sorry to interrupt your career change to hair dressing... but...did you ever fit the interchiller to the commodore, and if so how was it? And, who made it?
    • I've been pondering this, I really enjoy the convertible thing, for me, it's like riding a motorbike, without all the issue of riding a motorbike, mainly, my old sore arthritic joints getting beaten up, and, being able to do it in shorts and a T-shirt and not needing a helmet and all the other gear required, especially like wearing jackets and pants in the summer, or needing 6 layers of cloths in the winter, or not having wet weather gear handy when your 100km away from home on the bike when it decides to start raining As for the hard top and its Coupe look, whilst I do lose all that open top feeling that I really enjoy, from my experience with the NB with a detachable hard top, the cabin is a much nicer place to be, the difference in noise for one, a hard top quietens down the interior, alot, with the soft top up or down it's pretty noisy, which, after 5 or so hours, can get tiring But, as you stated, the detachable hard top totally changes the look of the car, in a really good way, and for me, the look of a detachable hard top is so much better than the PRHT which looks more like a after thought with its weird bulbous rear roof line For me, the minimal effort of putting in on, or storing it after removing it, is well worth the time and effort for the look alone And yes, I'm sure the next owner will be grateful for it as well.......  
    • I get into huffs with people when I suggest the MX5 looks so much better as a coupe than it does as convertible. Pretty sure I don't prefer the convertible version of anything. Good job on the hardtop! The next buyer will appreciate.
    • IMO wrap does have its uses, but like you said, quality wrap, and professional installation, would probably cost want a quality paint job does, but, the paint, if maintained, is basically for life, and much easier to touch up if required  In other news: it's pissing down here, with thunder, lightning and only some small hail "at this stage", luckily all "my" cars are undercover  I've also been contacted by a guy in Newcastle about the SS, he said he will come down next weekend for a look, we'll see how that transpires I guess 🫰
×
×
  • Create New...