Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello :)

I seem to be having a fuse blowing problem... my amp, whenever turned on, will blow my inline fuse... one of the long cylindrical gold tipped ones...

the last thing i want to do is send my amp off for repair, cause it wont be back for some time, most defenately not before SNS...

I took the RCAs out thinking it may have been a shitty signal... that was one fuse...

I took the power out to the subs out, thinking it may have been stripped and earthing somewhere... that was two fuses...

so its still blowing fuses with just positive, negative and a remote signal...

I only have one fuse left, and im starting to think its almost certainly the amp acting up :thumbsup: which i really dont want to believe...

I also have it sitting on my lap, and i can't see any problems with it... I have seen quite a few amps, good and bad to know what to look for, and i cant find anything wrong here... I did find a tiny little switch that is name SW1 and has an on and off feature... im assuming this is for the crossover and gain controls...

in the mean time, im going to go hook up another amp, if i can find a 20 amp fuse...

Specs:

Amp: Earthquake PHD5000W 3kwRMS amp

Fuses: 60 amp x4 blown :wacko: 1 left

Wiring: 8 Gauge straight from battery, through a fuse, and neg back to battery again (couldn't find any problems with the wiring)

extra notes: When all are together, pow, neg, and remote, there is a high pitch whining noise, which gains amplitude for a little while, then fizzes out as the fuse melts... its ghey :O

so yeah... anyone have any ideas... anyone.... anyone??? :( probably shouldn't have asked on a saturday night at 7:45...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173918-blowing-fuses/
Share on other sites

try a fatter gauge wire? say a 4 gauge?

all the times ive installed systems and blown fuses was cause i didnt have the negative wire from the amp grounded correctly

checked that... its been working for some time now, and this happened out of nowhere... and like i said, its a 60 amp fuse, so it doesn't just pop willy nilly, you can hear too much going through it, heating up, then you get to watch it melt :P

and i dont think a larger gauge wire will help...

ill go double check all the wiring though, just for you :)

anyone else got any ideas i may have missed? im not sending it off til after SNS... it ay not work, but it gunna look like it can :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173918-blowing-fuses/#findComment-3195096
Share on other sites

Hey there,

I'd throw a post up on caraudioaustralia forums, they may be able to help further.

Do you have a R33 (battery in boot) so you connected the ground back to the battery? What are the spec's on the amp (watts RMS @ what ohm rating) and how many subs are you running, and the ohm rating of each sub.

I would have thought both your wiring and fuse rating is insufficient for this amp anyways. Would have thought you would need a proper ANL type fuse (i thinks its called that) of at least over 100amps to get the most out of this amp, and you'd be best to go at least 4ga (even for a short run), 2ga even better.

Does the fuse blow when you turn the amp on but have it on very low volume, or no sound at all, or do you crank the system and watch the fuse melt??

Fixxxer

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173918-blowing-fuses/#findComment-3196258
Share on other sites

the fuse melts without a signal going to the amp... as soon as the amp is activated, it melts... it never used to, hence why i have come to the conclusion that this is not normal :)

people tend to over compensate wiring, i dont know why... 2ga is over kill... 4ga might be a bit better, but its got 8 gauge plugs in it, fitting 4ga would be rather difficult, though i may do it down the road when i come to a boot isntall that is more then temporary...

yes, R33... and its back on the battery cause it is pretty much the closest, and best ground point...

the amp is 3000wattsrms at 4ohm mono i believe, the subs are 1000watts rms each...

I think 100 amps is a bit much also, there is a higher chance of damage to the amp if that were to happen...

though i will make a thread on CAA ;) thanks for your advice...

anyone else??? :( please

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173918-blowing-fuses/#findComment-3196322
Share on other sites

I love TLA's :)

yeah i posted it up there yesterday... they were all very kind in telling me that my wiring isn't big enough, and that my grounds weren't good enough... but other then that, no real help...

i'll do my last test tonight hopefully, then send it off for repairs...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173918-blowing-fuses/#findComment-3197894
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Rotisserie is fully assembled apart from centre connector which obviously isn't required until the car is on it. It packs away fairly neatly and doesn't take up too much room. (Now that I actually have some room after my clean up!) Overall very happy with the quality of it.  Assembly was a piece of piss.  The only thing I didn't like was that the pins that lock the rotation lock wheels in place were a bit of a dick in a bucket scenario. It allowed the arms to rotate a significant amount even when locked in place.  To fix that i measured up the hole and went and grabbed a couple of 18mm fully threaded bolts and a thread tap to suit. I ran the tap through top and bottom so it was threaded both ends.  Then just threaded the bolt through both sides.  It has made a massive difference which hopefully you can tell in the before and after video how much difference it made. 20250207_161431.mp4   20250207_161431.mp4 Hopefully back working on the car over the next few weeks.   20250207_162801.mp4
    • I think my main complaint with your idea is that there is a veneer of idealism spread across it. You want the simple numbers to make it easier, but all they will do is make it easier for someone to come to the wrong conclusion because the fine details will kick them in the nuts. As it is right now, the tiny bit of arithmetic is NOT the obstacle to understanding what will fit and what will not fit. The reality of trying it is what determines whether it will fit. If you had a "standard rule" that R34 GTT guards have that magic 100mm space from the hub face to whichever side you were worried about, and someone said "excellent, this wheel is only 98mm in that direction, I'll just go spend $4k on them and jam them on my sick ride".....they would just as likely find out that the "standard rule" is not true because the rear subframe is offset to one side by a fairly typical (but variable) 8mm on their car and they only have 92mm on one side and 108 on the other.
    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
×
×
  • Create New...