Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello all you experienced Skyline drivers.

I am new to the scene and am after a clean, reliable Skyline for around $11,000 after haggling.

Can this be done?

I have been considering my options:

1. Get a R32 GTS-T

2. Get a R33 GTS

3. Get a R33 GTS-T

This question has been posed to you guys because you would have a better idea on what I can expect from each category with the money I am prepared to part with. Some questions on my mind:

- What are the chances on a 1990 R32 GTS-T being reliable these days?

- Can I get a nice R33 GTS in that price range?

- I realise $11,000 is low for a R33 GTS-T, so are cars in that price range likely to be thrased, unreliable lemons?

I guess I am trying to ask what option you would go with if you had $11,000 for a Skyline.

I greatly appreciate any replies.

Steve,

Queensland.

Edited by Hydroxinol

33 gtst's are cheap at the moment.. you shoulkd have no problem getting one for 11. i did, and that was like 5 months ago. so as far as your 3 choices, i would go with that personally.

but someone who likes 32's over 33's will point you that way.

11g will see you out with a nice 32 with some goodies, a decent Series 1 33. and if you want a NON turbo then you would probably be able to score a Series 2 33.

it all comes down to your personal taste. just make sure you get it all tested and checked before you buy.

also keep in mind your insurance , transfer stuff and everything, cause that can be like upto 2k on top of the car once you get it (especially if your on P's)

good luck with the hunting.. be patient and make sure you settle for something your satified with.

welcome to the forums

jake

Edited by jake33

You can get an average R33 Gtst series 1 for $11k with > 100,000km. But you might get lucky and pick up something with a few less k's or one that is in pretty good nick.

No way you will get a nice series II R33 Gtst for $11k. IMO, series II look better and have some minor improvements over the series I.

Thanks for the reply Jake33,

Have you had any problems with your r33 gts-t?

Also, any known problems with it when you bought it?

no worries.

nah no real problems or concerns with it. nothing out of the ordinary, or nothing that you woundn't expect from a 12 year old car

have a quick browse through this:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=113261

should hopefully give you some useful info.

- What are the chances on a 1990 R32 GTS-T being reliable these days?

not much . engine problems and rust a prevalent in older models , even 93s these days

- Can I get a nice R33 GTS in that price range?

definetly

- I realise $11,000 is low for a R33 GTS-T, so are cars in that price range likely to be thrased, unreliable lemons?

thrashed , damaged , rusty or mechanical problems

you get what you pay for

Thanks for giving it to me straight 32vspecII. I guess I will have to be cautious.

I would prefer an R33 GTS-T, but am unsure as to the chances of finding one in good condition within my price range. I am interested in hearing from anyone who was in a similar situation to mine.

- What are the chances on a 1990 R32 GTS-T being reliable these days?

not much . engine problems and rust a prevalent in older models , even 93s these days

Wow, thats a bit of a generalisation..... rb20's are a solid engine, and even if boosted etc they can take it and as long as they are serviced etc, they are reliable. After testing a car you will know what condition it is in and they dont all have rust. I have got 3 mates and myself that have or have had 32's and none had rust.

Edited by r32line

Generally you pay for what you get. If I had 11 K then I would first work out whether the car needs to be turbo or NA, if turbo then I would go for R32 GTST... maybe if I searched hard enough and was prepared to wait a few months Id be able to get R33 S1 for 11 K... A clean R33 S2 is at least 14-15 K...

Thanks for the replies guys, I really appreciate it.

Your friendly advice reflects on how great this Forum is, especially for new comers like me.

I will keep my eye out on the Classifieds of this forums, and the usuals like carsales, and carpoint.

Any other places I should look?

Hopefully I will become a Skyline driver in the not too distant future. ;)

I've had my r32 for over 3 years now and done about 110,000kms in it. Its up to 180,000kms or so now.

Mechanically, i haven't had a major problem. Í've had to replace the clutch and the fuel pump. And the timing belt at 100,000kms. That's it.

So IMHO that's pretty good reliability.

My car has a small patch of rust in the rear arches, been there for 2 years and hasn't go worse, an easy fix if i cared enough to get it dealt with/had the money to burn.

So really you should just choose which model you prefer, they are going to be pretty similar otherwise.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...