Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here goes for the second time..........................just spent an hour and lost the first post while upoading photos

Time to sell as i never drive it anymore, 170000kms on the clock and ive done 7 of those over the last 3 years that ive owned the car. I really dont like the idea of selling her but could really use the money elsewhere.

Ill try an describe it the best i can but ive done so much to it im sure ill miss some things,

Pearl paint with airbrushed bonnet, tinted windows

Lowered front and back with new KYB shocks, whiteline swaybar up front and nolothane bushes

Gtst diff with 4.3xx ratio

Hicas lock bar with all hicas lines removed

RB20det gearbox with exedy heavy duty clutch, new master and slave cylinder, braided clutch line

Walbro pump (255ltr/hr), gtr injectors (440cc)

Garrett GT3071R turbo on a monsta performance stainless highmount manifold and external 35mm wastegate with 1 bar spring

Braided water and oil lines to suit

3" turbo back exhaust

Exhaust wrap on manifold and dump pipe and garrett turbo bag on exhaust housing

Reco radiator with 14" davies craig fan for ac

K&N filter mounted under gaurd with 4" stainless pipework

Hybrid 600*300*76 intercooler with stainless pipework

Splitfire coils, turbosmart dual port bov plummed back, catch can

Wolf 3d v4 ecu running ebc with handcontroller mounted on dash

Dvd-cd-mp3 player with fold out 7" screen, new speakers front and rear, 2 amps, 12" sub in custom box that fits under parcel tray

Retrimmed interior light tan/cream swede

Gizmo shift light with pre shift, autometer boost gauge

This car has all been engineered with a RB20det in it, since then i swapped the RB20 for a R32 RB25. The engineer can update the report, the car came from factory with a RB25 so said it wont be a problem. Before putting the RB25 in i installed a gates racing timing belt and a pair of RB20det cams.

This head will bolt straight to a RB30 bottom end which i also have that will be included with the sale if wanted.

Im asking $14000 for the car and it has rego till december, if you have any questions please just ask

Photos will be up 5 mins, just want to save this first.

post-21010-1182663626_thumb.jpg

post-21010-1182663722_thumb.jpg

post-21010-1182663824_thumb.jpg

post-21010-1182663883_thumb.jpg

post-21010-1182664581_thumb.jpg

post-21010-1182664609_thumb.jpg

Edited by grim32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173984-1991-rb25-r32-4-door/
Share on other sites

Yeah thats the dyno with the RB25 although the RB20 made the same power with a bit more boost.

The RB25 seems fine, no noises or smoke. Im quite happy for you to do a comp test on it.

I only picked up the 3 litre bottom end cause it was cheap then had plans to later build a RB30DET for it but just lost interest.

Will also consider swap for a N15 pulsar plus cash if anyone is interested.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there it is trickier. Ecutek seems to be one of those closed ecosystems where everyone password protects their tunes which means I either choose a tuner and can't change from them and can't make any changes myself for any reason, or I have to buy the tuning software (about $4k) and then get someone to tune from scratch (which is not simple with all the multi dimensional tables these days). Once you buy about 300 "flash points" per ECU you can get it tuned and add their "RaceROM" function which hacks extra functionality like launch control onto the ECU, and also makes extra data available for logging over CAN Not sure what I'll do there yet; I'm tempted to use one of the overseas shops that does billions of remote tunes of the platform instead of starting from scratch locally, a lot can be done online these days.
    • Can I log IAT eh? Well, can now So next thing was looking at data logging. Not straight forward because none of the motorsport displays have cracked the nissan/inifinti CAN and ECU based displays don't do g logging, lap timing, predictive laps etc.  So, I bought an Ecutek dongle from Tunehouse (Oz distributor). Even without a tune onboard that allows display and logging of about 50 parameters via Android (and presumably iOS) app. Approx 600 for the bluetooth + Usb version That gives me (pretty ugly but) functional dash display on Android And logging of these parameters I'll play around a bit over the break, but at least now I can make sure I have oil pressure when I get to some track testing.  
    • I don't know what globes/headlight connector they run, but I'd be looking for a female adapter to plug into the existing headlight on one side. Something like this https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/256017245989 Then I'd use a pair of single input, double output relays (one for low, one for high), mount them in a spare space in the fuse box if you want to to look more original (and be easier to maintain). Then 2 new power sources from the main stud in the fuse box via a fuse to each relay. Low from the headlight adapter pin triggers low relay and high from the high headlight adapter pin triggers high and low. Earth the relays and new headlight sockets and off you go. Because it triggers off the original headlight all of the dipping/hi on/high flash all still works
    • I reached 10 posts and wanted to make my build thread too but still can't add pictures to posts so I have no idea how it works 😂
×
×
  • Create New...