Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK,

I've just spent the last 2 1/2 hours searching the net for info on what type of oil to put in my 2 way diff..

Every site says that the type of oil can dramatically change the effectivness of a 2 way diff.

What I'm trying to find out is if it's possible to lossen the diff by putting in a lighter or heavier weight oil. And if so, which one?

Apart from that, I dare say the oil has never been changed, so it'll need a fresh drink anyway.

Does anyone know?

Anyone..... :D

J

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/17413-2-way-diff-oil-which-one/
Share on other sites

Guys,

Thanks heaps for the replies - really apprieciated.

But one thing to remember is that my 2 way diff is totally different to the normal Nissan LSD, and going from what I have read, need particular types of oil for them to work correctly.

I understand that certain types of oils work really good in the factory Nissan LSD, but has anyone had experiance with different types of oils in a 2 way diff?

Cheers

J

Guest robertr

Yeah sorry, I forgot to mention that my diff is a Nismo 9 plate and I gave it an oil change when I bought it. It clunked like hell around corners. really didnt want to spin one wheel slower!. anyways Hills Motorsports Castle Hill Sydney told me about the "trick" with the Nissan diff additive. It reduced the plate noise by half.

Hope this helps

OK guys, got an update on this.

Apparently the oil that they use in these diffs is "LS90", not sure what brand it is, but I think it's shell. Then (as robertr said above) you pop down to your local Nissan dealer and ask for a tube of the diff additive that they use on the Nissan Patrols - retails for about $65-75....

That should fix it up.

I'll give it a try in a week or two.

OH - and big thumbs up to Mark at Hills MotorSports for helping with this. He seems like a great guy and really knows his stuff.

J

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah one of the first things I out in when I started having catch can filling up issues. Still prefer to empty 1-2 times a track day rather than every session
    • You'll find this link is probably more useful  Performance Turbochargers - Garrett - G GT GTX GTW Series Turbo TBG G35 1150 map may not even get added to my list depending on how it looks, the G35 1050 already is a mixed bag for making the numbers you would expect from the compressor map due to mismatch - I don't know how another 10lb/min of compressor flow is going to make that any better.   I've left out others for similar reasons as it's already getting quite big.   In terms of Precision, provide me with legit compressor maps for them and I'll do my thing   I'll add some more of the newer Xona Rotor options are they're pretty boss, I'd take a 68mm Xona over a G35 "1150" any day of the week - or Precision for that matter.
    • Ahh got it. Well maybe install a drain for the catch can somewhere down low and accessible like a wheel well too....
    • Before you blow your car up, have you checked you've made all the correct modifications to the wiring if you're still using the RB20DE loom?   Some things to look at: The pin used for the map sensor on the RB25DET, is the same pin used on the RB20DE for the Ring Gear Crankshaft Position Sensor, no idea what you've got it plugged into now. The turbo pressure control valve solenoid you're talking about on the RB25DET, the same pin is used for the Variable Air Intake Control Valve on the RB20DE.   The factory manual has the wiring pinouts in it for you to check everything. It also has the diagnostics process to read codes out. In addition, there's a great table that shows what sensors and what actuators not functioning will relate to which signals. And Nissan confirm the as everyone else has from experience, the Solenoid being disconnected won't cause a fuel cut. However, the turbo pressure sensor being missing / wrong, WILL cause a fuel cut. https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Skyline%2FR34-Workshop-Manual-English.pdf
    • I've been hunting info on the G Series II - this is best I have found so far(Link below). Still waiting on the G35-1150 comp map, kind of very keen   So how do we go about getting precision on that little table of yours ?   https://turbosbytm.com/sites/default/files/product/technical-info/Garrett-G-Series-II-Product_Flyer 25 30 35_1.pdf  
×
×
  • Create New...