Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

(edit)

Head is off. Bores measured at close to 83mm. Bores seem to be in quite good condition.

Please any of the RB guru's I'm looking for any recommendations for the rebuild to suit drift applications with regular street use.. The engine was run with no oil to the extent of the exhaust cam ceasing.

At this stage I'm looking at-

Fresh rebuilt stock de-burred head

Retaining the east bear 1.8mm HG

Power enterprises F1 black metal bottom end bearings

100k service kit

Rear oil seal

Oil restricter/s (what size/type?)

Bolts/studs - which of these need replacing?

Edited by Drift_Limo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/174226-rb20-not-sure-anymore/
Share on other sites

seriously why would u want to? I mean the cyliners are 78mm vs the 86mm (or something way off as im not familiar with rb25 specs)

The cylinder size difference, let alone the valve sizing (29 vs 36?) would be enough to make anyone not want to do it. Boost is a measure of resistance to airflow so if u have smaller ports/valves then u need to cram more air in (more boost) to get the same number as u would using a 25 head.

If i were u id be slapping the 25 head on and enjoy a lower boost level for the same power u had before.

Cubes and i had our heads mildly ported before doing the 3lt and i can tell u we dont have to push as much air in as some to make some good power.

Well I'm hoping for 82mm Tomei pistons, which should mean a full RB24 kit..? Will be pulling down the bottom end in the next few days. What is the easiest way to identify RB26 rods and crank?

Was a big surprise, as the auction details from j-spec said the car was fitted with an RB25 engine and transmission!

Edited by Drift_Limo
Boost is a measure of resistance to airflow so if u have smaller ports/valves then u need to cram more air in (more boost) to get the same number as u would using a 25 head.

But something to remember. Is whilst you say small valves, for the 2L displacement they are not a abd thing. Consider the swept volume of each cylinder, then compare it to the surface area of inlet valve and then exhaust valve. The ratio of valve area to displacement for an RB20 is better then an SR20, and not far off an RB26. When you consider the valve size of an RB25/26 head on an RB30 bottom end then the ratio is worse then it is on an RB20, its about the same as the SR20.

So obviouly more displacement and valve area means more power...but looking at it in isolation as a ratio, the valves in the RB20 arent really small for their application.

but looking at it in isolation as a ratio, the valves in the RB20 arent really small for their application.

Are the 20 valves undersized for the 25 though...? An extra 25% of displacement would mean a need for larger valves. I dont see any advantage of running a 20t head on a 2.5 or 3lt block, but ppl still think its a good idea?

Why do u need custom 86mm pistons ? :(

Also I got an RB20 in car right now. I also got and RB24S seating in the garage. I was thinking about putting a 25DE/DET head on and turboing it.

Hmmm, but it wasn't really rev happy before. Like 6000rpm redline. Don't know if the head and electronic fuel/ignition management would help with higher redline :)http://www.answers.com/topic/nissan-rb-engine

Thanks! ))

Ok will measure stroke tomorrow, also dropping the sump and have a mechanic friend inspecting what bearings will need replacing.

Will Nismo bearings suit my application? RB20 or RB26 bearings?

What bolts should be replaced?

Edited by Drift_Limo

Throw King bimetals at it.

There's a lot of highpowered rb25/26 and 30's getting around with absolutely no issues.

They are a tad more expensive but worth it.

http://www.kingbearings.com/

As its a stroker of sorts it you may be worth while picking up a set of cheap gtr cams for $50-$100 and have Tighe Cams in QLD regrind them for a hair over $200 a pair.

You get around 8.5mm lift and 252-254 duration. So nice and mild.

Well the pistons are cast and seem to be of Nissan origin. Only visible markings on them were '08U'

Crown to deck height was around 53.5mm (ruler measurement so not exact on this)

Markings on rods were 20-3 05U41-1

Crank '08U'

Edited by Drift_Limo
Throw King bimetals at it.

There's a lot of highpowered rb25/26 and 30's getting around with absolutely no issues.

They are a tad more expensive but worth it.

http://www.kingbearings.com/

As its a stroker of sorts it you may be worth while picking up a set of cheap gtr cams for $50-$100 and have Tighe Cams in QLD regrind them for a hair over $200 a pair.

You get around 8.5mm lift and 252-254 duration. So nice and mild.

Hi

I can also confirm that.

KING's make some quallity parts, and your right in saying there is a lot of RB's running them with huge power.

Very popular with the Rb30s, I had them in my forged RB30 bottom end and they were fine! Available at a good price from VPW, Melbourne.

Good luck with the project.

Thanks,

Abu

83mm bores with std pistons??????? Strange, perhaps they are the Toyota pistons that ppl speak of being able to use?!?!?!

An option, maybe havent considered....

If you are going to be retaining the 2530 you run (memory?) then i would grab a std short motor and just rebuild your head in your own time. Maybe play with porting and some cheap cam grinds then when the heads ready throw it on and retune with new head gasket. The std bottom end will put up with the power ad boost you will run with a 2530

Cars that only owe you 2k to get back to the track are far more fun then ones that cost far more to repair and keep you away from the track

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I love fastener joints, the price difference between them and joints like Bunnings or Super Cheap is amazing, and they either have exactly what you want, or they can get it to quick They have even given me some for free when I only needed a couple of specific size In saying this, I have paid premium for fasteners from Bunnings if they have the sizes I need, but only for convenience really, as my local is only 10 minutes away, the Sushi joint near them is also a consideration  How's the weather Matt? Stay safe mate
    • Wideband is worth setting up if only for tuning purposes. I would not mess with the ignition system unless there's a misfire. HKS crank trigger is popular out here for the relatively easily sourced Denso crank sensor, not a bad idea to install as well regardless of power level on a standalone. Boost leak test is worth thinking about. Oil pressure sensor tied to a fuel cut isn't a bad idea either. Getting the tune figured out is a good idea. Without putting eyes on it and getting under it there's no way for us to tell you exactly what it needs but most likely you're down to the last 10% that will make a big, big difference in how happy you are with the car.
    • Doing a refresh of my 33 and can see a few websites stating they sell the entire main carpet for our cars, but they all have generic photos which is fine, i understand they are custom made to order.  Just seeing if anyone has got it done or had any experience with this, as i would only want to do it if the fit and finish was as good as oem https://carmatsdirect.com.au/products/moulded-carpet-or-vinyl-for-nissan-skyline-r33-1993-1998-coupe https://knoxautocarpets.com.au/moulded-carpets/nissan/skyline/skyline-r-33-1993-1998/
    • Any plans for E85? If so, add flex fuel sensor.   I'd probably add in the sensors I mentioned above if the Link will support using them for engine protection. With water pressure, you need to be able to effectively set it that "If temp > X, and pressure = atmospheric, shutdown" as at running temp, you should be able to read pressure in the cooling system. If pressure suddenly disappears, it means the water went some where, and this is a quicker reaction than waiting on water temp to go up (Which, can take a little longer than you'd like, considering it now has to wait for hot air to heat it up) Oil pressure, Oil temp, both would be on my list too if you're looking to add sensors. Wideband O2. And at least one EGT sensor. If you're feeling deluxe, put in individual runner EGTs. Single EGT sensor is more so forget about a specific number, get used to "What is normal EGTs", and then keep an eye on it, if it starts going away from "normal" it's a sign something is wrong (Also, things like the tune can still start going out of spec, but EGTs may not show it, for example one injector starts running leaning, so ECU richens everything up, now 5 out of 6 cylinders are rich, and running cool, with one cylinder lean and running hotter, so it's not perfect) Then there is your other things to look at non sensor related, but you may have already done, or have underway, and that would be things like building a sump for more oil, and better oil control under high G-Forces (Cornering, brakes, acceleration). Basically, the above is worth looking/thinking about, if the ECU can do protective stuff with it, and you continue to use it how you are (Drive it to the track, thrash it, drive home, repeat once every 3 to 4 months)
    • Can also confirm these work a treat for most balljoints and bushes. If you have access to a big rattle gun, they make the job so much easier and quicker, compared to using a socket wrench or shifter on the c-clamp 👍
×
×
  • Create New...