Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

now i have a problem people every time i drive into my driveway i hear a metal clunk like somthing is loose with the right wheel but i have inspected any loose parts i.e checked the suspension, bushes are near new, wheel bearing i think seems to be ok, and the brakes are tight so is the wheel nuts and im not sure if it would be the steering? or the ball joint?

also happens when u try reverse parking and u move forward then u revers and then press the brake it makes a clunk?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/174239-load-clunk-at-the-front-of-the-car/
Share on other sites

Check your brake pads and see if the shims are all there.Should be 2 little ones on inner and outer with 2 large ones on each pad backing.The clunk you hear could be the pad moving back and forth .

check the nut that attached the rack to chassi, mine was loose and for ages i could hear a light glunk and knock over unever road on the left front. It fooled me becasue the nut is on the left hand side of the rack in the hr31's.

I have this exact problem... pedders didnt find shit, they went on about some bush which they 'modified' but the noise is still there.

It happens mostly on directional change as he mentioned. I get it when im reversing out of my driveway... then when i go to take off forward it normally happens. ALso when i am reversing, turning and braking it also happens.

yeh i know i just found out yesterday they couldnt find it also but they mentioned my big pivot behing the brake sits on is moving but there not 100% so im stuck i dont know wat to do now i dont want to spend money on changing things that are okay....

I've got the same problem too! I had a abit of a geezzer and there's abit of play between the rack end and the steering arm

I don't know if this is what's causing the clunk as I only had a really half arsed look.

i had a sound in the car which sounded clunky as i ran over a bump or something it sounded like it was in the front but people outside the car (as i was pulling up outside work one day) said it sounded like rear... for a long time before that i thought it was front strut damage or something to do with suspension, but in the end it was my center cap on rear wheel piece over my volk racing wheels... didnt matter how much i tightened it, it still clunked. ended up putting a piece of rubber under the cap... stopped it...

i had the exact same problem mate. mine would clunk when braking for speed bumps, turning into my driveway, when braking heavily etc. i fixed the problem by using a breaker bar to tighten my sway bar 'D' bush mounts and crossmember bolts. the problem was fixed!

i had tried installing newer bushes for the swaybar link bits and new rose jointed castor rods also but they didnt help.

I have the exact same issue.

Especially the reversing and then braking issue.

My wheel alignment guy found the problem.

My front upper control arm bush was shot, allowing the control arm to float backwards and forwards into the car body.

He noticed it via the tiny amount of rust where it was hitting and slight scraping/ding.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Cheapest option, find a NEO head. Put in good springs, decent cams, and send it to the moon. I rev mine to 8600RPM, gets me about 232km/h down the main straight at SMSP bouncing off the limiter in 4th. I've never dared to grab 5th 🥲
    • Gday mate, Personally in my car i run 450kw in an s2 rb25 so also hydraulic lifters and have always run it to 7500 RPM and using some baby 256 poncams with new but stock springs and retainers. While i cant speak on any experience with solid lifters i personally have had no issues with my hydraulic lifters which were just cleaned and set in an oil bath before assembly over 7 years ago. Over 8k RPM is cool IMO and if you are using the stock gearbox or just a box with longer ratios the higher rpm certainly could aid to maintain boost into the next gear as that was always something i struggled with as i have a 3582r also but a hypergear equivalent could aid that issue. In summary i would make a choice on the cam you want to use first then decide which springs and retainers work best with it and then you can toss up if you really need the solid lifters, if the car is mainly street i would learn towards keeping the hydraulic lifters as when installed properly and nothing too hektik going on around them they do the trick.  
    • Yucky. Things haven't gotten any better though. Now you have Emerson and Honeywell pushing these massive DCS/Scada things with proprietary hardware. They're not a PLC, they're not a computer, they're a...distibuted PLCish/DCSish monster of thing, that only they can program because they make the barriers to entry for anyone else so fricking high. And their developers are all located in the third/developing world (and India, in case anyone does not include that place in that category) and there are terrible failings of the ESl variety, of the care and common sense variety, and f**king forget about Functional Safety. Not a one of them has any idea what it means to comply with an IEC 615xx series standard.
    • All of the ECU grounds are to the chassis, the IGN grounds are to the cylinder head and i believe all the OEM body harness are left in original locations, im trying to work out if i can tell if the sensor voltage itself is losing any power to it from the very low ECU voltage. But yeah a manual pressure gauge will help in picking which path to actually chase. Also please dont bully my wiring plan i never designed it to be universally understood hopefully it still can make sense to you, im a wiring virgin.  1 thing i have just noticed the pressure sensor in question relays both pressure and temperature, the temperature reading holds nice and steady despite the low ecu voltage but the pressure reading is the one that jumps around alot so maybe it is really a pressure issue? wiring plan.xlsx
×
×
  • Create New...