Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well, the time has come to finally pick up my 2000 Series 2 Stagea tomorrow (Weds 27th). I will be flying into Melb (from Adel) in the morning and finding my way to Bayswater (apparently approx an hour from the Melb airport! That's one heck of a cab fare :( - anyone want to make some cab money? :D ) Then if everything goes well with the exchange, I will start my drive back to Adel asap. Just thought I'd share what this car is to me.

It'll be my first

- Import vehicle

- Wagon

- Six cylinder vehicle

- AWD vehicle

- Turbocharged vehicle (woot!)

I've owned. Needless to say I'm quite the excited little boy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/174285-plenty-of-firsts/
Share on other sites

Well, the time has come to finally pick up my 2000 Series 2 Stagea tomorrow (Weds 27th). I will be flying into Melb (from Adel) in the morning and finding my way to Bayswater (apparently approx an hour from the Melb airport! That's one heck of a cab fare :) - anyone want to make some cab money? :blush: ) Then if everything goes well with the exchange, I will start my drive back to Adel asap. Just thought I'd share what this car is to me.

It'll be my first

- Import vehicle

- Wagon

- Six cylinder vehicle

- AWD vehicle

- Turbocharged vehicle (woot!)

I've owned. Needless to say I'm quite the excited little boy.

Looks schmick Nick, pack the camera, enjoy the ride & avoid the boys in blue.

Cheers GW

If you do it in an hour from the airport you'll be lucky! I'd offer to give you a lift, but am out of Melbourne at the moment. It will probably be $100+ for the cab fare..

What is the address in bayswater? You might be better (ie much cheaper) catching the bus from the airport to town, then they train out to bayswater (if it is anywhere near the station). It won't be too much slower, and will be a lot lot cheaper!!

Thanks guys for the kind words.

It's on Scoresby Rd, Bayswater. Apparently I might be able to catch a bus from the airport to Box Hill then cab it from there. Otherwise the cab fare will cost me nearly double my airfare! Now that'd suck!

It's got a Dayz front bar but i think that's about it, the rest I think is pretty much stock.

I'll most definitely be keeping within the speed limits, I've heard about the boys in blue from Vic!

If you do it in an hour from the airport you'll be lucky! I'd offer to give you a lift, but am out of Melbourne at the moment. It will probably be $100+ for the cab fare..

What is the address in bayswater? You might be better (ie much cheaper) catching the bus from the airport to town, then they train out to bayswater (if it is anywhere near the station). It won't be too much slower, and will be a lot lot cheaper!!

Appreciate the offer, thanks.

It's actually quite close to the train station so I might be able to train it there if I catch a bus to the city. Thanks for the info :)

yep - do the airport express bus to "southern cross" railway station (ie spencer st), then catch a train to the right station. You might even be able to get an express train! The bus costs about $15 and the train ticket will be something like $6 - much better than a cab charge!

yep - do the airport express bus to "southern cross" railway station (ie spencer st), then catch a train to the right station. You might even be able to get an express train! The bus costs about $15 and the train ticket will be something like $6 - much better than a cab charge!

Yeah sounds good, thanks mate!

if i was free, id take ya. but im at work. its like 5 mins from my house.

and its not that far from the station, maybe 10mins.

but the weather is shit today so i wouldnt walk.

if you get the train, get on the BELGRAVE line, and get off at bayswater.

how was your experience with them?

i wont say on a public forum coz im not allowed to

but looks like youve picked up a winner.

nice.

Everytime i go to Melbourne it rains on my ass... :laughing-smiley-014:

Caught a bus shuttle from airport to the city and train to Bayswater with no problems, took 1 1/2 hrs and $21 all up!

I must say, I love driving again. It's an incredible car to say the least, unbelievable amount of control and traction in the wet. I spent most of the trip back hovering around 120km/h with the occasional squirt and LOVED it!! It was like there wasn't any rain at all.

Unfortunately, after about 30mins driving, the 4WD light on the dash started flashing (the one under the fuel gauge) so I pulled over and checked the Attessa fluid reservoir (it's the one to the right panel when you open the boot right?) which was low so I got some Castrol Transmax Z from the local Repco of whatever town I was in, and topped it up. Seemed allright when I restarted the car but light came on again after about 5-10mins. Discovered everytime I turn the engine off, it's allright for about that time, then comes back on. At about the same time I noticed a SLIGHT juddering whenever I stayed at a constant speed between 60-90km/h. Anything above that it was fine. If i give it a bit of pedal it goes away, it's only when I start coasting and stay between those speeds.

Would the fact that the dealer chucked on 17's on the car instead of the standard 16's caused the attessa system to chuck a wobbly? Would a tyre allignment and balance help?

The juddering is not there when the 4WD light isn't flashing, so it must be connected right? Any help would be appreciated!

JVP - Thanks for the offer too mate, appreciated!

The first thing you need to do is make 100% sure all the tyres are the same profile. Different rolling diameters will cause an upset with the 4WD system but it has a built in allowance for about 5-10% difference I think.

Next - how low was the fluid? There is a requirement to bleed any air out of the system if there is the slightest chance of any getting in there.

There are 2 bleed points too - one at the pump above the diff and one at the transfer case at the back near the top.

Whilst you are under there it would be a good thing to check out the condition of the driveshafts to the diffs and wheels. The wheel shafts are just like any other CV, but the front driveshaft should have almost NO play in it, unlike the rear that will (unless you have an LSD)

I hope some of this helps

The Stink

The first thing you need to do is make 100% sure all the tyres are the same profile. Different rolling diameters will cause an upset with the 4WD system but it has a built in allowance for about 5-10% difference I think.

Next - how low was the fluid? There is a requirement to bleed any air out of the system if there is the slightest chance of any getting in there.

There are 2 bleed points too - one at the pump above the diff and one at the transfer case at the back near the top.

Whilst you are under there it would be a good thing to check out the condition of the driveshafts to the diffs and wheels. The wheel shafts are just like any other CV, but the front driveshaft should have almost NO play in it, unlike the rear that will (unless you have an LSD)

I hope some of this helps

The Stink

Ahh ok, I've just had a look, fronts are Bridgestone B500si 215/55/R17 and rears are same but 50 series. I need to change to the same? Would swaping the fronts and rears do anything? Shame, cause tyres still have decent thread in them!

What are chances I've done some damage driving it 750kms with different profiles? arghh!

Edited by webng
Ahh ok, I've just had a look, fronts are Bridgestone B500si 215/55/R17 and rears are same but 50 series. I need to change to the same? Would swaping the fronts and rears do anything? Shame, cause tyres still have decent thread in them!

What are chances I've done some damage driving it 750kms with different profiles? arghh!

Well, its my understanding that you would have put some extra wear on the clutch packs of the transfer case but that would be about it (anyone - feel free to shoot me down in flames here) as the attessa system would have attempted to correct the fact that the rears were doing higher revs than the fronts due to smaller circumference. Swapping them over will cause exactly the same problem so that won't help you out any.

The clutch packs are likely to have a bit of chatter on them now, but a complete fluid change and the correct size tyres should see things right hopefully. You will only need to change 2 tyres if oney is a bit tight, as it usually is when getting a new toy :(

You may even get a trade in on the old ones if they are still OK.

Probably didn't help that the fronts (55 series) were 38psi and rears (50 series) were 28psi too... :( When the dealer replaced the 16's with 17's in their workshop, silly me assumed they would check tyre pressure.

Considering it seems to fix itself everytime i restart the engine, I'm hoping it hasn't stuffed the Attessa system up. I'll be getting new tyres this weekend I think. Hmm... should I keep the 50's or 55's... decisions!

Oh yeah, it is a Dayz edition, got the badge at the rear, but apart from the front bar, I don't know what else it has that's different.

sa-sau cruise on sunday, Burnside Town Hall (greenhill / portrush rds) at 12.30pm......

might see you there :(

no, the attessa wont be damaged as yet, but just letting you know to be aware, thats all.

sa-sau cruise on sunday, Burnside Town Hall (greenhill / portrush rds) at 12.30pm......

might see you there :(

no, the attessa wont be damaged as yet, but just letting you know to be aware, thats all.

Will definitely try to make it, cheers!

from the pic you posted you have Dayz side "steps" as well, show us more pics and we will tell you more!

Will do when I get home from work. The badge at the back says "Dayz Neo Series"

It's got the cool little touch screen that controls the air-con and cd player, kept be amused on the drive back as i tried to work out if there was a way of reducing the burn in my eyeballs from the brightness! got it in the end... as i was pulling up into adelaide ofcourse! :(

attessa costs 5k to fix.

get tyres exactly the same diameter........... definately.

well done on picking up your new hobby tho !

Do you guys think it'll be okay to put the current 215/50's in the front and get new 225/50's for the rear? The tyre width shouldn't matter to the rolling diameter should it?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
×
×
  • Create New...