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Well, the time has come to finally pick up my 2000 Series 2 Stagea tomorrow (Weds 27th). I will be flying into Melb (from Adel) in the morning and finding my way to Bayswater (apparently approx an hour from the Melb airport! That's one heck of a cab fare :( - anyone want to make some cab money? :D ) Then if everything goes well with the exchange, I will start my drive back to Adel asap. Just thought I'd share what this car is to me.

It'll be my first

- Import vehicle

- Wagon

- Six cylinder vehicle

- AWD vehicle

- Turbocharged vehicle (woot!)

I've owned. Needless to say I'm quite the excited little boy.

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Well, the time has come to finally pick up my 2000 Series 2 Stagea tomorrow (Weds 27th). I will be flying into Melb (from Adel) in the morning and finding my way to Bayswater (apparently approx an hour from the Melb airport! That's one heck of a cab fare :) - anyone want to make some cab money? :blush: ) Then if everything goes well with the exchange, I will start my drive back to Adel asap. Just thought I'd share what this car is to me.

It'll be my first

- Import vehicle

- Wagon

- Six cylinder vehicle

- AWD vehicle

- Turbocharged vehicle (woot!)

I've owned. Needless to say I'm quite the excited little boy.

Looks schmick Nick, pack the camera, enjoy the ride & avoid the boys in blue.

Cheers GW

If you do it in an hour from the airport you'll be lucky! I'd offer to give you a lift, but am out of Melbourne at the moment. It will probably be $100+ for the cab fare..

What is the address in bayswater? You might be better (ie much cheaper) catching the bus from the airport to town, then they train out to bayswater (if it is anywhere near the station). It won't be too much slower, and will be a lot lot cheaper!!

Thanks guys for the kind words.

It's on Scoresby Rd, Bayswater. Apparently I might be able to catch a bus from the airport to Box Hill then cab it from there. Otherwise the cab fare will cost me nearly double my airfare! Now that'd suck!

It's got a Dayz front bar but i think that's about it, the rest I think is pretty much stock.

I'll most definitely be keeping within the speed limits, I've heard about the boys in blue from Vic!

If you do it in an hour from the airport you'll be lucky! I'd offer to give you a lift, but am out of Melbourne at the moment. It will probably be $100+ for the cab fare..

What is the address in bayswater? You might be better (ie much cheaper) catching the bus from the airport to town, then they train out to bayswater (if it is anywhere near the station). It won't be too much slower, and will be a lot lot cheaper!!

Appreciate the offer, thanks.

It's actually quite close to the train station so I might be able to train it there if I catch a bus to the city. Thanks for the info :)

yep - do the airport express bus to "southern cross" railway station (ie spencer st), then catch a train to the right station. You might even be able to get an express train! The bus costs about $15 and the train ticket will be something like $6 - much better than a cab charge!

yep - do the airport express bus to "southern cross" railway station (ie spencer st), then catch a train to the right station. You might even be able to get an express train! The bus costs about $15 and the train ticket will be something like $6 - much better than a cab charge!

Yeah sounds good, thanks mate!

if i was free, id take ya. but im at work. its like 5 mins from my house.

and its not that far from the station, maybe 10mins.

but the weather is shit today so i wouldnt walk.

if you get the train, get on the BELGRAVE line, and get off at bayswater.

how was your experience with them?

i wont say on a public forum coz im not allowed to

but looks like youve picked up a winner.

nice.

Everytime i go to Melbourne it rains on my ass... :laughing-smiley-014:

Caught a bus shuttle from airport to the city and train to Bayswater with no problems, took 1 1/2 hrs and $21 all up!

I must say, I love driving again. It's an incredible car to say the least, unbelievable amount of control and traction in the wet. I spent most of the trip back hovering around 120km/h with the occasional squirt and LOVED it!! It was like there wasn't any rain at all.

Unfortunately, after about 30mins driving, the 4WD light on the dash started flashing (the one under the fuel gauge) so I pulled over and checked the Attessa fluid reservoir (it's the one to the right panel when you open the boot right?) which was low so I got some Castrol Transmax Z from the local Repco of whatever town I was in, and topped it up. Seemed allright when I restarted the car but light came on again after about 5-10mins. Discovered everytime I turn the engine off, it's allright for about that time, then comes back on. At about the same time I noticed a SLIGHT juddering whenever I stayed at a constant speed between 60-90km/h. Anything above that it was fine. If i give it a bit of pedal it goes away, it's only when I start coasting and stay between those speeds.

Would the fact that the dealer chucked on 17's on the car instead of the standard 16's caused the attessa system to chuck a wobbly? Would a tyre allignment and balance help?

The juddering is not there when the 4WD light isn't flashing, so it must be connected right? Any help would be appreciated!

JVP - Thanks for the offer too mate, appreciated!

The first thing you need to do is make 100% sure all the tyres are the same profile. Different rolling diameters will cause an upset with the 4WD system but it has a built in allowance for about 5-10% difference I think.

Next - how low was the fluid? There is a requirement to bleed any air out of the system if there is the slightest chance of any getting in there.

There are 2 bleed points too - one at the pump above the diff and one at the transfer case at the back near the top.

Whilst you are under there it would be a good thing to check out the condition of the driveshafts to the diffs and wheels. The wheel shafts are just like any other CV, but the front driveshaft should have almost NO play in it, unlike the rear that will (unless you have an LSD)

I hope some of this helps

The Stink

The first thing you need to do is make 100% sure all the tyres are the same profile. Different rolling diameters will cause an upset with the 4WD system but it has a built in allowance for about 5-10% difference I think.

Next - how low was the fluid? There is a requirement to bleed any air out of the system if there is the slightest chance of any getting in there.

There are 2 bleed points too - one at the pump above the diff and one at the transfer case at the back near the top.

Whilst you are under there it would be a good thing to check out the condition of the driveshafts to the diffs and wheels. The wheel shafts are just like any other CV, but the front driveshaft should have almost NO play in it, unlike the rear that will (unless you have an LSD)

I hope some of this helps

The Stink

Ahh ok, I've just had a look, fronts are Bridgestone B500si 215/55/R17 and rears are same but 50 series. I need to change to the same? Would swaping the fronts and rears do anything? Shame, cause tyres still have decent thread in them!

What are chances I've done some damage driving it 750kms with different profiles? arghh!

Edited by webng
Ahh ok, I've just had a look, fronts are Bridgestone B500si 215/55/R17 and rears are same but 50 series. I need to change to the same? Would swaping the fronts and rears do anything? Shame, cause tyres still have decent thread in them!

What are chances I've done some damage driving it 750kms with different profiles? arghh!

Well, its my understanding that you would have put some extra wear on the clutch packs of the transfer case but that would be about it (anyone - feel free to shoot me down in flames here) as the attessa system would have attempted to correct the fact that the rears were doing higher revs than the fronts due to smaller circumference. Swapping them over will cause exactly the same problem so that won't help you out any.

The clutch packs are likely to have a bit of chatter on them now, but a complete fluid change and the correct size tyres should see things right hopefully. You will only need to change 2 tyres if oney is a bit tight, as it usually is when getting a new toy :(

You may even get a trade in on the old ones if they are still OK.

Probably didn't help that the fronts (55 series) were 38psi and rears (50 series) were 28psi too... :( When the dealer replaced the 16's with 17's in their workshop, silly me assumed they would check tyre pressure.

Considering it seems to fix itself everytime i restart the engine, I'm hoping it hasn't stuffed the Attessa system up. I'll be getting new tyres this weekend I think. Hmm... should I keep the 50's or 55's... decisions!

Oh yeah, it is a Dayz edition, got the badge at the rear, but apart from the front bar, I don't know what else it has that's different.

sa-sau cruise on sunday, Burnside Town Hall (greenhill / portrush rds) at 12.30pm......

might see you there :(

no, the attessa wont be damaged as yet, but just letting you know to be aware, thats all.

sa-sau cruise on sunday, Burnside Town Hall (greenhill / portrush rds) at 12.30pm......

might see you there :(

no, the attessa wont be damaged as yet, but just letting you know to be aware, thats all.

Will definitely try to make it, cheers!

from the pic you posted you have Dayz side "steps" as well, show us more pics and we will tell you more!

Will do when I get home from work. The badge at the back says "Dayz Neo Series"

It's got the cool little touch screen that controls the air-con and cd player, kept be amused on the drive back as i tried to work out if there was a way of reducing the burn in my eyeballs from the brightness! got it in the end... as i was pulling up into adelaide ofcourse! :(

attessa costs 5k to fix.

get tyres exactly the same diameter........... definately.

well done on picking up your new hobby tho !

Do you guys think it'll be okay to put the current 215/50's in the front and get new 225/50's for the rear? The tyre width shouldn't matter to the rolling diameter should it?

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