Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well the R32 GTR was probably finalised back in 1986 or so. And cars have come a long way since then. So in terms of suspension where there have been leaps and bounds made i think the newer car would be better. Also the chassis in a R34 GT-t is 50 percent stiffer than that of a R33 GTR so for ciircuit that would be good.

I personally chose a 34 GT-t over a 32 GTR just because i got a newer more moden car, that i beleived i would have less problems with.

Both will make good track cars i guess it's down to personal preference, a lot of guys on here do hillclimbs and race so maybe ask in the motorsport section.

no expense? I would pick a 32 GTR in a heartbeat. dream car.. you would want to rebuild a lot of it as they are getting quite old these days. but in slick condition they would be a phenomenal track car, hell some of us still have wet dreams of bathurst days gone by :)

speaking purely in terms of percentage increase of power from the engine, R33 GTS-t. You can go from 140rwkw to 270rwkw without opening the motor and that's pretty impressive.

Out of the 32 GTR, 33GTR and 34GT T with no expense a problem which would create the best car for track and occasional drag.

please post opinions backed with facts! Cheers.

Any restrictions at all? Are you prepping it just for random track days / supersprints, or do you want to race in specific classes of racing (that may have modification rules)?

Rule the GTT out. If money is no object, you should only be considering GT-Rs anyway. Structural rigidity is nice, but its a lot easier and more reliable to start off with an AWD drivetrain than trying to make one fit....and AWD is going to be important when you sink a king's ransom into the engine. Its a lot easier, with fewer reliability problems, to seam weld and brace a chassis than trying to make an AWD system go in.

I'd probably take the R32. With no budget and no class restrictions you can do anything you want (just use a tube frame and keep the silhouette after you've replaced the entire body with CF), and the R32 is a sexier beast.

The R34 GT-R's ATTESSA system is meant to be the best of the lot, being the last of the breed. How come in your unlimited budget question its not an option?

Any restrictions at all? Are you prepping it just for random track days / supersprints, or do you want to race in specific classes of racing (that may have modification rules)?

Rule the GTT out. If money is no object, you should only be considering GT-Rs anyway. Structural rigidity is nice, but its a lot easier and more reliable to start off with an AWD drivetrain than trying to make one fit....and AWD is going to be important when you sink a king's ransom into the engine. Its a lot easier, with fewer reliability problems, to seam weld and brace a chassis than trying to make an AWD system go in.

I'd probably take the R32. With no budget and no class restrictions you can do anything you want (just use a tube frame and keep the silhouette after you've replaced the entire body with CF), and the R32 is a sexier beast.

The R34 GT-R's ATTESSA system is meant to be the best of the lot, being the last of the breed. How come in your unlimited budget question its not an option?

I was asking with these 3 cars in mind because by stating that money was not a problem i'm trying to eliminate out the replies like 32 GTR engines are older etc etc (since i cant help but think what a 32 GTR with 34 engine and ESSA, upgraded shocks etc etc would be capable of in terms of performance) . I'm talking these cars brought back to new. and the 34 GTR is not an option because it's price is allot higher than the latter and in my eyes with no major benefit considering the car will be modified.

Edited by deant1

32 GTR is lightest, get things like a full suspension setup, HKS underbody strengthening kit, cross brace for rear, underbody cross brace... You could really stiffen up chassis, engine well you can do whatever you want so thats limited only to budget, but its a solid base in the rb26dett..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha yea it's a bit of a weird setup at the moment, just wanted to make sure I sorted out any headaches before dyno day. At the moment I've changed the exhaust manifold, turbo and downpipe, 460lph fuel pump and rising rate reg as well as the previously mentioned headstuds and gasket. The nistune was already mapped for the car as it was and drove around for a few months no worries. The plan is to run flex fuel hence the big pump, which I've wired direct to the battery through a relay to avoid voltage issues.
    • Um. Was the ECU the same as the one previously there? I know R33's needed R32 GTST ECU's or other tomfoolery to run Nistune. This is such a wild setup. Most people would plumb in the turbo then not drive the car (i.e tow it to a tuner). What's actually changed since it last ran?
    • I'm a bit stuck with this one fellas, I recently decided to undertake a turbo conversion on my GTS-4, ended up pulling the motor to replace all the seals and do an mls head gasket and arp head studs while I was at it. Everything has gone according to plan, no oil or coolant leaks, compression checked out, and decided to give it a test before I book it in for a tune As it stands right now, the turbo only has oil lines plumbed so that I don't put boost into my untuned engine, and I'm using the factory GTS-T crossover pipe with a maf and poddy as a temporary intake. The car starts with relative ease and idles amazingly, however as the title suggests it really doesn't want to rev up, runs very smooth but almost feels choked out and unresponsive to the throttle, almost like it's running lean or something? I've triple checked my vacuum lines and timing with a timing light, injectors haven't been touched as of yet to avoid flooding the engine and worked perfectly beforehand, new plugs and coilpacks, I've even unbolted the cat just to see if it spontaneously collapsed, no dice The car currently has a nistune r32 gtst ecu installed so I have no way to check for fault codes. At this point I'm a bit stumped. Is this normal behaviour for a car with a turbo bolted onto the exhaust going nowhere? I'd imagine the turbo wouldn't cause this much restriction in the exhaust without the boost going through the intake. Any ideas? If necessary I can link a video of how it responds to full throttle while in neutral.  
    • Insert tab A into slot B?
    • Instructions seem simple enough to understand.....
×
×
  • Create New...