Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a set of 4 super-wide/super-lightweight 17"x9" Enkei RP01 wheels and tyres for sale.

Offset 17 x 9JJ 22

Two of the tyres are what everyone could consider unroadworthy, and the other two have tread but are a little scrubbed on the edges due to the camber my GTR was running. There is a very small curb scratch on one wheel that is cosmetic and the wheels are in very good condition otherwise never had accident damage or been repaired.

I have attached some Pictures of the wheels whilst they were on my car in Japan. The wheels are Located in Melbourne South-east suburbs, pickup would be preferable.

Wheels will suit all skyline models, they fit perfectly on the 32, so 33 and 34 are safe!

I'm looking for $1,100 PRICE DROP $750....

Don't miss out on these awesome classic wheels!

post-3918-1182865952_thumb.jpg

post-3918-1182866102_thumb.jpg

post-3918-1182866128_thumb.jpg

post-3918-1182937978_thumb.jpg

post-3918-1182938016_thumb.jpg

post-3918-1182938194_thumb.jpg

Edited by zandi2000
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/174348-soldplease-close-thread/
Share on other sites

i wish you were in sydney!

i have a set of R33 GTR wheels for sale... but when i bought them i was looking for these.

would you be at all interested in a swap? less the tyres

would basically be willing to drive down to swap? are you interested?

Drive from Sydney to swap!? wow... i appreciate your effort man but im in a bit of a money crisis at the moment and would prefer cash, if you can muster up the money i could potentially freight them up to Sydney for you.... sorry mate

A bunch of you guys have shown interest in the wheels but I havnt seen the money in my bank.. comon people take these lightweight Japanese wheels off my hands!

Pm's sent...Ok guys didnt intend this to drag out this much.. will accept offers over 850.. its rediculous how much im losing on these stupid wheels.. my shipping receipts will prove that!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not a problem at all Lithium, I appreciate your help regardless. I've pulled a small part of a log where the target pressure was 28psi and it spiked to 36.4psi. I've only just begun using Data Log Viewer so if I'm sending this in the wrong format let me know.
    • Sorry had a bit of a week and haven't had heaps of time to follow this, so apologies if I've missed something - any chance of showing a log with the rpm, turbo speed, MAP, and wgdc all in one view? Definitely an "interesting" problem, and while it's definitely worth noting that there was a similar issue with the twins I'd not completely put all bets on the root cause being the same thing.  Keep an open mind, follow the data.
    • I built this engine approximately 12 years ago so my own head (brain) is a little grey on the exact hardware in the RB head, however what I recall is. Stock RB25 NEO TURBO Intake Camshaft HKS 260 degree Exhaust Camshaft (R34 GTR) RB25 NEO Turbo Springs  I ported/removed the exhaust stud humps found in the RB25 head so theres less turbulence but it wasn't ported/polished properly, just a hump removal. I've attached two pictures of the before and after to illustrate.     The ECU gets its boost reference from the nipple on the rear of the head on the intake side, behind the fuel rail. The wastegate gets its boost reference from a nipple on the cooler pipe immediately after the comp cover.  Could a decent pressure drop across the intercooler cause the wastegate to be seeing a higher PSI than what the ECU is seeing, and thus it can't control it accurately and quick enough?   We ran a line to the actuator and watched it open and close using an air compressor, while we didn't have a gauge on the line to see when it was cracking open, it was opening smoothly.  I just removed the gate now and even though the documentation says you need to open it in a vice due to preload (which I did), there wasn't any preload on the cap, which is something we noticed straight out of the box as well when new. This silver cap internally is threaded to the actuator rod that runs out the bottom of the straightgate. Not sure how I'm supposed to get this spring out to be frank.. Potentially but everyone else doesn't appear to have to stop at 500kw because of 6boosts design.  I would, but I think I'm getting to that point where if I'm going to do the head and make another 100kw, then I'm going to need a fancy gearbox and quite a few other things and 10k becomes 20k becomes 30k within a few months. I'm not necessarily sold on the idea just yet that the head is restrictive at 4000rpm (and what.. 300kw?) and yet doesn't seem to be restrictive at 7000rpm when it's making 500kw, however I'm obviously not closing the door on that theory.
    • Yeah - Half the problem is I know this sensor actually goes to 150C.. I'm pretty certain it is min of 11C. So still more data required I suppose. It's really quite hard to get the oil temp to 100+ then immediately pull over and take a reading before the temp drops. Annoyingly I suppose the range I really 'want' is likely 80 -> 120C. TBH the ecu can't really *do* anything with it, and the gauge itself is very visible... ...but you know how it is.
    • My EFR 8474 Black, made 800awhp on a roller dyno. at 25-26psi. E85. Shaft speed was around 106,000rpm 1.01 rear. The rear is maxed.  6 boost Turbosmart 60mm gate 3.5inch exhaust  Head is worked to the shithouse. Bain racing. VCam. 272 exhaust. RB28 - RB26 foundation.  You have an intake issue. Start getting proper data and I mean go back to the simple things.  - Pressure test your intake - Block off the Turbo BOV, you don't need it.  - Test pressure before and after your intercooler If your head is pretty stock, that is your issue. Especially if it is NA.  Take it off and spend $10k on it. 
×
×
  • Create New...