Hit A Kerb.... Need Help!

[gtst7]

Hi everyone,

Could someone please help me with my r32 skyline? Basically I've ran over a kerb, and I broke the castor rod and bent the control arm (front left). I've bought new one and tried to put it back in myself. however, it wont seem to go in... like it's not allign... I dunno if I've damaged the chasis also or maybe the strut aswell. Here's are some pics of it any comments would be appriciated thanks.

[[mez]]

Mate i'd be getting some measurements from the other side and comparing differences to see which other components are bent.

[nissan_gtr35]

Did the same thing a year or so ago now and i know how much it hurts. Id suggest getting the car to a mechanic or at least a wheel/suspension repairer as there can be some "unseen" problems. Essentially when i did it the damage was only minor but it still needed to be checked on a chassis aligner, which as one of the checks to make sure the chassis rails are still aligned. If the accident was low speed then you should be ok.

Secondly i damaged my hub without knowing it and had to replace it. You will be suprised what a slow speed gutter collision will do!

[gtst7]

sigh... do you know how much it will cost roughyly?

[Im_RiCK_JaMeS_BiArTcH]

more than likely bent the cross member. i know a few people that feel your pain and by the way stop hitting the kerbs man, i gotta replace em lol.

[blind_elk]

Have you tried fitting the x-member end first, then connecting the hub?

[BHDave]

Have you tried fitting the x-member end first, then connecting the hub?

That would be my advice as well. Then fit the castor rod to the LCA, then pull the hub forward and drop it onto the ball joint.

Check for other bent stuff too. The sway bar link is sitting at a funny angle, but that may be due to the lack of a castor rod to pull everything forward

[gtst7]

which one is the cross member? I just had a look at it again and I think the strut might be bent? is it likely that I could have stuffed the strut? also could the susp arm (connected to strut) be stuffed also?

[blind_elk]

The LCA pivots from the cross-member out towards the hub assembly. (The cross-member is also the structure that the engine sits on)

[SECURITY]

looks like the sway bar is bent mate.

unbolt it, put your new part on, then bolt the sway bar back on.

[gtst7]

yeah I tried that still wont do it, is it meant to be an easy fit or are you meant to force it in? also could the strut be fuekd?

I got the x member in and it went it pretty easily it just I cant get the hub in its been pushed back I think... so does this mean there's no chasis damage since I managed to get the castor rod and lower suspension arm in?

Edited July 2, 2007 by gtst7

[blind_elk]

yeah I tried that still wont do it, is it meant to be an easy fit or are you meant to force it in? also could the strut be fuekd?

I got the x member in and it went it pretty easily it just I cant get the hub in its been pushed back I think... so does this mean there's no chasis damage since I managed to get the castor rod and lower suspension arm in?

There's no "strut".

Disconnect everything - hub, sway bar, castor rod - from the control arm.

The arm should be a tight fit into the x-member, and may need a spot of "persuasion" (if you get my drift). The hub will slop around because it's only held by the upper control arm. Once you have the arm attached and bolted to the x-member, the hub can be swung into position and connected to the ball joint. Now you can start thinking about connecting the castor rod and sway bar.

The castor rod forms the third side of the triangle to keep the wheel in position, so you may need to lever the hub assembly into position so the castor rod can be connected to the control arm. Connect the castor rod to the chassis first. Then move the control arm / hub to meet the castor rod.

[blind_elk]

Just studying the photos again. It looks like the link pin on the sway bar might be interfering with the positioning of the hub. Try tucking it back down away from the hub.

Also, is the car jacked up on both sides? Jacking up one side only loads the sway bar and can create difficulties getting stuff to line up properly.

[B0oStEr]

My son did the exact same thing to his r32.

He broke the radius rod and bent the lower control arm back.

It bent the back of the crossmember backward from the LCA inner bush bolt outward.

After we straightened it and put it all back together with a new arm and radius rod he refused to pay for a wheel alignment and wore out a new set of tyres in 3 months.

When he finally got a wheel alignment he found the wheel was still pushed back 14mm.

We fitted another radius rod support bracket to fix it.

Even though the old one didn't look seriously bent it was.

Compare the LHS of your crossmember with the RHS side to see if it's bent.

Get a wheel alignment when your done.

[gtst7]

yeah I jacked it up on both side... cant really see ne diff cept the strut seems a bit bent on the crash side... I mean can the strut actually be the solution?

[B0oStEr]

yeah I jacked it up on both side... cant really see ne diff cept the strut seems a bit bent on the crash side... I mean can the strut actually be the solution?

By the strut do you mean the hub and knuckle upright assembly?

I don't think it bend in my son's car but it's hard to tell because it's not straight in the first place.

If it is bent it would cause all sorts of problems.

[tyaos]

my car had same problem when i bought my R34 GTT

may be it was from japan... the caster rod was bented and left had side tire was wearing out sosososososo baddly....

i had to buy adjustable caster rod and changed them to adjust... my whole front bit was bented little bit... no one can tell its bented but if you see the nose part i see the bonnet and body doesnt lined properly... anyway... if your front bent due to that problem... adjustable caster rod will do. and wheel alighnment..

my tire is not wearing out anymore.. im happy now anyway

its all good unless i put NOS on....lol

good luck