Another "build" Help Post

[rolledmymazda]

Sorry about another BUILD post, Ive been reading as much as I can over the last 2 months while the engine was pulled and opened

and I just couldnt rap my head around the cams (lift/ect and how all that worked) so since I had to ask about cams, might as wall spill all.

I have $10000US to spend on parts (labour is covered) and want to spend it all on the engine at this time since its out.

The car is an 1989 R32 GT-R

Presently, all I have for mods are Apexi Air, 4inch exhaust and R34 Getrag 6speed (dont ask, dont know, it was bought this way)

I'm not a big HP freak, but since im changing the stock turbos and strengthing the internals I might as well get as much out of it as I can, WHILE sticking to a bolt on Turbo.

I prefer track/street driving, not so much drag. And prefrer as quick a response from the turbos as possible.

This is what was recomended by Skyline Parts seller in Canada

Turbos: 2860 -5 (aprox$2300US) , although I think I'd prefer GT-2530 or GT-SS or even the 2869 -7

(my head hurts from reading all the chatter, can anyone say which puts out the most HP and which has the best response?

cause from the turbo dyno posts, the numbers were all over the place, and the only common opinion was stay away from the GT-RS)

Pistons: Weisco (aprox$1100US) is there an equivalent priced part that is better?

Rods: Carrillo super a beam (aprox$1400US) again, is there an equivalent priced part that is better? or do I even need rods?

Head will be ported/polished

***Need Cams***

I have NO idea what specs are best or matter or even represent (and I assume springs/valves/retainers)

This by far is where Im lost and need help the most

Need Adj Cam Gears (is there really any difference?)

Is there (of course there is) an opinion on Head Gaskets?

Oil pump, He says N1 is fine upto 500bhp, or should I upgrade to JUN? Already bought the collar to strengthen the crank

N1 Water pump

Is there anything else internally or bolted on that would be best changed now while the egine is out???

Dump pipe? im guessing the pipes from the turbos? any particular brand?

Head bolts? are stonger ones really worth the cash?

Outside of the engine..

Wideband? PLX R-500, I dont mind spending the money as from what I have read it really helps with the tune and therefor engine life, am I corect on this?

And Since Im in Canada, whats a good clutch (remeber R34tranny) since It woudl be hard for me to go through JIM BERRY!!!!

I don't mind a twin, I just want something that will last a good amount of punishment.

I not asking for a ton of opinions (except on cams)

a simple BUY THIS! on the rest of my questions will help

thanks for any info!

[blk180]

Get some tips on oil control from here

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=110680

I have 2530s and i think there a good street setup.(think the 2560-7 are almost the same -5s are closer to GT-SSs)

Lots of people like the nismo copper mix twin plate, drives like normal rated at 700-800ps

Im running tomei 260deg in/out poncams, fit straight in.

Rods are up to you i use them but others dont.

Trust front/dumps are about the best or if you have fronts can just go HKS/tomei dumps

N1 oil pump ok(im using one) but if you have the money for a JUN/HKS/TOMEI mite be better.

no idea on head gasket or rod bolts but i used tomei full metal gasket kit and ARP head bolts.

[rolledmymazda]

Thanks for the info,

So with the 260poncams I dont need to change the spring/retainers or anything else right?

Ya, and I guess I need some ideas about the head gasket? how do I know what "mm" I need? 1.2mm ect

and does anyone know if the weisco or Carrillo are any good?

[Beer Baron]

with $10K USD to spend on engine related parts only this is what I would buy:

Tomei or HKS 2.8 l stroker kit (include crank, rods, pistons, not sure on bearings, if not, buy some nissan ones)

tomei 260 or hks 264 cams with around 9mm lift (tomei have a set which comes with adjustable gears which is good value)

HKS 2530 turbo kit

tomei dump pipes/extension pipes

sard 700CC injectors

nismo air flow meters

tomei sump baffles

mines cam cover baffles

nismo fuel pump

Apexi power FC

new oil and water pumps

new clutch (nismo coppermix twin comes highly reccomended)

tomei gasket set (includes head gasket, oil restrictor, inlet gaskets etc) 1.2mm head gasket is fine

some kind of boost control (whatever you have preference for basically)

then if you have money left:

Greddy oil cooler kit (duct mounted one)

koyo radiator

ARC 70mm or 100mm intercooler

there are lots of other things you can add that will be nice to have, but not 100% neccesary if you have money left over. this package will give you a reliable, responsive (as can be) 550-600hp. Now start looking and big brakes and good tyres and suspension.

[rolledmymazda]

Sounds like an interisting build, I never thought of a stroker kit.

HKS Step 1

HKS Step 2 +$1500(aprox)

HKS Step 3 +$3000(aprox)

Is the cost worth of step 2 or 3 worth the cost?

Im guessing the difference is due to piston and rod strength, with only using GT2530s would I even need step 2 or 3?

IS that the only difference between the Steps?

Is the TOMEI Oil Pan Baffle PLATE any better/worse then just an Oil Pan Baffle?

And would the TOMEI "Turbine Outlet Pipes" be the same thing as "dump/extension pipes?

And finaly, whats the difference between the poncams with 260 intake/exhaust and the 260intake 252exhaust?

and thanks again to those that have posted!

[700HP-GTR33]

with $10K USD to spend on engine related parts only this is what I would buy:

Tomei or HKS 2.8 l stroker kit (include crank, rods, pistons, not sure on bearings, if not, buy some nissan ones)

tomei 260 or hks 264 cams with around 9mm lift (tomei have a set which comes with adjustable gears which is good value)

HKS 2530 turbo kit

tomei dump pipes/extension pipes

sard 700CC injectors

nismo air flow meters

tomei sump baffles

mines cam cover baffles

nismo fuel pump

Apexi power FC

new oil and water pumps

new clutch (nismo coppermix twin comes highly reccomended)

tomei gasket set (includes head gasket, oil restrictor, inlet gaskets etc) 1.2mm head gasket is fine

some kind of boost control (whatever you have preference for basically)

then if you have money left:

Greddy oil cooler kit (duct mounted one)

koyo radiator

ARC 70mm or 100mm intercooler

there are lots of other things you can add that will be nice to have, but not 100% neccesary if you have money left over. this package will give you a reliable, responsive (as can be) 550-600hp. Now start looking and big brakes and good tyres and suspension.

I think judging by the pricing on the Garrett turbo kit$2750Aus you have blown him out of the water..this set up will cost more like $20K US.

The cams you need are Tomie Poncam.(260) 9.15 lift..drop in..but will need some new shims..after the measuring....might need 1 to 20.

The cams can come in a set with adjustable cam gears as well as stated...good pricing for both

I would suggest changing the stud-bolts(I think that is what they are called)(tomei) as well which keep the cams down...

Also change the cam gear bolts,and all belts.

You will need a PFC computer,boost controller and some one who knows how to tune this otherwise you will have lots of lag.

Bad economy(not that yanks worry about that) or detonation..not to mention high knock levels.

Oh..don't forget money for the clutch,brake,suspension and tyre(tire)lol upgrades because you will need them.

this could cost you all your 10K..lol.

why didn't you just buy a gtst...why....??????????

[rolledmymazda]

Thanks for the info about the exact cams (and the shims), and all the bolts.

As far as breaks/suspension/tires go, this will all be done over the winter.

It's summer driven only and most likely wont get back on the road till next year.

Thats why I'm putting all I have into the engine atm, as I can come up with what I need for these parts before the start of next summer.

I did a rough est. of $14000US with Beer Baron's set up, which is doable if I spend the cash I set aside for labour and then start to work some serious overtime.

(not including clutch/pfc/fuelpump, all can be added later)

As far as a gtst, I didnt just buy the GTR and deceide to rebuild, Ive had it for 2 1/2 years now and wouldn't have bothered with a rebuild if not for a spun crank bearing

Edited June 29, 2007 by rolledmymazda