Jump to content
SAU Community

Does This Sound Like A Synchro Prob?

GTR_STEALTH
 Share

Recommended Posts

GTR_STEALTH Proficient

GTR_STEALTH

Posted
Posted (edited)

When going from 3rd to 4th if i try slam it in it crunches. But if i ease it in gently its ok and doesnt crunch.

If it is the synchro, am i doing damage to the gear when it crunches?

Im gonna be looking at putting some Redline Shockproof in as it seems every thread recommends it, but i would also like to know how much it would it roughly cost to get someone to fix ALL synchro's if its needed?

All advice appreciated. :(

Edited by GTR_STEALTH
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/174507-does-this-sound-like-a-synchro-prob/
Share on other sites
LoNg_ShaNks Community Regular

LoNg_ShaNks

Posted
Posted

I purchase my R32 GTS with gearbox issues. I had it checked out and the specialist advised the main bearing was pretty much farked and the 2nd and 5th gear synchro's needed replacing. It cost me approx $780 with 1yr/20Km warranty. IMO i dont think it will be cheap.

good luck :(

Bl4cK32 Grand Master

Bl4cK32

Posted
Posted

Why do u need to slam it? Its a nice way to kill a box as u are finding out.

It is syncros, and usually when they are replaced they only do the ones that require it.

I had a quote from nissan a while ago, and all syncros + parts was about $550. Might have gone up since, or u might not be able to get all parts.

GeeTR Grand Master

GeeTR

Posted
Posted

Had same issue, plus 2nd > 3rd shift crunch if moved too quick (not fast enough to be branded abuse)

Redline shockproof cured all, plus allowed me to actually get it into 1st when cold and rolling at walking pace.

Have heard on NS i think, that Redline can harm the box. I don't believe this though.

M

Rekin Grand Master

Rekin

Posted
Posted

Give these guys a call;

http://japanesegearbox.com.au/

They quoted me $990 swapover for a fully rebuilt gearbox r32 gtst

and $150 to remove/refit new box

edit;

Redline doesnt fix things, it just makes the noises go away. You're still causing damage to the box just your extending its life with a temp fix with redline.

I had redline put in 15,000km ago and the problems have re-emerged.

Cheers

heller44 Mentor

heller44

Posted
Posted

Have you changed the oil since you bought the car?

I had exactly the same symptoms, weak syncho's into 4th with a quicker shift at higher revs. Changed oil to vmx80 and nulon g70 treatment. Now it is very nice to use.

I was advised against the redline lightweight shockproof as the chemical rating(?) of the oil eats away at the material the synchro is made of.. heard this from a number of sources.

james.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Rb26/30 build

      By MBS206 路 Posted

      And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • MBS206
      Nismo rear spats

      By MBS206 路 Posted

      No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Butters
      Rb26/30 build

      By Butters 路 Posted

      Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • GTSBoy
      Rb26/30 build

      By GTSBoy 路 Posted

      2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • lilley's gtr
      Rb26/30 build

      By lilley's gtr 路 Posted

      I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
脳
脳
  • Create New...