My Green 33 N/a - Now Rb25det Conversion

[H@ME]

PLease tell me how this is fixed!!!!!!

After doing two rb25 conversions.. I still havent figured it out!

Cooler looks mean poking out from the front bar!..

Congrats man!.. Enjoy it.. but learn it first!

Lookin forward to next round of mods!

Can you also tell me if the car to progressivly get more difficult to start?..

And How and what you guys did to solve the problem!

Cheers mate!

Btw.. is your fuel pump enough for the power increase?

Yeaha the fuel pump seems to be doing its job! BTW i spoke the mechanic about the speedo he said that is a pretty normal problem with conversions something to do witht the difference in thr speed sensors so maybe i have to get a speed sensor from a Gts-t? I not sure think i will ask an auto electrician about it. she has not been difficult to start, click on and brrrooooom.

Cooler does look mean on my front bar, its a very different front bar i have never seen anther skyline with it on! She is so much fun to drive and very very responsive, with boost coming on really early. I will be needing to get a boost gauge and install my apexi timer soon to keep everything in check. I will be giving the engine back a good clean up (hopefully today) and putting back all my sound gear. Will post some better pics of her soon! Thanks for all the interest and advice guys has been a good experience with the help of SAU!

BTW brakes were not upgraded however, i'm going to see wat i can do about this, any ideas guys??

[Eug]

brembos are cheap

same with g4 calipers

alternatively see my brake upgrade thread.

[Yawn]

Cheap

[Eug]

Cheap

well in the grand scheme of things... i have a rule that you should spend at least the same if not more on your suspension/braking than power mods.

going quickly is good and all, but what will stop you?

[Yawn]

Good rule, but I guess getting something decent is enough rather than some massive 6 pot Alcon's just to spend at least as much as you have on power

Are NA brakes much smaller than turbo though? What size rotors can you run?

[Eug]

true, well i was merely being generic earlier.

6 potters would be an overkill for someone who isn't doing any sort of motorsport/track work, heck you wouldn't even need brakes for going down the 1/4 mile.

NA brakes are a twin piston sliding front, single piston sliding rear - significantly smaller than turbo brakes.

rotor size? unsure, i ditched them ASAP - there isn't much available in terms of NA brakes.

my effective but cheap option was a bolt in GTST calipers/rotors. however with all these so called 'racers' nowadays upgrading their already good brembos to AP racing, Grex, Alcon, etc. etc.... i've noticed an increase in available brembos, and a drop in price.

back in the day sumitomo calipers/rotors were going for $1000+. now you can pick up a set of 4 for like $500.

[Yawn]

Damn, 2/1 pots? H@ME take this man's advice and upgrade your brakes for sure.

Wish I could sell my Sumitomo's for a grand

[H@ME]

thanks for the advice guys, i intend on having the breaks upgraded, EUG what do u mean by "my effective but cheap option was a bolt in GTST calipers/rotors." is this possible without the 5-stud conversion, he was ment to do the brakes, i not sure why. i suppose i'll have to get them donw soon. I gave the bay a bit of a clean up etc she looking a bit better, but yeaha i have read alot of the information EUG has supplied and he has been a great help! Hame

[Eug]

Wish I could sell my Sumitomo's for a grand

two years ago for $900, and i would have snapped them up quickly. now they are getting on in the years, require new pistons, sleeves, etc... $500 will buy you calipers plus another few hundred for a freshen up.

thanks for the advice guys, i intend on having the breaks upgraded, EUG what do u mean by "my effective but cheap option was a bolt in GTST calipers/rotors." is this possible without the 5-stud conversion, he was ment to do the brakes, i not sure why. i suppose i'll have to get them donw soon. I gave the bay a bit of a clean up etc she looking a bit better, but yeaha i have read alot of the information EUG has supplied and he has been a great help! Hame

yes it's possible to have turbo rotors and calipers without doing the stud conversion. i have:

R32 GTST* Type M calipers (front and rear)

R32 GTST* DBA slotted rotors (front) - just buy a blank rotor and have them drilled to 4x114.3

R32 GTST* rotors (rear)

4 studs

braided brake lines (front and rear)

using the old R33 GTS25 handbrake, no dramas on the skidpan and on the race track.

*the reason i opted for an R32 setup was because the R32 have the same diameter rotor as an S13/180SX - which have a bit more variety in terms of rotors RDA & DBA whilst keeping the 114.3 PCD. I have yet to try, but this might possible and would save in having to get rotors re-drilled all the time.

it's a bit backyard, it works, and even if you're not doing track work a stock gtst setup with a refresh is enough piece of mind.

i don't think there's TOO much of a difference in pad/rotor contact area between the GTS and GTSTs - however the firmness in braking and being able to pull up in a shorter distance is definitely noticeable. i often find myself out-braking the turbo skylines at QR.

hunt around on the forums for someone wrecking a car, or even browse around yahoo japan.

this is my setup. definitely do-able; hope this helps

[H@ME]

Goods great, my mechanic had all the parts to do the brake conversion i think (Well the front brakes as that is what came with the front cut) so i suppose i'll see what happened there, i have mate who said he'll give me the gts-t rotors, is it hard to fit these items with 4-stud? Who did the work on your break? workshop? yourself?

[Eug]

i fitted everything myself. the only things i had outsourced was the rebuilding of calipers, re-drilling & machining of rotors.

it's relatively straight forward, however if you're not confident best to avoid it.

[H@ME]

Well i am confident etc, suppose i just need to get a hand on all the parts, i do like to learn about the car by modifying and changing parts my self. i just messaged my mechanic to see if he still has all the braking component parts. Who did you have do your work, rebuilding of calipers, re-drilling & machining of rotors? just interested, and was it expensive?

[GTS4WD]

R32 GTST* Type M calipers (front and rear)

R32 GTST* DBA slotted rotors (front) - just buy a blank rotor and have them drilled to 4x114.3

R32 GTST* rotors (rear)

4 studs

braided brake lines (front and rear)

using the old R33 GTS25 handbrake, no dramas on the skidpan and on the race track.

*the reason i opted for an R32 setup was because the R32 have the same diameter rotor as an S13/180SX - which have a bit more variety in terms of rotors RDA & DBA whilst keeping the 114.3 PCD. I have yet to try, but this might possible and would save in having to get rotors re-drilled all the time.

4 STUD!?!

Thats strange.. mine are 5.. .. its a GTS4 if it makes a diff..

Can we have a link to this Brake thread mate?

*sigh*.. theres so much I wanna do and so little funds!.. Braided brake lines will be the first after the bottom end.. DBA's front and perhaps Z32 calipars all round or GTR's.. not too sure what Im gonna do about the rears yet.. Another Grand gone..

I CURSE YOU MODIFING BUG!.. just like the bug in Eug's sig!

Edited November 5, 2007 by GTS4WD

[Eug]

Who did you have do your work, rebuilding of calipers, re-drilling & machining of rotors? just interested, and was it expensive?

NA_R33 has access to an engineering workshop, re-drilling and machining was done there for a slab of beer.

Rebuilding calipers was through my mechanic, i had the calipers pulled apart cleaned up, new sleeves put in, pistons, rubber seals, backing plates etc. All up around $3-400 for all four calipers.

Your local brake specialists should be able to do it.

4 STUD!?!

Thats strange.. mine are 5.. .. its a GTS4 if it makes a diff..

Can we have a link to this Brake thread mate?

*sigh*.. theres so much I wanna do and so little funds!.. Braided brake lines will be the first after the bottom end.. DBA's front and perhaps Z32 calipars all round or GTR's.. not too sure what Im gonna do about the rears yet.. Another Grand gone..

I CURSE YOU MODIFING BUG!.. just like the bug in Eug's sig!

GTS4 would have a semi-gtr setup i would think.

braided lines are definitely up there with one of my best mods (actually they are all pretty good, i haven't done a mod which i haven't liked). direct pedal feel and firmness in braking - no point in doing them if you aren't going to do track work though.

lol @ crawling bug

[H@ME]

I have 2x gts-t calipers and rotors with plenty of meat, n pads are fine, so is there a easy way of fitting these with keeping the 4-stud or is it really hard? any feedback would be good, EUG do you have msn, same as you GTS4WD, i'd like to have a chat about them.

Also i have a sqeaking from the fan belt, but i did the old soap as a dry lubricant and this did not quiten it down so i kept applying the soap, nothing changed, so i tryed to tighten the fan belt on the altenator, but i think it is the bearings in the altenator. you suggest just fitting a new one?? Is it a hard process or simply just bolt off bolt on and tighen belt?

Hame

p.s sorry for long post.

[GTS4WD]

I have 2x gts-t calipers and rotors with plenty of meat, n pads are fine, so is there a easy way of fitting these with keeping the 4-stud or is it really hard? any feedback would be good, EUG do you have msn, same as you GTS4WD, i'd like to have a chat about them.

Also i have a sqeaking from the fan belt, but i did the old soap as a dry lubricant and this did not quiten it down so i kept applying the soap, nothing changed, so i tryed to tighten the fan belt on the altenator, but i think it is the bearings in the altenator. you suggest just fitting a new one?? Is it a hard process or simply just bolt off bolt on and tighen belt?

Hame

p.s sorry for long post.

Hmmm.. Because its already drilled 5 stud. You may be able to use one.. maby two of the existing studs.. and drill the other 2 or 3..

Ghetto? ..you bet!.. Safe?.. Probs not.

Best bet is to get some blank BDA's.. their about $150 each.

Does your car have ABS?

Will you be driving full song through twisties or doing track work?.. if not.. id recomend some high quality performance pads and you should be right for street driving..

Fan belt is inccorect size.. my power steering belt is about 5mm too long and sqeils when cold on full lock. When does it squeel? Then we can determin what belt it is.

P.s.. long post?.. You havent seen some of my rants yet.. have you? :laughing-smiley-014:

Edited November 13, 2007 by GTS4WD

[H@ME]

lol yeah, actaully i have, the bwlt is definatly the fan belt, doesnt seem to be too long, i did tighen it up but i snapped the bolt on the altenator, so i looking to just buy a new one and fit it maybe this will solvew the problem, it definatly sounds like it coming from the cog on the altenator, use to happen only on start up now it is constant...ideas?

as for the brakes...i still tossing up the options.

if i get the dba rotors, is it then easy to still fit the gtst calipers?

hame

[Eug]

Hmmm.. Because its already drilled 5 stud. You may be able to use one.. maby two of the existing studs.. and drill the other 2 or 3..

Ghetto? ..you bet!.. Safe?.. Probs not.

Best bet is to get some blank BDA's.. their about $150 each.

Does your car have ABS?

Fan belt is inccorect size.. my power steering belt is about 5mm too long and sqeils when cold on full lock. When does it squeel? Then we can determin what belt it is.

you can use one (1) of the existing holes, three (3) new ones need to be drilled.

safe = yes, if done correctly. none of this home cordless drill rubbish.

ABS is a good question, find out.

a blank disc would be desirable, see if they'll do a blank rotor with 4x114.3

lol yeah, actaully i have, the bwlt is definatly the fan belt, doesnt seem to be too long, i did tighen it up but i snapped the bolt on the altenator, so i looking to just buy a new one and fit it maybe this will solvew the problem, it definatly sounds like it coming from the cog on the altenator, use to happen only on start up now it is constant...ideas?

as for the brakes...i still tossing up the options.

if i get the dba rotors, is it then easy to still fit the gtst calipers?

hame

is the belt sound a squeel? new belts do take time to 'wear' in. if it's coming from the alternator/cog, then it could be on the way out - see if you can use your old one from the RB25DE.

if you get the dba/rda rotors - buy blank R33 GTST rotors and have them drilled to 4x114.3 instead of the usual 5x114.3. it's no drama really.

[H@ME]

i have a topic going on it atm http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...67#entry3471267

but i think it should just be replaced (the altenator).

My rb25de i sold, so that is out of the question, dammit!

i need to find a new one, series one and two are compatible correct? wat about 33's n 34's altenators?

As for the brakes, i think DBA's or RDA rotors would be the best option, i have 2 x gtst callipers (front) and 2 x rotors already drilled (5-stud) and i have a mate who is giving me another set of drilled gtst front rotors!

... hame

[Eug]

EUG do you have msn, same as you GTS4WD, i'd like to have a chat about them.

i do, but i am never on.

i am in brisbane as well, if you come to the AGM (see other forum) or the Super Skyline Cruise (SSC) - hunt me down and introduce yourself.