Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey ppls,

Has any one bothered port matching the turbine inlet of their Garrett GT30/GT35 turbine housing?

Mine and another (GT35) the inlet is smaller than that of the stock exhaust manifold and another aftermarket manifold that used a 'standard' T3 flange size.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/174841-port-match-garrett-turbo/
Share on other sites

Has any one bothered port matching the turbine inlet of their Garrett GT30/GT35 turbine housing?

Mine and another (GT35) the inlet is smaller than that of the stock exhaust manifold and another aftermarket manifold that used a 'standard' T3 flange size.

Yep, my GT30R was exactly the same - quite a bit smaller.... I almost wondered if it was deliberate so instead of over shooting it'd undershoot the size of any manifold it was attaching to, and you could match it to suit from there.

portedt3.jpg

Yes. ;)

Once I've got the head back from Miltons I will be bolting it on, welding up the inlet pipe and dump pipe as quick as possible. 3-4am late nights coming up. ;)

Just finished up port matching the std exh manifold; when I dropped the rb30det in I just wanted to get it in and started. :P

Ports 1 and 6 are out by 1.5mm towards the top of the port, 2-5 are fairly spot on.

See how I go tomorrow ripping in to it.

Nice - how is this coming along? Are you running one of the 56-trim GT3076Rs (with the anti-surge cover)? It'll be really interesting to see how you find it on the RB30.

Lithium.

I have the GT3076r .6 port shroud comp cover with the .82 IW rear. Should be good to see how it goes as I'm going to see what its got, then shove a little water/meth injection on it and see what I can really squeeze out of it.

-----------

Here's the before/after pic.

Its all smooth to feel even the stud lumps. The dremel is at the old mans so I tried my luck with supercheap drill stones; they worked quite well. :sleep:

I've since smoothed out the stud lumps even more so; the wastegate area was quite smooth so I didn't bother with that.

I'm waiting on a T3 spacer from MTQ; I got the head back last week so not long now. :O

post-382-1184042977_thumb.jpg

Here's the before/after pic.

Its all smooth to feel even the stud lumps. The dremel is at the old mans so I tried my luck with supercheap drill stones; they worked quite well. :D

I've since smoothed out the stud lumps even more so, the wastegate was quite smooth so I didn't bother with that.

I'm waiting on a T3 spacer from MTQ; I got the head back last week so not long now. :O

Looking very nice. I have a friend who likes the way the GT3076R behaves on my RB25DET and wonders what it'd be like on a 3litre. Well we both do... as I'm yet to 100% decide what to do when I get to the rebuild stage.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They usually get made by hand as part of any such swap.
    • Was planning on getting an R35 MAF and the adapter, should this be okay? Also any idea where I could get my hands on an intake pipe?
    • I mean yes, if you're starting from scratch on an unknown engine yes you don't need to be doing all kinds of math in the background but if you're doing relatively minor changes like AFM + injectors + boost up with some aftermarket turbos it takes quite a bit of math if you want to do something like maintain OEM fuel + timing tables but compressed and then a bit more load scale up top. I think I've spent too much time working on big engineering nightmares though so I'm a big fan of trying to constrain the scope of whatever work I'm doing as much as possible and trying to get it right before moving on. For example, a local owner just did the usual E85 + single turbo conversion to his R32 GTR and nearly burned his car to the ground doing some spirited driving up the local mountains. Turbine is unshielded and too close to the hood insulation. It's tough to balance "just get the project done" and "seemingly small details can cause massive setbacks I'm not willing to deal with".
    • No idea about Neil's steering wheel, but I have the same behaviour in the Stagea. I doubt it has ever been messed with so might be normal. Indicating to turn right at a roundabout and correcting even a little bit to the left to go around will cancel the indicator. Never considered it an issue other than it being a bit odd.
    • Does anyone know if this is off centered? Looks like it, when I indicate to go right, but turn my steering wheel slightly left it cancels (was always like that even before I started messing around with it) was wondering if anyone else has the same issue?
×
×
  • Create New...