Jump to content
SAU Community

How Long Did Your Quarantine Clearance Take? I've Been Stuck There For >1week


Recommended Posts

well, my car is now wearing a compliance plate!

Now its just got to get from Brisbane to Melbourne with TOLL, cant imagine it would take more than a week or two to get to melb?, then I've got to try and get it over to Tasmania

Was thinking of putting trade plates on to get it over on the spirit of Tasmania, but i think it might be easyer to get toll to bring it over

it turned out something with the paperwork was filled out wrong, but it took the government people a month to get back to them and tell them to fix the problem that takes 2 seconds to fix.

just a little update anyway, importing can be stressful, but i imagine the reward at the end might be worth it :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I recently bought over a R33, and i did the customs broking myself.

for the quarantine process it's always better to find out who the inspector was and get in touch with the particular inspector.

for me, car landed on a Monday, it was ready to be picked up on the Friday. (this was because the inspector that initially inspected the car is likely to have the final inspection for clearance)

i had to arrange a tow truck to pick up the car.

Apparently they are going hard on people using trade plates to move cars around.

anyone can shed some light on this? (i used to use trade plates)

in wa

Dealer plates are used for the following purposes:

* To test a vehicle following a repair

* To deliver a vehicle to or from a manufacturer, dealer, repairer or agent

* Driving a vehicle from a dealer's premises to that of a potential purchaser for the purpose of a test drive

* A trial by a potential purchaser of a vehicle or their employee for a period not exceeding 24 hours

* Delivery of a vehicle to a purchaser following a sale

* Attendance of a vehicle at a licensing or examination centre for the purpose of an examination or licensing of that vehicle

* Driving a vehicle for a purpose that Licensing Services at their discretion may approve in a particular case.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah apparently now in sydney they will not allow you to collect a car from the docks with a trade plate (which is the way I've always done it). BUT in NSW you are supposed to be able to drive a car to a workshop for the purposes of obtaining, or making the car ready for registration. so technically you should be able to drive a car from the docks to a workshop unregistered with or without the trade plate.

but as always I wouldn't be relying on an internet forum for legal/regulatory advice. contact the registering authority in your state and ask them. no point getting caught and telling the officer: "But the Beer Baron told me I could!!"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I'm up to approximately six weeks or a little more now, the car has apparently been cleared by customs at an inflated valuation, it was valuated twice and they came up with more $$$ then it was bought for in Japan.

No idea why all the cars had to be red-lined but I'll be happy when I eventually get to compliance :P

Another valuation is an option but if it is lower customs may or may not accept it so I just want my car out, its still a good price overall...

Regards,

Gareth

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on.
    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
    • Skip the concrete, we just need to smooth a field. Mark knows how to drive a grader Duncan   I reckon 100x100 flat area for skid pan style, and then some sort tracks for rally... Duncan's already got a rally car on the premises to...
    • Well, yeah, the RB26 is definitely that far off the mark. From a pure technology point of view it is closer to the engines of the 60s than it is to the engines of the last 10 years. There is absolutely nothing special about an RB26 that wasn't present in engines going all the way back to the 60s, except probably the four valve head. The bottom end is just bog standard Japanese stuff. The head is nothing special. Celicas in the 70s were the same thing, in 4cyl 2 valve form. The ITBs are nothing special when you consider that the same Celicas had twin Solexes on them, and so had throttle plates in the exact same place. There's no variable valve timing, no variable inlet manifold, which even other RBs had either before the 26 came out or shortly afterward. The ECU is pretty rude and crude. The only things it has going for it are that the physical structure was pretty bloody tough for a mass produced engine, the twin-turbos and ITBs made for a bit of uniqueness against the competition (and even Toyota were ahead on the twin turbs thing, weren't they?) and the electronic controls and measuring devices (ie, AFMs, CAS, etc) were good enough to make it run well. Oh, and it sounds better than almost anything else, ever. The VR38 is absolutely halfway between the RB generation and the current generation, so it definitely has a massive increase in the sophistication of the electronics, allowing for a lot more dynamic optimisation of mapping. Then there's things like metal treatments and other coatings on things, adoption of variable cam stuff, and a bunch of other little improvements that mean it has to be a better thing than the RB26. But I otherwise agree with you that it is approximately the same thing as a 26. But, skip forward another 10 years from that engine and then the things that I mentioned in previous post come out to play. High compression, massively sophisticated computers, direct injection, clever measuring sensors, etc etc. They are the real difference between trying to make big power with a 26 and trying to make big power with a S/B50/54 (or whatever the preferred BMW engine of the week is).
×
×
  • Create New...