Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Out of interest...

What mods have you guys got?

What petrol do you fill 'er up with?

How far do you get on your tank?

Auto or Manual?

City or Highway driving?

I've got a catback Impul Exhaust, Impul tuned ECU, K&N Air Filter.

I've been using BP ultimate extreme or whatever they call it.

Averaging around 450km's to a tank.

Auto

50/50 City and Highway

Edited by ScottKing GTS-4
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/174972-v35-coupe-fuel-econemy/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
Just got 648kms out of the last week n a half! :)

Driving to Byron Bay sitting on most speed limits I got 12.3 km/l or 8.1l/100km. Around town I get about 9.6km/l which is excellent from a 3.5l engine and 1550kg - results due partly from the low Cd of 0.28 and zero lift aerodynamics

  • 1 month later...
Driving to Byron Bay sitting on most speed limits I got 12.3 km/l or 8.1l/100km. Around town I get about 9.6km/l which is excellent from a 3.5l engine and 1550kg - results due partly from the low Cd of 0.28 and zero lift aerodynamics

Hi consider this.

My one shows up 6.4km/l or 16l/100km in sydney daily driving is way too high????

Does any one has any idear what is going on with that? Proberly with O2 senser?????

Hi consider this.

My one shows up 6.4km/l or 16l/100km in sydney daily driving is way too high????

Does any one has any idear what is going on with that? Proberly with O2 senser?????

Does seem quite high Frank,

I'm sitting on around 9.4km/L in sydney traffic. That's taking it quite easy though. But I love it, 70km's a day and the guage only moves a notch or so per day.

Cheers

Bobby

Does seem quite high Frank,

I'm sitting on around 9.4km/L in sydney traffic. That's taking it quite easy though. But I love it, 70km's a day and the guage only moves a notch or so per day.

Cheers

Bobby

Yeh, I think I need to get some details check as i am way to much on fuel,

What I am afraid is something in engine is wrong.

I need someone in inner west good at Skyline/350Z to check it.

Bobby, do you has any idear?

Yeh, I think I need to get some details check as i am way to much on fuel,

What I am afraid is something in engine is wrong.

I need someone in inner west good at Skyline/350Z to check it.

Bobby, do you has any idear?

send "scathing" a PM. He's had a bit of work done on his 350z so should be able to point you in the right direction.

  • 7 months later...

I have regularly been getting low 7's according to the computer over the past couple of months, all city driving, bumper to bumper, barely moving an hour each way. Is this where it should be, or is it too low? When I do get to drive on an open road (i.e. late at night), the economy is much better, around 10ish, so I'm assuming its just due to the traffic.

This is an interesting thread...

What driving styles do you guys use? If manual, what RPM do you shift at.

Also, what can we do (besides babying the throttle) to remain as economical as possible when not fanging around? Any good fuel economy mods?

Has anyone used anything other than 98 RON? The Yanks use 91 and seem to run fine?

US fuel is different as it has a different rating system. Off the top of my head I believe that 91 is close to the 98 we use.

My car is achieving fantastic fuel economy, with average klms per tank getting up in the very high 500's (without the fuel light glowing when filled). I recall one mid to high 600's tank, but that tank had a few fair few highway klms. I would love to do an open road trip as I am sure 800 could be possible.

I am fairly good, maybe baby it a little too much at times. I find that it does not need a lot of revs to get the job done (however do not under rev). I must look at my average shift points, as I do it more by sound and feel than anything else.

US fuel is different as it has a different rating system. Off the top of my head I believe that 91 is close to the 98 we use.

My car is achieving fantastic fuel economy, with average klms per tank getting up in the very high 500's (without the fuel light glowing when filled). I recall one mid to high 600's tank, but that tank had a few fair few highway klms. I would love to do an open road trip as I am sure 800 could be possible.

I am fairly good, maybe baby it a little too much at times. I find that it does not need a lot of revs to get the job done (however do not under rev). I must look at my average shift points, as I do it more by sound and feel than anything else.

Hey Graeme,

Yep I would agree, and am getting pretty much the same. When i had the auto i drove from Sydney to Canberra, reset the fuel computer and it said on a full tank i would get 800 and something, so your comment is spot on.

US fuel is different as it has a different rating system. Off the top of my head I believe that 91 is close to the 98 we use.

My car is achieving fantastic fuel economy, with average klms per tank getting up in the very high 500's (without the fuel light glowing when filled). I recall one mid to high 600's tank, but that tank had a few fair few highway klms. I would love to do an open road trip as I am sure 800 could be possible.

I am fairly good, maybe baby it a little too much at times. I find that it does not need a lot of revs to get the job done (however do not under rev). I must look at my average shift points, as I do it more by sound and feel than anything else.

Ahh, I didn't know that about US fuel, but Wikipedia to the rescue:

In most countries (including all of Europe and Australia) the "headline" octane that would be shown on the pump is the RON, but in the United States, Canada and some other countries the headline number is the average of the RON and the MON, sometimes called the Anti-Knock Index (AKI), Road Octane Number (RdON), Pump Octane Number (PON), or (R+M)/2. Because of the 8 to 10 point difference noted above, this means that the octane in the United States will be about 4 to 5 points lower than the same fuel elsewhere: 87 octane fuel, the "regular" gasoline in the US and Canada, would be 91-92 in Europe. However most European pumps deliver 95 (RON) as "regular", equivalent to 90-91 US (R+M)/2, and even deliver 98 (RON) or 100 (RON).

According to this, US 91 RON is close to our 95-96. Interesting.

Are you doing City kms for the high 500s??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
    • As I said, there's trade offs to jamming EVERYTHING in. Timing, resources etc, being the huge ones. Calling out the factory ECU has nothing to do with it, as it doesn't do any form of fancy boost control. It's all open loop boost control. You mention the Haltech Nexus, that's effectively two separate devices jammed into one box. What you quote about it, is proof for that. So now you've lost flexibility as a product too...   A product designed to do one thing really well, will always beat other products doing multiple things. Also, I wouldn't knock COTS stuff, you'd be surprised how many things are using it, that you're probably totally in love with As for the SpaceX comment that we're working directly with them, it's about the type of stuff we're doing. We're doing design work, and breaking world firsts. If you can't understand that I have real world hands on experience, including in very modern tech, and actually understand this stuff, then to avoid useless debates where you just won't accept fact and experience, from here on, it seems you'd be be happy I (and possibly anyone with knowledge really) not reply to your questions, or input, no matter how much help you could be given to help you, or let you learn. It seems you're happy reading your data sheets, factory service manuals, and only want people to reinforce your thoughts and points of view. 
    • I don't really understand because clearly it's possible. The factory ECU is running on like a 4 MHz 16-bit processor. Modern GDI ECUs have like 200 MHz superscalar cores with floating point units too. The Haltech Nexus has two 240 MHz CPU cores. The Elite 2500 is a single 80 MHz core. Surely 20x the compute means adding some PID boost control logic isn't that complicated. I'm not saying clock speed is everything, but the requirements to add boost control to a port injection 6 cylinder ECU are really not that difficult. More I/O, more interrupt handlers, more working memory, etc isn't that crazy to figure out. SpaceX if anything shows just how far you can get arguably doing things the "wrong" way, ie x86 COTS running C++ on Linux. That is about as far away from the "correct" architecture as it gets for a real time system, but it works anyways. 
×
×
  • Create New...