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hey guys,

i tried checking to see if this was mentioned. I'm putting the RB26 head on my RB30. What tensioners do I use when using the two lower tensioner locations instead of drill tapping a hole near the top flat portion.

I have a gates power grip GT2 150 tooth belt, and it's pretty damn sturdy, so i'll just make a thin piece of metal that separates the two teethed sides in the case of any belt flap or what have you.

so i've noticed that nismoparts.com has two different tensioners. both RB20/25, and 26. someone told me that if i use the RB26 head, i should use the 26 tensioners, but im not sure if the stud or the construction of the tensioner is the same or if the RB30 block itself is suited to RB25 tensioners rather than 26 ones.

Let me know, i want to order everything soon :-D

NA high compression RB30DE on it's way...

Thanks dudes!

Raff

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I thought they were all the same. I use the rb30 ones, but its a good idea to get genuine ones, as they are double row bearings instead of single row. You may want to use two tensioners instead of an idler/tensioner, as it will give you more tension adjustment(and save some $$$)]

I thought they were all the same. I use the rb30 ones, but its a good idea to get genuine ones, as they are double row bearings instead of single row. You may want to use two tensioners instead of an idler/tensioner, as it will give you more tension adjustment(and save some $$$)]

OK, so i'll just order two RB26 ones then, or whatever's cheaper =/

thanks Ad.

They are the same item.

Call rolling bearings with the part number (do a search on the forum for them) and use the stock NSK bearings. $120 for the pair.

I can get the Nissan OEM ones for less than that here in Canada, shipped from the US.

it will be about 100 CAD when said and done.

nismoparts.com

I didn't bother looking at nismoparts as the name nismo usually implies uberexpensive. They clearly don't have much of a clue if they are selling the items as suiting different applications. RB are all the same.

Plus, since you are OS it would help to put your location in the bit over on the left, so I don't waste time giving useless (to you) information.

Cheers

  • 3 weeks later...

I replaced my set of tensioners when I recently pulled the head off.

After 60,000km's they were pretty shagged. I was running one single row bearing type and a double row nissan type. Both were just as stuffed. Crunchy and noisy when you'd spin it.

BUT saying that; I was slack; I ran with the gap inbetween the cam belt covers. I was 'gonna' fix it. Ahh well that will teach me lol.

  • 4 weeks later...
I replaced my set of tensioners when I recently pulled the head off.

After 60,000km's they were pretty shagged. I was running one single row bearing type and a double row nissan type. Both were just as stuffed. Crunchy and noisy when you'd spin it.

BUT saying that; I was slack; I ran with the gap inbetween the cam belt covers. I was 'gonna' fix it. Ahh well that will teach me lol.

What make was the single row bearing type, and is that the difference between the RB26 and 25 versions?

which nissan part number is the double row, I can cross it in the Nissan FAST system.

Thanks cubenator!

I have since noticed the VL tensioner runs a wider and larger dia. bearing than the RB20 tensioner.

They were both NTK bearings; the RB20 had a smaller dia bearing compared to the VL tensioner; inside the VL bearing had 2 rows of ball bearings.

I have seen 2 types of rb20 tensioners; one isn't servicable and runs a narrower and smaller dia bearing the other is servicable and runs the same VL dia but a narrower bearing.

The Rb20 idlers run a smaller dia bearing but run 2 bearings side by side which in width is greater than that of the single vl tensioner bearing; but only just.

No idea on the part numbers nothing is stamped on them apart from the NTK bearing number. :P

I'll see if I can get some pics.

It appears the origional tensioners on the rb30 from factory ran the good wider bearings; the ones you buy now from holden use the narrow bearing within the tensioner which is the same as what was on the rb20 I have sitting in the shed.

So at one point some one shoved a cheap holden tensioner on it.

So I'd say the tensioners to get are the genuine origional VL ones that are servicable. or just buy from Nissan for a couple hundred lol.

I think I remember the idler from nissan was up over $200!! and the tensioner slightly under. Its been some time but they were damn expensive.

I run the 2 x origional RB30 factory tensioners with the bigger bearings. The 2 I sold recently were also the bigger bearing type. :wave:

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