Power Fc In A 25t Rs Four "s"

[EGA41T]

Below is the wiring diagram which enables the power fc to function properly in a manual stagea without throwing the engine checklight.

I have used this wiring circuit in three series 2 25t rs four "s" stageas, all with great results.

However i cannot attest to its viability in a converted series 1 manual stagea.

[beastien]

Hey Andy, I figured out something similar to achieve the same results.

I just put a 510k ohm resistor from pin 51 on the ECU to ground, because pin 51 has around 5V coming out of it

and you just have to lower that voltage to around 3.7v to turn off the engine check light.

It seemed to affect the idle slightly aswell, did you notice that?

But besides that, it runs fine, just have to get my cold start sorted out.

[darrinspencer]

Thanks Andy, I will being needing this in 4-5 weeks

[oxford1327]

i can attest to the workability of the "secret squirrel tweak" as i have it installed on my car and it is easy to fit and allows you to tune the power fc as you would in any other car.

cheers oxford

[rev210]

series 2 mod only then?

[Duncan]

I hope not lol need it very shortly myself

[beastien]

I can confirm that the method that I have used in a series one converted to manual

does work.

But if the method Andy has shown is a better way of doing it, I'll give it a go.

Anyone know if it would be the better way of doing it?

[marc2]

Thanks Andy, just what I needed.

Oh, by the way, congrats on selling the car.

[momo]

Thanks

[EGA41T]

Hey Andy, I figured out something similar to achieve the same results.

I just put a 510k ohm resistor from pin 51 on the ECU to ground, because pin 51 has around 5V coming out of it

and you just have to lower that voltage to around 3.7v to turn off the engine check light.

It seemed to affect the idle slightly aswell, did you notice that?

But besides that, it runs fine, just have to get my cold start sorted out.

I can confirm that the method that I have used in a series one converted to manual

does work.

But if the method Andy has shown is a better way of doing it, I'll give it a go.

Anyone know if it would be the better way of doing it?

i have no problems with idle or any other side effects.

the way it works is that the zener diode (or diode's if you use a combination to achieve 10.3V) have a break over voltage of 10.3V, meaning that only 3.7V (14-10.3) or there abouts makes it to pin 51. the resistor to earth is to stop any current from flowing through the ECU.

[beastien]

My cold start is a bit funny as it still needs sorting out, but once it's warm it idles fine.

What I noticed was that when I put the resistor in, the idle changed (lower or higher not 100% sure now).

But I might give your method a go when I get some spare time, see if it makes any difference.

[Duncan]

umm real basic question...do I need a 33 gtst or 34 gtt PFC for a Series 1?

[wolverine]

i believe the plug on the S1 is the same as the R34 GT-t therefore i believe you will need the R34 GT-t Powerfc.

[rev210]

so the R34GTT power FC and this mod does the trick for a series 1?

[wolverine]

the R34 powerFc pin 51 goes to the traction control so if you plug it in it will run the engine no problems (at least on a series 2 stagea and presumably on a series 1) but the engine check light will be lit. EGA4IT's circuit will provide the 3.7V to get rid of the checklight.

[beastien]

Well the mod I did wasn't exactly the same, but I'm running an R34GTT PFC in a series one

and it runs fine, 242rwkw says it all.

[wolverine]

see above.

Edited July 4, 2007 by wolverine

[silva33]

Guys how does the PFC react to the GTR gearbox and 4x4?? Are there any long term issues assosiated with this mod and the driveline?? Does the GTR PFC control the Atessa in anyway and if so I would asume the GTT PFC wouldn't do the same job?

Cheers

Dave

[GoldZilla]

Guys how does the PFC react to the GTR gearbox and 4x4?? Are there any long term issues assosiated with this mod and the driveline?? Does the GTR PFC control the Atessa in anyway and if so I would asume the GTT PFC wouldn't do the same job?

Cheers

Dave

If you're still thinking of getting the Autech Stagea, then the PFC for an R33 GT-R will work regardless of if you buy the series 1 or series 2 Stagea. It's a direct fit and no mods need to be made.

If you're getting a series 2 RS-Four S, then I believe that once you've done the mod outlined by EGA41T, wolverine and beastien, then you won't have to worry about the ATTESA - the ATTESA control is separate.

[unique1]

The attessa can be run by any ecu easy, all it needs is the TPS wire split into 2 and one goto the ecu and the other to the wire than runs to the rear attessa ecu to give it the tps signal. 4wd will work perfectly this works on haltech, autronics, wolf, etc. I have done it and it works perfectly.

ill find the colour of the wire that u need to connect the tps signal too and post it on the forums for future reference

Edited October 13, 2007 by unique1