Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey ya'll, i like many people have a bit of a crunchy box - gearbox that is.

The most apparent and common crunch is definitely 1st -> 2nd.

we all know it gets better as things warm up, but while it's cold (and even while its warmed up for that matter) give double clutching a go!

you can do it with a little throttle blip if you really want a'la double-down-shifting, but it's not really necessary in everday driving.

instead of just:

pushing in the clutch; and

shifting the stick down through neutral to second

release clutch

do this:

push the clutch in (doesn't have to go all the way)

move the stick from 1st to neutral

release clutch briefly

push clutch in again

shift from neutral to 2nd

release clutch

it takes a while but if you are used to double down-shifting, it should be a breeze. if you're not used to it - it's a great way to get used to the motion of double-clutching and will put you in good stead to start double down-shifting and start saving your clutch and synchros.

i know this has been mentioned before in other "crunchy gearbox" threads, but i thought i would bring some attention to it as maybe there are other people who are nursing their gearbox and/or clutch until they can afford to replace them.

cheers

eh? didnt you miss the step where you blip on the throttle as your in neutral, just before u shift into 2nd?

In cold mornings it wont even shift into 2nd for me. Pop it into neutral, a slight blip on the throttle, and then it easily slides into 2nd :)

yeah i mentioned that you can if you want, but just driving around town, throttle blipping when up shifting isn't usually necessary.

however if it helps your changes i'm not going to tell you not to do it :)

Edited by made_guy
But really, its not how its meant to work, and your gearbox is shagged, its time to look at getting it fixed as all you are doing is masking the problem.

lol yeah a rebuilt gearbox is somewhere on the to-do list.

but in the mean time, best to squeeze as much life out of the current one before it dies ;)

Isn't this general knowledge?

my box is a bit like that in the cold... i could use some new gearbox oil though... very common skyline problem...

i heard that its normally 2nd to 3rd though... i think they said that on Top Gear :)

but yeah, gearbox still works, its just a minor annoyance... no need for a whole new gearbox...

I always double clutch down thru gears in my car. My gear box in my subaru 4WD lasted me bout 420,000km ish before i swapped it out by driving in this style. Mydad used to have the car so he done bout half of the kms but i stretched its life out by always double clutch.

Only reason i took gear box outta the car is because the syncro's were screwed and was starting to get a bit of a handfull to use. Also i had a spare kicking round with only 150,000kms on it, so it only made sense to change the rooted one out.

But yeah i would easy make it too 500,000 kms if i kept up with the double clutchin.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which manifold mate? Meanwhile......Mark is wondering how bonnet vents would look on the NC 🤣
    • Actually,  just remembered there should be info in the threads (somewhere) about swapping to a manual steering rack and deleting power steering all together. 
    • Also had a look at the Nissan JP website looks like the 400r has a slightly shorter ratio than than the regular V37 3.133 VS 2.937 which from a guy who has driven both 3.69 vs 4.11 ratios in the S15 is bugger all. Seems that the AUTO Z runs the same ratio as the 400R but can't find any info as to if its an open or LSD? More often than not the auto LSD is open
    • Do not replace the power steering lines with this stuff. If it's anything like the Chase Bays stuff it will leak and be worse than stock. The reason why the reservoir is on the LH/passenger side of the car is because that's just where the reservoir was most convenient to fit. Don't overthink this stuff. The intake/cold side of the engine is pretty busy on these cars. And again, the hardpipe is designed to be a janky power steering cooler. In theory you can replace it with a real power steering cooler but that's really only for track use where boiling the fluid is a distinct possibility. Start with the low pressure lines feeding the pump from the reservoir. Make sure there isn't a bunch of junk in the reservoir filter. Be careful to not get ATF all over the engine bay. I hate dealing with ATF spills, you can clean it up and the slightest crevice will still release more oil that can still drip over time. You also want to inspect for leaks before you make a mess and can't tell what happened. Most likely you have a leak somewhere that is allowing fluid out and air in. Failing that it's allowing air in but not fluid out. Only place I can really see that happening is on the low pressure side because the pump will pull a slight vacuum to draw fluid in. Everything after the pump is high pressure or lower pressure, approaching atmospheric by the time it returns to the reservoir.
    • I did a skidpan night at SMSP this week, it was much cheaper than $350. But yeah, you need to slap an LSD in that thing.  I put an OS Giken in the 370Z and it's f**king MARVELOUS even compared to Nissan's viscous LSD. So you're saying it's free now that it's a housing estate? 😂
×
×
  • Create New...