Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I got a shitty ebay front mount IM just in the process of mounting it. I was wondering where do I need to cut from looking at it it seems a hole needs to be cut below the washer bottle and a section of the reo (metal support bar) needs to be cut to fit the actual cooler is this correct?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175651-hooking-up-ebay-front-mount/
Share on other sites

I've fitted 2 front mounts on 34's. An ARC and a Trust. Both requird minor amounts of cutting. Best advise I can give you is remove your front bar reo (mark it's position before you do it) and then fit the front mount and work out how much you'll need to trim by trying to re-fit the reo. That manul is pretty good though, you should be right, just allow a lot of time :thumbsup: Good luck!

Look at this link.. this guy asked same question..

READ THIS......

Now you will have to start learning how to use the search ..

Its a lot quicker than waiting for a answer....

Good luck..

And dont keep saying you love me ..people will start to talk.. :laughing-smiley-014: :thumbsup:

Lol sorry wayne he he he okay guys got it all done without too many hassles. Ill post up some pics later. one small problem though under boost and only occasionally one of the hoses will blow off. This used to happen on my old tx5 and was caused by the spring on my bov being too tight same thing or something else?

yeah did that even went to the extent of using the air gun still coming off..other than that everything is running great car seems to be boosting a bit more (according to the gauge) so im gonna turn the boost controller right down.

did have a small problem with the top pipe hitting the fan but thats fixed now.

thanks for all your help guys greatly appreciated.

im very fortunate too the cooler hasnt meant i have any fully sik flutter.. so im happy with that.

by the way I wasnt quite as silly as the other guy leaving the boost controller hose disconnected I just plummed it into one of the silcon joiners on the cooler piping till i found a better spot.. which is now on the fuel regulator line.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, this is probably where a wiring diagram and a multimeter come into play.
    • I can say to anyone thats doing this; having done a number of R clusters; just be careful if its an unknown cluster.  It takes a bit of force to pull up; but if it feels excessive then its probably stuck. I've had this and pulled the entire hair spring out; and I can tell you; its not easy getting the correct spring replacement with the correct inner diameter and winding. In my case someone had used some sort of adhesive to stick it to the spindle and it pulled the whole spindle out; which the force seperated the hairspring from the spindal and caused it to deform.  You may have to clean it (IPA); or in my case if i'd known i should have used some sort of solvent on it.  Also check out Cruizin Central on eBay. He does all sorts of dials; and you can email him with any custom designs you want. So if you want like certain logos etc...he'll send you a mock of what it will look like then you accept the order and he'll take care of the rest. Fantastic dials and he can do basically any design you want. 
    • Have you confirmed its the actual axles? Also the wheel bearings that mount on the hubs to hold the axles wear out. I replaced mine as they got play in them. It sorted my play issue. 
    • Ive converted a few clusters for the R33 with 320km/h dials. On the back there are some pads which can be bridged or unbridged (using solder or wick braid) to calibrate it. There is one bridge which is for MPH <> KPH; and there are combinations of bridges to offset it. There is probably a diagram  For example; this is my conversion for a 180km/h dial to a 320km/h dial (I put custom GT-R dials on it with the GTS25t layout) If you have J2 soldered (assuming the S clusters have a similar config to the R clusters); you may need to remove that solder
    • Back on topic 😉, these are some of the notable pages from the booklets that are supplied with each weekly parts update. I never knew the BNR32 test mule car had an S13 Silvia front end... *Edit: On closer inspection the test car still had the R32 body, but only the front end had Silvia panels etc.
×
×
  • Create New...