Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

There a nice car, i dunno how people can bag em!

there a comfy car, and have alot of balls, they only need a tweak and they can be very quick..

for reliabilty there awesome as long as you look after it. Its a personal choice, so pick what YOU want. Turbos have a big novelty Ls1's are just sheer grunt and balls.

i think its a personal thing and evryone has different taste, but id keep the skyline 4 sure

yeah def a personal thing....(probably gonna get flamed), but after the skyline it will be back to the 4 cylinder class for me again. Others have said, after driving a 6, you cant go back to a 4, and after driving an 8, you cant go back to a 6 - probably true. But the overall cost of living is getting higher every year, makes me wonder how I would be able to afford a fast car after the r33..... :thumbsup:

forgot to add: R33GOD - if everything works out in terms of running costs etc - then go for it.

about 2 months ago the same thought flashed across my head..

keep driving a modded 15+year old car and pour money into keeping it running

or

get a newer car with no mods, no cop hassles, newer, more luxurious etc. etc.

...its a logical move as you get older

that's why i got a V35 350GT.. its still a skyline, handles awesome, and, yes, its as powerful as my R32 GTSt.. its amazing to drive and surprisingly got quite a lot of balls for a NA V6.. drive one and you will put a deposit down i guarantee it :thumbsup:

post-2094-1183865457_thumb.jpg

post-2094-1183865466_thumb.jpg

post-2094-1183865545_thumb.jpg

Edited by WazR32GTSt

Do some research on VT II-VX piston slap damage. The first versions of LS1 had faults and needed to be rebuild, sometimes more han once. It was a bit of nuisance when they were under new car warranty but now they are no longer covered. It will come out of your pocket. Not all early LS1s had this fault but there were enough...

Ls1 does go hard, Ive driven a VX LS1 ute and it flew, stock.

Their priced around 25-30 grand now... more if you want a clean one. So I dont think you will lose much money if you want to sell it a year or two down the line.

I used to be into Holdens a while ago until I discovered imports.

i love my skyline, looks good, goes great but im thinkin of changing cause i spend too much money on it, and the clubby, less attention from the cops. i was going to buy a bmw but there just crap..and no guts lol
If you are into modding, you will not stop if you but the HSV. lol Go to ls1 forums and youll see lol

i work for holden and have for a while, i have driven basically all of them including most of the VE HSV range, for what it's worth i really dont rate them. Handling is nothing like a jap car and they are really not fuel efficent. i used to have a twin turbo supra and i have been in alot of GTR's and you cant beat these as a complete package. handle well are quick and better on fuel. It just depends what you want but i suggest you take them for a test drive before you make your decision, then you will know what i mean.

The clubsport is good in a straight line torquey down low but just not exciting to drive.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So been ocd with timing mark but checked from few angle and seems both cam are on and crank is matching as well to the slot on sump and crank pully   i noticed crankshaft cover has been robbed as per attached pic. Any ideas why? Could my balancer or harmonic be on its way out? should I replace the cover? https://ibb.co/ZR1JFYRR
    • So now doing the change and first time dealing with rb so little nervous giving engine power and potential for screwing it up When you align all marks and then remove crank bolt, timing move little I assume you can put the bolt back in once you have removed the pully to get timing to where you want?   here is pic of my both intake and exchust cam aligned, depending on angle you look they seem to be either aligned or a half tooth or so out. Any thoughts? Should you angle your face and look at each mark that way as if looking straight rather than from above as it can be misleading   <a href="https://ibb.co/ZpnhcvbF"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/HfWrGR9b/IMG-4447.jpg" alt="IMG-4447" border="0"></a> <a href="https://ibb.co/4wm2wn4q"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/JWBqWwr1/IMG-4445.jpg" alt="IMG-4445" border="0"></a>   https://ibb.co/ZpnhcvbF https://ibb.co/4wm2wn4q
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy Haven't really thought of that yet, but you are right. If the hose was damaged it should be absolutely pissing by now. I'll put some heat sleeve around it for good measure since I'm already removing the line anyway.  Maybe I'll put on some of the stock hardlines if I ever fully remove the turbos again. Maybe when T51R modding the compressor housings? Might be a fun mod on GT28s for that "fake single turbo" effect.
    • Update 1: I did some work on the car already before finalizing this post and my "issues" list. I dropped the Tomei exhaust in favor of the HKS Hi Power Silent. Sounds nice and I can actually hear myself think now. Also gives me a realistic chance to legally drive without silencer inserts. A bit of cheating was necessary to still be able to mount the Top Secret style diffuser. Some malusage of washers and a bit of "convincing" toward the brackets and exhaust hanger seemed to do the trick. The shaky steering wheel has been resolved as various suspension components were worn, like sway bar bushings and link bars. Most notably the two steering tie rod ends. Had some trouble finding bushings because my sway bars are not OEM thickness, 23.x up front and 27 rear. But non adjustable, so no aftermarket I suppose. Maybe they are nismo units? Turbo oil drain hoses were definitely still the originals and are new now. Wasn't the cause of the turbo oil leak sadly. Currently removing the rear turbo because of it, I suspect the braided oil feed line is the culprit. This issue needs to be dealt with so I can work towards actually getting the turbo setup legal and inspected. Two new issues to add to the list as well. Rear Main seal is probably leaking. Time will show how bad it is, I don't really want to drop the gearbox right now just for the stupid seal. Could fix a few other things in one go once I do that. Front right driveshaft grease is going past the cv boot, so at some point I'll fix that too.
    • Ok so no 4cyl clutch... Yeah it is a factory manual. So if iam correct i need clutch and flywheel too? I can use something that suits something like R32 GTST?   EDIT: https://www.ebay.com/itm/224291042776 Is this ok?   EDIT2: i maybe forget to mention this(dk how important it is) but the trans will be behind RB25DET NEO(iam doing swap) It will be there for a little while. Iam planing to do bigbox or BMW tranny..
×
×
  • Create New...