Jump to content
SAU Community

About To Go Do The Hks Gt-rs Route

nsta

By nsta,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

nsta Mentor

nsta

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys, just need to know if theres anything ill need to support the hks gt-rsturbo kit against what i have now

Heres my current mods:

R33 skyline gts25t series 1 '94

3" exhaust into split dump pipe

hybrid FMIC

Apexi pod

Splitfire coilpacks and ngk bcpr6es

new fuel filter

bosch 040 fuel pump

sau boost tap

stock ecu

stock turbo running 10psi

Im aiming for around 250rwkw......heres a list of things i dont know whether i need or not:

nismo injectors(550 or 700cc)

apexi powerfc

new head gasket

Fuel pressure regulator

turbo manifold?

And my other question:

whats involved in the replacement from stock to hks gt-rsturbo kit?and does the kit come with everything ill need to bolt it all straight up?, is it a low turbo mount(will i need to change the manifold)?, and how much labour involved approx, im thinking of doing it all myself.

I know alot of people on here have done it, i just want to do it right the first time, meaning i will buy all the supporting mods now, instead of headaches in the long run....need some real world advice thats all.

Car is mainly street, never sees track work, and is on toyo t1rs 235/265, with coilovers and camber bushes for the rear, still a bit of suspension work to do.

Edited by nsta
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175688-about-to-go-do-the-hks-gt-rs-route/
Share on other sites
PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted

Im waiting on my GT-RS as we speak (should be here in a week), its a direct bolt on to everything and comes with new lines that you will have to put on. To get the most out of it you will need an aftermarket ECU and bigger injectors (550cc will be enough). Shouldnt need a fuel pressure regulator if you get the bigger injectors but it can help for tuning. Head gasket is not really needed to lower compression untill u start getting near 270-300, even then some people dont go a different head gasket.

Good turbo choice :)

Adriano Grand Master

Adriano

Posted
Posted
Im waiting on my GT-RS as we speak (should be here in a week), its a direct bolt on to everything and comes with new lines that you will have to put on. To get the most out of it you will need an aftermarket ECU and bigger injectors (550cc will be enough). Shouldnt need a fuel pressure regulator if you get the bigger injectors but it can help for tuning. Head gasket is not really needed to lower compression untill u start getting near 270-300, even then some people dont go a different head gasket.

Good turbo choice :)

Agreed, but definately dont get a fuel pressure reg.

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted

ECU and Injectors are a MUST to get full potential out of the turbo/engine.

The GT-RS kit is made to be a straight bolt on. In the Jap instructions you'll see that it would still bolt on to the std airbox, smic, and ext manifold :thumbsup:.

At a later stage (if you want more power) i also recommend fitting the Tomei Poncams; these sticks work great with the turbo.

Below are a couple of my graphs, but i have the Poncams and extensive head porting (neither are needed, but do produce more power). Ignore the red line, in the graph, as the graph was done as a comparison between two different exhaust systems (red was my previous sys). The blue line was my final tune on 18psi.

post-1811-1183858520_thumb.jpg

post-1811-1183858541_thumb.jpg

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted

A GT-SS on a rb25det is too small.

The smallest i'd go would be a GT2530, but you'd only get about 210-220rwkw. Responsive as all hell though :thumbsup:

Just to let ppl know: Extensive head porting will introduce a little more lag into the system (about 400rpm)

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted
sweet!, let me know how your goes mate, im after the most responsive setup i can get, and i thik the gtrs fits the bill perfect....alright, ill keep the injectors in mind

Yeah no worries dude ill let you know. Ill just be running the standard ECU and standard injectors for now and see how far i can push that setup. If it's not good enough for the time being ill chuck the SAFC on there untill i get some money for a Power FC and 550cc Nismo injectors. Then the fun will begin :P

Adriano Grand Master

Adriano

Posted
Posted
ECU and Injectors are a MUST to get full potential out of the turbo/engine.

The GT-RS kit is made to be a straight bolt on. In the Jap instructions you'll see that it would still bolt on to the std airbox, smic, and ext manifold :P.

At a later stage (if you want more power) i also recommend fitting the Tomei Poncams; these sticks work great with the turbo.

Below are a couple of my graphs, but i have the Poncams and extensive head porting (neither are needed, but do produce more power). Ignore the red line, in the graph, as the graph was done as a comparison between two different exhaust systems (red was my previous sys). The blue line was my final tune on 18psi.

Awesome power curve, congrats dude

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted
Yeah no worries dude ill let you know. Ill just be running the standard ECU and standard injectors for now and see how far i can push that setup. If it's not good enough for the time being ill chuck the SAFC on there untill i get some money for a Power FC and 550cc Nismo injectors. Then the fun will begin :domokun:

STOP!!!!!!!!

What are you doing man?!?!

Get the ecu first, before the turbo, and run about 12psi on the std turbo.

The ecu will unlock soooo much torque and power, it will feel like a new turbo :thumbsup: It was one of my best upgrades, second only to the turbo, which should be done after the ecu.

You'll also need a new, bigger, fuel pump when you get the turbo; possibly before hand, depending how good/worn your std one is.

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted
Awesome power curve, congrats dude

Thanks buddy.

Only had it like that for about 5000km before my std bottom end gave up after a track day (low compression in #3: 83psi) :(. But car is only used on weekends(sometimes) and events. Done a couple of motokhanas, cruises and one track day, then oil out the new B&M pod :domokun: . But i do drive it hard at these events :P.

Now rb30det, with GT30R(500hp) (gt-rs too small for the rb30), greddy plenum and a few extra goodies. Only going for about 280-300rwkw, but will hit full boost (20psi) by about 3300rpm and make power till the 8000rpm rev limit :thumbsup:

The GT30R was the smallest recommended turbo for this setup.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...