Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I'm building a list of items to fit in one go to my R32 GTR.

List so far is:

- HKS GT-SS Turbo Kit

- Trust - Greddy - Extension Front Pipe

- APEXi - Power FC & Hand Controller

- HKS - Cam Pulley - Duralumin intake and exhaust

- Power Enterprise - Super Strong Timing Belt

Already on:

- APEXi AVC-R boost control

- APEXi super happy power intake

My queries:

1. Injectors / boost level - Not sure how much boost to run as yet I guess racepace will have a good recommendation - however - what are others running with these turbos and are the stock GTR injectors up to the task?

2. Exhaust - Does anyone have the trust front pipes and what did they use for the rest of the system? how is it?

I need:

a) a high flow cat and b) rest of exhaust that will bolt up - I don't want to muck around with getting flanges changed etc

I much prefer the thing being quiet as well - which does not seem to agree with the jap exhaust market

Recommendations peeps!!

Edited by paulR32gtr
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175697-r32-gtr-upgrades/
Share on other sites

well to get the most of the set-up I would add:

fuel pump (nismo)

sard 700cc injectors

nismo or Z32 afms

basically any 32 GTR system will (should) bolt up to the Greddy front pipes. I would suggest an 80mm or bigger system would be the go.

I have the same set up but with GT2530's insead of GT-SS's, and I have nismo AFM's. I didn't upgrade my fuel pump, or injectors. But I would recomend it. I have a 80mm cat back hooked up to my trust pipes, just boldted straight up. i'd recomend 80mm or bigger, as the trust pipe has a 80mm exit.

cool thanks for the info all

Pity I need to upgrade the fuel system but them's the breaks - want to do this properly and all at once. Gives me a good excuse to get rid of the leaky factory injectors anyhow.

So im adding

- Nismo fuel pump

- 2 x Nismo AFM's

- 700cc SARD injectors

- Trust PEII cat back and ill sort out a cat over here

Now I just gotta get it past management :dry: and i'm away - too easy

If Ben is doing the work i'd chat to him first about the exhaust :dry:

Also the other parts, depending on what you need, you dont "need" AFM's.

Ferni doesnt, he is another Racepace GT-SS setup with stock injectors/AFMs. There are a few small tricks, so have a chat first is my suggestion before purchasing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...