Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys my name is Craig :rant: .

I'm building the RB30dohc

Was wondering what inlet plenum would be best suited 4 this setup other then goin custom ?

Even turb setup, injectors manifold etc pls

96 R33 RB25 head.

Edited by HR31DRFT
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175812-my-rb30dohc-build/
Share on other sites

You dont say which "DOHC" ?

Easiest would be to go with the orig std setup, but as someone who has built a custom Intake plenum I would say it may not be worth the expense for the gain in performance.

I was never able to quantify the results from mine unfortunately as I fitted it with many other mods at the same time, but I dont think it made much diference except in looks and presentation.

Though it did enhance the FMIC fitting with no unesessary longer I/C pipes etc.

Definitely look at a R26 head and its std plenum.

Rb25 head for ~$1000 + ~$700-900 for a decent plenum.

That 2k can go a long way in buying a good rb26dett head and its std plenum and better factory cams.

Got this 25de head 4 $400

Was gona go 26 but found it hard 2 get complete. Covers etc this stuff can be a bitch 2 get in parts.

I dont mind goin the greddy plenum, 10k has been put aside 4 the engine build, already have block + head, rods, N1 water + oil pump.

N still have 10k hehe, i kind of like keeping 10k in my bank 4 as long as i can :rant:

I was gonna go Borneo setup, but alot of custom work what will be a headf*k.

I only want around 300-350 atw but 4 a while :rant:

As turboX said which head are you using?? RB25, 20, 26?

turboX your plenum looks pretty intersting any links to the build??

Just follow the link on my sig below and go to my website listed at the bottom -there's about three pages on it.

Got this 25de head 4 $400

now somoene please correct me if im wrong..

By using a DE head.. you will have NA compression.. So.. about 10:1.

Because your going turbo.. you will have an turbo engine with a 10:1 comp ratio.. so.. you wont be able top push alot of boost though it.. engine longitivity will be greatly sacraficed.. and chances are.. your going to blow your head (hahaha)

Does the engine get its comp ratio via the head or the pistons/cylinders?

just a passing thought.. :dry:

Car is fully decked out in suspension love.

Kaaz 2way hehe fun times.

Its actually 300-350 hp not kw

Car is awesome now, dont need anymore power from the rb20 but i want 2 build a engine.

RB30dohc POWER

This bitch is gonna be sick.

now somoene please correct me if im wrong..

By using a DE head.. you will have NA compression.. So.. about 10:1.

Because your going turbo.. you will have an turbo engine with a 10:1 comp ratio.. so.. you wont be able top push alot of boost though it.. engine longitivity will be greatly sacraficed.. and chances are.. your going to blow your head (hahaha)

Does the engine get its comp ratio via the head or the pistons/cylinders?

just a passing thought.. :dry:

Lumpy is building the engine, i'll leave that up 2 him.

Compresion ratio's will be adjusted 4 optimum performance, but like i said thats 4 the gurus...

I dont like talkin about stuff i dont have a full quid on.

Lumpy is building the engine, i'll leave that up 2 him.

Compresion ratio's will be adjusted 4 optimum performance, but like i said thats 4 the gurus...

I dont like talkin about stuff i dont have a full quid on.

Nice answere.. should tell that to the people that like to talk shit..

Keep us updated!..

be fantastic to see how she runs!..

Good luck and keep the details comming!

now somoene please correct me if im wrong..

By using a DE head.. you will have NA compression.. So.. about 10:1.

Because your going turbo.. you will have an turbo engine with a 10:1 comp ratio.. so.. you wont be able top push alot of boost though it.. engine longitivity will be greatly sacraficed.. and chances are.. your going to blow your head (hahaha)

Does the engine get its comp ratio via the head or the pistons/cylinders?

just a passing thought.. :dry:

NA head is fine; it won't affect comp ratio as that is achieved by the domed pistons the N/A motor uses.

Drop the head on a N/A RB30E bottom end and you will end up with around the usual 8.2-8.3:1 comp ratio.

The N/A bottom end with the SOHC head achieves a 9:1 comp ratio; the DOHC lowers the comp from 9:1 to 8.2-8.3:1 because its combustion chamber is larger.

Yeh not rushing anything !!!

Building the engine in 2 parts...

Bottom 1st

All little bits like crank collar etc are goin 2 be used.

Using Mahle racing pistons

Head 2nd

Porting polishing work but really not much is required but doing anyway cuz i'm there u no.

Comp ratio's will be worked out so they are exact for fuel i'm using and what i'm doing with it.

But yeh havnt looked into it yet, just read and fully undestood the RB30dohc build guide.

As all says, a really good builder is assy the engine so i'm not gonna loose sleep over ratio's

I will blow the project out a couple of months if it takes, 2 get things exact or as close as poss.

No dead lines

Then paint :dry: lol

Thanks guys i appreciate the feedback

P.s i work at Coventry's so alot of gear is from here cutting costs big time.

U gotta cut at least 1 corner hey.

Yeh not rushing anything !!!

Building the engine in 2 parts...

Bottom 1st

All little bits like crank collar etc are goin 2 be used.

Using Mahle racing pistons

Head 2nd

Porting polishing work but really not much is required but doing anyway cuz i'm there u no.

Comp ratio's will be worked out so they are exact for fuel i'm using and what i'm doing with it.

But yeh havnt looked into it yet, just read and fully undestood the RB30dohc build guide.

As all says, a really good builder is assy the engine so i'm not gonna loose sleep over ratio's

I will blow the project out a couple of months if it takes, 2 get things exact or as close as poss.

No dead lines

Then paint :rolleyes: lol

Thanks guys i appreciate the feedback

P.s i work at Coventry's so alot of gear is from here cutting costs big time.

U gotta cut at least 1 corner hey.

a light polish is the way to go, ive seen more gains from mates who have done a mild polish than a major polish when aiming for lower hp.

i got most of my rebuild parts from coventry for my rebuild through my mate when he used to work there. it was probably the cheapest rebuild in history lol (just a std rebuld). i got pretty much everything but the rings from them.

goodluck with the build mate.

Thanks dude,

Head is gettin a light polish, we all need a polish every now n then :rolleyes:

Will be a great package.

Will keep ya's posted.

Goin 26 head now thanks Richard :D

POWER TIME :D

Edited by HR31DRFT

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
    • Some of them keep working fine. 9 out of 10 of them end up causing an absolute misery bleeding the system and get thrown on the workshop floor in a tantrum and never thought about again because they were never really needed and just added crap to the car that we could have done without. Same-same with HICAS, A-LSD, and various other stupidities that over eager 10x engineers thought we had to have.
×
×
  • Create New...