Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Did you have the car compression and leak down tested before you purchased it?

ALWAYS have your car comprehensively checked before buying it, by a workshop that knows Skylines back to front and will go over the car with a fine tooth comb to make sure you know exactly what you are getting yourself on to.

If the compression is only 75 on number 5 , leakdown would be like 75% on that cyl. What was the leakdown results on all cylinders? It could be any of several causes for the low comp or even a combo . If i was a betting man I would say broken ringlands on 5 but it could be a leaking H/gasket , valve..... A leakdown test will pinpoint it if its bottom end or in the cyl head .

As it is not a 10 year old car yet you are covered by consumer law for 3 months in NSW as long as the car has less than 100 k ks on the clock. Unless they can prove that you abused the car of played around with it , they will have to repair it as it is not normal wear and tear ...

One cylinder down to 75psi in a turbo car will not make a huge difference in power because when under boost that cyl is firing . Its like having a 1/12th power drop as that cyl only gives you half the power than it would normaly would . You should be able to pick it up when iddling because its not firing properly until it starts boosting .

If the compression is only 75 on number 5 , leakdown would be like 75% on that cyl. What was the leakdown results on all cylinders? It could be any of several causes for the low comp or even a combo . If i was a betting man I would say broken ringlands on 5 but it could be a leaking H/gasket , valve..... A leakdown test will pinpoint it if its bottom end or in the cyl head .

As it is not a 10 year old car yet you are covered by consumer law for 3 months in NSW as long as the car has less than 100 k ks on the clock. Unless they can prove that you abused the car of played around with it , they will have to repair it as it is not normal wear and tear ...

One cylinder down to 75psi in a turbo car will not make a huge difference in power because when under boost that cyl is firing . Its like having a 1/12th power drop as that cyl only gives you half the power than it would normaly would . You should be able to pick it up when iddling because its not firing properly until it starts boosting .

compression of 75 is about 50% of what it should be, not 75%.

not to be picky but looking at the dyno, 1 its in shoot_6 not shoot_6F and god damn good intercooler for Intake temps of 14 degrees, i think best is just get them both done again at a reputable place, isn't there 2 types of compression tests??? wet and dry??

compression of 75 is about 50% of what it should be, not 75%.

Here we go again .. Who said anything about compression being 75% dude ... I said LEAKDOWN on number 5 would be 75% . There is a difference just in case you didn't know ...Leakdown is measured in % of pressure lost and I said having 75 psi in number 5 would resalt in a leakdown of 75% .

Here we go again .. Who said anything about compression being 75% dude ... I said LEAKDOWN on number 5 would be 75% . There is a difference just in case you didn't know ...Leakdown is measured in % of pressure lost and I said having 75 psi in number 5 would resalt in a leakdown of 75% .

well sorry captain keyboard mechanic.

well sorry captain keyboard mechanic.

Yea , maybe better to stick to the wastleland !!!! I guess if you just sit back and read .... you may learn from others that have some idea at what they are posting.

Yea , maybe better to stick to the wastleland !!!! I guess if you just sit back and read .... you may learn from others that have some idea at what they are posting.

and that some people are so far up themselves they are inside out.

and that some people are so far up themselves they are inside out.

I wouldn't expect anything else from you dude .... This is the reason why you have no idea what you are talking about ...

I'll say it again leave the technical stuff to others .... stick to the WASTELAND, it suits you......

If you had a leak down test done pre purchase and it was good then you may want to read up on what it is you tested before jumping the gun based on a compression test result.

You will not make 200rwkw on 12psi if one cylinder is bleeding off pressure.

I suggest 3 possibilities, 1) it's a dud compression test, 2) Your initial leak down test was dodgy, 3) you've broken the car between your initial leak down test and the later compression test.

If you take the car back to E&M to be checked and it shows all good, you will be charged for it. If it shows up bad, then make sure you are familiar with your warranty conditions because you had it independently tested, and it was good when it left the lot. You've played with it in the mean time. I think you will lose if it goes before a judge.

Not trying to be harsh, but seriously, find out what you tested pre purchase before going any further.

They did a leak down test. I just read it again in the morning.

I'll go home and re-read the details but they "said" that they did.

And what do you mean by played with it? I didn't add any parts to the car or tune the engine.

Just got a power run on the dyno and a comp test performed.

And i aint jumping the gun. Just being cautious.

And doesn't matter if it does sound harsh...i don't want to be treated like a bitch. I want the truth.

Im with Dave. Now that you say you had a leakdown prior to purchase and all was good there's not really much you can do.

Have another comp test done; chances are the test was a bit bogus. How many times was each cylinder tested, should be seperately tested at least twice if there's any funky readings.

If it has lost compression all of a sudden it would indicate detonation and smashed ring lands in that cylinder.

It is making 200rwkw on the stock ecu with 12psi so really it is quite highly strung. That small SMIC would heat soak fairly quickly after a hard run, keep your boot in to it and it will rattle its head off. The knock sensors only protect the motor around peak torque, high rpm the ecu ignores it.

I have a Frontmount IC. And each cylinder was only tested once. Except for cylinder 5. They tried it 3 times.

also if it was that low in compression in 1 cylinder you would be using a touch of oil and it would blow a bit of smoke when you got into it a bit. get someone to follow you and then give it a good bootful through first and second. if there is no sign of smoke it make be a dodgy test. if it does blow white smoke then the test is correct.

I always have a whitish smoke in the rear. But this is when i start up in morns or even in afternoons for the first time. Will definitely get someone to follow me.

If it is blowing smoke, what does this mean? Dodgy pistons/cylinder rings?

Did you have the car compression and leak down tested before you purchased it?

ALWAYS have your car comprehensively checked before buying it, by a workshop that knows Skylines back to front and will go over the car with a fine tooth comb to make sure you know exactly what you are getting yourself on to.

Didn't know i could take it to other workshops...now i know :D

If the compression is only 75 on number 5 , leakdown would be like 75% on that cyl. What was the leakdown results on all cylinders? It could be any of several causes for the low comp or even a combo . If i was a betting man I would say broken ringlands on 5 but it could be a leaking H/gasket , valve..... A leakdown test will pinpoint it if its bottom end or in the cyl head .

As it is not a 10 year old car yet you are covered by consumer law for 3 months in NSW as long as the car has less than 100 k ks on the clock. Unless they can prove that you abused the car of played around with it , they will have to repair it as it is not normal wear and tear ...

One cylinder down to 75psi in a turbo car will not make a huge difference in power because when under boost that cyl is firing . Its like having a 1/12th power drop as that cyl only gives you half the power than it would normaly would . You should be able to pick it up when iddling because its not firing properly until it starts boosting .

Don't think i have the results of the leakdown test. I need to go home and check.

And the car has statutory 3mths warranty + extended 2 yrs.

not to be picky but looking at the dyno, 1 its in shoot_6 not shoot_6F and god damn good intercooler for Intake temps of 14 degrees, i think best is just get them both done again at a reputable place, isn't there 2 types of compression tests??? wet and dry??

What is the difference between shoot_6 and shoot_6F? And the intercooler is a front mount so that is why it has low temps??

And isn't Advan Performance and CRD a reputable workshop?

Edited by Fujiwara
I always have a whitish smoke in the rear. But this is when i start up in morns or even in afternoons for the first time. Will definitely get someone to follow me.

If it is blowing smoke, what does this mean? Dodgy pistons/cylinder rings?

That white smoke could just be condensation, hop out of the car and look at the 'smoke' when the car is idling, if it dissipates (think of steam coming out of an iron or pot) then its condensation, if it hangs around and floats up a couple of meters then you've got a problem

compression of 75 is about 50% of what it should be, not 75%.

If you're going to correct someone so strongly you better be right. Wrxhoon quite likely has more years experience with Skylines and cars in general than you have been alive and you're calling him a keyboard mechanic?

We're all here to help and be helped. Spouting incorrect crap does neither so best to either keep it to yourself or preface it with, "I think..." or better, "I'm probably wrong but...".

Ok...

E&M didn't reply to the 2 emails i have sent.

I received read receipts for these though...

Anyway, i took it to CRD.

All cylinders are fine.

Possible cause is carbon build up and the piston rings weren't sealing properly or something.

Cyl 1 185psi

Cyl 2 175psi

Cyl 3 180psi

Cyl 4 175psi

Cyl 5 175psi

Cyl 6 175psi

So now i can start doing some work.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Mate you saved be from dying in the Perth summer. AC wasn't changing direction and just going into diagnostics mode fixed it. You're a legend and I would shout you a beer if I could!
    • Unfortunately effort gone to waste, you will have substantial issues with how the manifold and wastegate have been integrated. You would be so much better off with a modified stock manifold like this: https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25detexgatedmanifold/   OR literally just getting a off the shelf Sinco or 6Boost manifold as myself and others have mentioned.  
    • Yuck. But it's kinda the same principle, moving timing around to make car run bad but sound good.... I went for a more spirited tuning drive to iron out a few things. Car no longer stalls, and it loved to dip RPM low when you clutch in. After tuning this (and the 4-5 tables that HPTuners/LS1 OEM ECU wants for idle air correction) it's now behaving somewhat normal. All expected because there's a new TB, new Intake manifold and that new TB which is 102mm vs 78... has an entirely different IAC passage which is smaller because ????? Unfortunately at this point I went to make further fine tuning changes to avoid it flaring up, you know... _tuning_ the HPTuners dongle died. Well to be more accurate - The USB cable died in a fashion that anyone who has ever charged a phone will recognize. After the app demanding I resync it 50 or so times (which all 'succeeded' but all failed) the device does not want to sync and I've logged a ticket with support to see if it's fixable. US Support said it was a 'storage issue' but after removing the SD card inside it and formatting it/fixing it the issue does persist. Unfortunately usually the fix is "Turn in your old dongle and pay $700 for the upgraded one" it's cheaper because I get some free licence credits I unfortunately don't need. However I'm 10 minutes down the road from HP Tuners AUS/VCM so at least I won't need to post it, and logged a new ticket for support over here. Definitely drives different. My SOTP dyno believes it's probably making 310-320kw instead of the 280 before.  It scrambles for traction a little now whereas it previously different. It drives like a bigger cam car up top even though the cam is smaller, likely due to the cam not being advanced 6 degrees. The timing is deliberately low and the fuel is very rich so who knows if this will improve on the dyno. It may, imperceptably. Also funny is removing the pineapples definitely makes the car squat more and axle tramp less. So this behavior of having more top end, squatting more, and scrabbling for traction more makes me think = more power. But I could have just been sitting on the threshold of that kind of behavior before. Time will tell if my butt dyno is calibrated right. I need the exhaust leaks fixed before dyno tune for obvious AFR related reasons - I repositioned the pipes but I'm not confident it's fully sealed even if it is better. At least the car does drive around while I cannot tweak/tune it for now. And I have aircon again. medium success!
    • Don't use that manifold. Please don't use that manifold. Sunk cost fallacy is not worth the later pain. None of these will be relevant to the change that will come from the different turbo and manifold. As in, the effect of the exhaust will be nil, regardless of what else is changed. And all the cam and fuel system stuff is not changing either way, so has no effect. The turbo and manifold (and to a small extent the wastegate)....big change.
×
×
  • Create New...