Jump to content
SAU Community

Whats Wrong With My Car ?

daleb4u

By daleb4u,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

daleb4u Enthusiast

daleb4u

Posted
Posted (edited)

hey guys

i have a huge problem and im looking for a soloution i have taken my car to a few mechanics who have done some tests and have all come up with diffrent soloutions.

I have an R33 Skyline GTST 1995 with an ARC intercooler 3inch exhaust, Apexi pod and blitz bov stock boost

About 9 months ago i had the car on the dyno and it had 175RWKW but the guy told me that it had exesive blow by and he thought its rings where shot. but said its not a big issue.

I started experiencing misfires on bost and surging also, I thought it was related to the coils or sparkies so i changed them and gapped the sparkies worked for a while then stopped and got worse, It now seems like it running on only 5 cylinders

so i took the car to the mechanic and he said it was rings and pistons as he did a comp test on the car and piston one came up at 50 psi however he didnt check the rest,

I then decided to take it to another mechanic as the car still feels pretty strong and engine sounds imaculate with the exception of a miss which i can hear mostly through exhaust (very lumpy) The second mechanic said it was just rings so i took it to a third and he said its just a blown head and . seems to think its the cause of excesive blow by.

When i took my coils and sparkies out to see if it was the issue i foud the sparkies where rusted which would probable point towards a blown head?? but no water in oil??

just wondering if anyone can shed some light onto this horror situation I dont mind spending money but i dont want throw money away. what do you guys think ???

any help will be appreciated

Edited by daleb4u
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175908-whats-wrong-with-my-car/
Share on other sites
Pal Veteran

Pal

Posted
Posted

u can have a cut in your head gasket from your cylinder to water jacket and miss your oil gallery's. remove your radiator cap and warm your engine up. if you are getting bubbles in the radiator or excessive water out your exhaust and having to fill radiator all the time it will be the head gone. i had one car that had so bad of a head gasket blown it actually got a hydraulic lock up in the engine and wouldn't turn over. also take the oil filler cap off when the engine running. if excessive air pressure coming out of here that can point to blow by. hope some of this info helps. by the info you have given , sounds like the engine has gone anyway

daleb4u Enthusiast

daleb4u

Posted
  • Author
Posted
u can have a cut in your head gasket from your cylinder to water jacket and miss your oil gallery's. remove your radiator cap and warm your engine up. if you are getting bubbles in the radiator or excessive water out your exhaust and having to fill radiator all the time it will be the head gone. i had one car that had so bad of a head gasket blown it actually got a hydraulic lock up in the engine and wouldn't turn over. also take the oil filler cap off when the engine running. if excessive air pressure coming out of here that can point to blow by. hope some of this info helps. by the info you have given , sounds like the engine has gone anyway

i have never had to fill up water but when i open it up while its warm i get bubbles as for the oil cap, I get no smoke or air engine feels very healthy and cleam

tridentt150v Grand Master

tridentt150v

Posted
Posted

Do a comp test on all cylinders when the engine is warm.

Also do a comp test on all cylinders when engine is cold [the colder the better], but before you do it, squirt some oil into the cylinder - preferably a heavy oil, gearbox even.

If you get a bad reading when its hot and really good reading when its cold then its rings. If it makes no difference and its low then its guides, valves lifters etc. It could be a bad lifter?

daleb4u Enthusiast

daleb4u

Posted
  • Author
Posted
if you had excessive blow by your plugs(especially the one in the cylinder that dropped) it would have been covered in oil.

rust=water

water=head gasket or head

no oil on spark plugs just tips and half of thread rusted as thats why im leaning towars gasket , also the was going great and i take realy good care of it , i service it every 2000 without fail (i know its too much but id rather be safe)

would a blown head or gasket drop comp readings ??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      The Cool Tools Thread

      By MBS206 路 Posted

      Don't use "gasless MIG" (FCAW) you want to use proper MIG. FCAW burns a few hundred degrees hotter than MIG will for mild steel. It is a true ball ache for sheet metal. New MIG / TIG machines even have features like "Spot Weld" as well as "Automatic" settings. Plenty of people say for DIY home hobby, the auto machines are pretty good for 95% of welding. I personally, I'm a sucker for punishment and wanting to dial it in, and be able to adjust the machine. Mainly because I used to MIG weld for a living, and being able to tweak and tune things ever so slightly was my preference. Hence when I bought my ACDC TIG, it has all the adjustments for everything and no "easy" mode. Ha ha I have stick, MIG, "gaslessMIG" and ACDC TIG at home. Out of them, if you're doing mild steel sheet metal repair, and want to do mild steel exhausts, go MIG. If you're thinking you'll want to get into doing some aluminium stuff, or stainless steel, get an ACDC TIG with HF start. If you can, get one with a foot pedal too. My MIG machine is a UniMIG, and my Stick/TIG is CigWeld. If I were buying another machine, I'd buy another CIGWeld. Lots of people having issues with UniMIG, and them not wanting to cover warranty. Everything has to go back to UNIMig themselves. CIGWeld, I've had to use their warranty on my machine for a gas leak, they have repair centres everywhere, (contracted authorised repair centres). First repair place I used were hopeless, but the second place were amazing. Warranty process itself super easy, and second repair place was telling me CigWeld actually cover in their warranty, upto an hour of techs time to help you with your machine, and going through the settings and helping teach you the machine. UniMIG keep trying to get out of replacing motherboards on 12 month old machines.   TLDR, mild steel sheet welding, buy a MIG. my vote is CigWeld for brand.
    • MBS206
      RB25DET Solid lifter conversion

      By MBS206 路 Posted

      I guess that's what happens when someone can't convert metric to freedom units to machine something. 馃槢
    • MrStabby
      The Cool Tools Thread

      By MrStabby 路 Posted

      I've watched some vids and the technique seems to be to butt the sheets up to one another and use MIG to spot weld and slowly fill in the spots until its eventually all sealed. No runs as you would normally do, as there's too much heat generated that way. Yeah my stick welds are terrible these days because its been so long since i've done any of it. I expect to be spending many hours practicing
    • joshuaho96
      RB25DET Solid lifter conversion

      By joshuaho96 路 Posted

      I have personally seen a Tomei USA RB26 cam that didn't even fit the head. Kind of nuts to me that it was even possible for that to happen but such is life.  There's two UP Garages in the US. One is a US branch of the Japanese company which sells things they brought over at tremendous markup. The other is University Place Garage/Fairlady Motors which is a shop best known for putting VCAM in RBs and trying to convince people to stop putting in 800hp of turbo on a 2.5L motor.
    • GTSBoy
      The Cool Tools Thread

      By GTSBoy 路 Posted

      Gasless MIG is not exactly suited to what I would call "delicate" or "attractive" welding. So I would rule it out for sheet metal rust repair type stuff, unless you're only doing it in hidden places. I'm thinking about getting myself a gasless MIG for "hack together" type work. Noting that my welding experience is very very low, and quite a long time ago. So I'm also looking for "simple", but I'm not expecting "excellent". I'm not even sure that proper MIG is the best for sheet metal work. I get the feeling that the degree of control and the minimisation of heat input that you get from TIG is probably what you really want. And then you have to get good at doing it before the welds won't look like a monkey flinging a handful of shit anyway. You're probably SOL for an easy and cheap way to get from where you are to where you want to be. Much like myself.
脳
脳
  • Create New...