Jump to content
SAU Community

My 34gtt Run 280km With A Full Tank,is That Normal?


Recommended Posts

i have a 1998 semiauto r34 gtt. with intercooler, airfilter, BOV .and i drive it normally.but it just can keep going for about 280 km with a full tank.

i use #98 petrol, and fill in about 48 liters to make it full when the indicator tells me there was few petrol. is the fuel tank of gtt 50L ? i just want know a normal situation of the gtt's fuel consumption thanks a lot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i have a 1998 semiauto r34 gtt. with intercooler, airfilter, BOV .and i drive it normally.but it just can keep going for about 280 km with a full tank.

i use #98 petrol, and fill in about 48 liters to make it full when the indicator tells me there was few petrol. is the fuel tank of gtt 50L ? i just want know a normal situation of the gtt's fuel consumption thanks a lot.

Hey Dude I have a R34 GTT tiptronic auto Hybrid fmic, full exhaust from turb back,Greedy ebc, Safc2,BOV, POD, and my car gets 300 km to a full 50 lt tank it sucks what is wrong ????????????????? :thumbsup:

Edited by YPLAY4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

i have a 1998 semiauto r34 gtt. with intercooler, airfilter, BOV .and i drive it normally.but it just can keep going for about 280 km with a full tank.

i use #98 petrol, and fill in about 48 liters to make it full when the indicator tells me there was few petrol. is the fuel tank of gtt 50L ? i just want know a normal situation of the gtt's fuel consumption thanks a lot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

its all in how u drive the car keep it off boost and u will do fine. i have a r32 gtst with fmic dump pipie full exhaust stock cat uped boost pod filter. and i get 450 to 500 normaly but when i give it some i get bout 300 to 350 and thats not even on empty.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

GTT tank is 65L. If you used 48L to top up then you have approximately another 17L left. 280kms to 48L is still pretty rich. I just filled up my tank today with 47L after having done 360kms.

The usual culprits are O2 sensor, spark plugs, AFM...perhaps take it for a tune and service.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

NISMO is right, the tank is about 65L. I'll normally get about 400kms region to a full tank. I don't run it till the lights come out though. Got a 3" turbo back, fmic, pod, ssqv, boost at 12psi, foot is a little heavy at times :nyaanyaa:. Really depends on how you drive.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

changing the o2 sensor will help, changed mine and i went from 300km a tank to about 430km tank.

This sounds more like it. I have a s2 stagea (r34 engine, gearbox), which is quite a bit heavier than a skyine and on 48L my car will get over 400km around town. Its got 160awkw too so its not stock either.

My guess is that you should at least be getting more than 350km on this amount of fuel, modified or not. If its doing less than that, you need to either adjust your driving style or look for whats causing the problem - eg. check your O2 sensor. :D

A good free-flowing exhaust, SAFC or similar, and improved ignition timing will help your fuel economy as well, not to mention a bigger turbo (off boost while cruising). :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

my 2c worth

the following could be causing it too

Dirty air filter - causing the motor to work harder than it needs to , cause its not getting the airflow it needs

Slightly too thick oil - are you using the correct grade of oil in it ? I mistakingly used some stuff that was too thick in another car I had - and I did notice a drop in economy

change the o2 sensor as previously advised

have you ever had the car on a dyno? the dyno readout of AFR can definately tell you a LOT about what your motor is doing. I think if you were chasing the most kays per tank .. an after market ecu or a few add in mods like a SAFC and a SITC ( I think thats the one that controls engine timing )

if you got the above fitted . and spent some time and money on a dyno tune.. you would probably get more power and use less fuel. dont forget if a motor is running really really rich .. then its safe.. but .. its just pissing fuel out the tail pipe , leaning the mix to a leaner (yet still safe ) will yeild more power and less fuel consumption - but dont fall into the trap though of getting a bit more power and driving like a maniac - cause of course your goign to use more fuel

good luck matey!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if you can afford it run with a good fuel like BP ultimate 98 - just less chance of it pinging/detonating if you push it hard.

Oh and .. have a look around .. because you can find " equivalent " o2 sensors that are usually less expensive. To be honest I am not 100% certain if the equivalent o2 sensor will be " just as good" as a geniune one. But its worth a go.

Make sure you get some good crimp connectors to join it up , as my previous experience with this proved that the wires they use on o2 sensors are impossible to solder ( I think they are stainless? )

thanks everyone .now i think i catch the key point.

another question : which grade of petrol should the gtt fill? #98?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks everyone .now i think i catch the key point.

another question : which grade of petrol should the gtt fill? #98?

As this had been covered many many times, anything just 98 Octane will be just fine. Be it BP Ultimate, Caltex Vortex 98, Shell V-Power, V-power Racing, Mobil Synergy, they are all fine. Just a personal preference on which 'BRAND' one prefer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am impressed with all this level of adjustment. I didn't expect all this possibility
    • Correct.  In the case of the 500kw dyno plot I showed you the car actually runs two boost control solenoids for boost control and a 5psi wastegate spring.  It allows me to control how much boost pressure is applied to both sides of the wastegate valve at any point and fairly accurately control boost target as a result. I've tuned it so that it's able to target anywhere from 5psi to 25psi depending on what's needed.  The target tables I've set up in that car are Gear vs RPM, so every gear has potential for a different boost (and torque) curve.   First and second gear have quite low boost targets, third gear actually has different target boost all the way through the rpm range as it's a stock RB25 gearbox - the boost targets have been chosen to maintain a peak of 600nm (what the owner has set as the maximum torque he's happy with putting through the stock 3rd gear) but it carries that to the rev limiter.   The boost curve to achieve that is something of a ramp up, then hold, then ramp up again and the power curve looks more like a flat line haha.  
    • so you can decrease or increase the boost depending on the diet as you wish?     by acting on the wastegate?
    • That's torque and power, it's all from a single run.  The boost curve is "held back" from it's peak target in the 3500rpm to 5000rpm range from memory, so it ramps hard to something like 18psi then climbs more progressively to 23psi nearer 5000rpm.   It makes the torque (and power) ramp more "natural" and less hard on parts and traction, it doesn't feel artificially held back.   
    • Here's the torque curves from the car I ramped boost up later in the rpm to allow a slightly wider useful power curve - the power curve is a bit weird shaped also thanks to the TVIS (or whatever they call it with the 4EFTE in this Starlet) which changes the volume of the intake manifold throughout the rpm range, but you can see that the green power curve actually holds later on with the extra boost... but looks almost more like the kind of thing you'd expect from a cam or exhaust change
×
×
  • Create New...