Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

same thing has happened to me! i took it to an instrument maker to get fixed. there is a little motor behind the dash that makes the numbers increment. they had to order the little motor (from who knows where) i don't know the cost (yet) but i'll keep you posted. remeber not all auto electricians fix dash instruments.

Tim, my speedo stopped working last year. I removed the instrument cluster and took it down to a place in Brookvale. Northern Beaches Instruments ??? or Brookvale Instruments ???? something like that (not Northern Beaches Automotive, but may be the same street). They are near Bill Buckle in one of those side streets.

They fixed it no worries, it had a dry solder.

Took my R33 down for a nice drive down to Wollongong on the weekend and it did the same thing as you describe.

Stopped counting in between 71899 and 71900. I suspect this is a side effect of being wound back, which doesn't make me happy.

It started counting again after a little while and is working ok now. Might get it looked at still.

Originally posted by red900ss

Tim, my speedo stopped working last year. I removed the instrument cluster and took it down to a place in Brookvale. Northern Beaches Instruments ??? or Brookvale Instruments ???? something like that (not Northern Beaches Automotive, but may be the same street). They are near Bill Buckle in one of those side streets.

They fixed it no worries, it had a dry solder.

How much did they charge you for that if i may ask?

mine stopped at 50k also. turned out one of the little increment tabs was slightly burred over. my guess is a wound back speedo (yet another one, bastards). it was easy fixed though, just trimmed the burr with a scalpel blade AND replaced the motor (which was stuffed i think because the mechanism was jammed???).

dave

yeah im another person with the same problem some little *insert grrrr here* actually wound back my speedo in australia and not japan - luckily i know around what kms its orignally done thanks to an old service sticker.

But not my odo hasnt been ticking over for a while - hmmm about 5 months ..... one of these days i'll get it to an instrument specialist haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
    • You can probably scrub the rust with a toothbrush or something. After you get the rust off flush well with water to neutralize and you will probably want to also use a fuel tank sealer to keep it from rusting again.
    • The sodium citrate solution is designed to buffer the citric acid to keep it from attacking metal quite so much, the guy that came up with that recipe did a ton of testing on how much metal loss occurs over time and it's nothing crazy unless you forget about it for months:   
×
×
  • Create New...