Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well finally after a good deal of issues I was able to get my 35r rb25 back on the dyno this afternoon. Sorted out a glitching RPM issue.. "or so I thought" by cleaning out my CAS. Sure enough my car fired right up after this. This issue was a glitch that was being sent to the ECU by the CAS giving crazy RPM readings. For instance while cranking at 300 rpms, it might spike to 16000 rpm or 10000 rpm signal. Causing the piston to missfire at say bottom dead center making it impossible to start. Well I thought it was gone...

264809931.jpg

anyway. Back to tuning. Car had been running for about 2 hours now, no issues. Tuner was making pulls in 500 rpms increments. Left the timing alone and was doing a/f tuning all at 11.2 +- .1. All was fine. Boost was set to 14psi. Made a 6500 pass no problem and put down 300rwhp.. keep in mind no timing settings were changed yet. So a 7500 pass was up next. Pull sounded fine, loud as **** so our ears are all covered so we might have not heard something... tuner is watching a/f's so he wouldn't have noticed the graph... Car hit redline, idled for a few seconds then shut off and died... Throwing an RPM code.. which was stating the RPMS are fu*ked. So tries cranking cranking, RPMS are spiking like they had been before when the car wouldn't start... Now the graph.. Looks like a mountain not a curve, all is good until around 5000rpms...... after that it seems to be devesation...

264809945.jpg

264809939.jpg

Heres what my plugs now looked like. They got so hot that the conductor and porcilin was melted off pretty much all the way. My thoughts are that the CAS started glitching out around 5000 rpm throwing say an RPM signal of 16000 rpm in worst case senerio... most likely caushing some form of predetenation... My tuner thought it was valve float initatialy when he looked at the graph, he had a simillar issue with an SR. But after inspection of all the lifters and plugs we realized that wasn't possible..

compress test goes in 1-6 order, 120 110 110 120 100 60 ... We leak down tested her doesn't seem to be the rings since theres no crank case pressure leaking though... We are concluding that the tip of the plug's are no melted at the bottom side of my valves preventing them from closing all the way... or it might have damaged them.

Anyone ever heard of a CAS doing this type of glitching? and any thoughts on the **** *** compression.. Motor will be removed in a few days for inspection of damage.. not cool for sure. Motor was looking to make about 400rwhp that pass at 14 psi w/o touching base timing.. she will be down for months now.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176003-r-boom-opionons-pics-inside/
Share on other sites

Strange you did not get any backfiring if the plug fragments are holding the valves open a bit?

Amazing damage even though they are crap plugs and is that an NGK in there?

What heat range were they when they were in one piece?

And do you have splitfire coilpacks that would have kept the spark going with that much gap!

Serious detonation happening at the torque peak I would say.

Hope its not to hard or expensive to repair!

Strange you did not get any backfiring if the plug fragments are holding the valves open a bit?

Amazing damage even though they are crap plugs and is that an NGK in there?

What heat range were they when they were in one piece?

And do you have splitfire coilpacks that would have kept the spark going with that much gap!

Serious detonation happening at the torque peak I would say.

Hope its not to hard or expensive to repair!

Yeah there wasnt any backfiring, it still sounded smooth like usual. Although nice plume of black smoke came out during that time... obviously unburnt fuel from the plugs being done... And at the end of the pull a nice blue cloud as well. No load bangs no explosions, no steam or smoke from the bay, anything like that..

NGK wasn't my plug, we had one plug that survived and place it back in the motor to see if she would even start with 5 fresh new plugs. Plugs are coppers gapped at .8mm, coils are bosch microtech ones. Being fed by an x6 box and lt12s computer.

mate i have seen spark plugs that will either earth to the side of the thread or to the top of the piston when it reaches TDC doesnt do the top of the piston any good at all.

Hope the damage is not to bad!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And also there were for sale scams and the like. For sale posts need piccies, and not having piccies makes it harder to do a driveby scam.
    • And I forgot to add my *** footnote to the above post, which was that the pipework mods would be even more significant than what had to be done for the highflow. So just add that onto the list. Pipework mods are no killer, just made the tasklist longer at a time when extra tasks were not welcome.
    • I mean he could post them to imgur or the like and create a link. But yeah, spam bots absolutely will post pictures in their first posts.
    • Ah ok, reason I asked was for the sake of not having to upgrade everything if the turbo couldn't be capped.
    • pffft! My alignments are starting to take 3-4 weeks each. Bugger overnight - that would be a dream! Overnight is when I leave it on stands with the rear suspension in pieces, hoping I can remember where I was at when I come back to it. I have to set the car up on a level surface so I can get decent camber measurements, then try to set the RUCAs to the right length to get that right. Then I have to put the car somewhere else where I have enough room to set up the bumpsteer gauge (laser, paper, mirror), so I can dial out that. Then I need to go measure camber again because changing the tension arm length affects that also. Then I need to measure toe, and I can't do that to my own satisfaction at home, so I have to put it on an actual aligner. Then I have to go back and fix the camber again, and if that took more than a half a turn, decide if I want to set up the bumpsteer measurements again. I previously had the bumpsteer almost completely banished and then I started changing things again! And that's only the rear end. Not even gotten to talking about the front yet. And this has been going on in the context of me discovering a seized bolt in the LHR FUCA bush at the upright, hence needing total disassembly to replace that bush and the others that were not far away from the same outcome, replacing sphericals in the front end and making a mistake that resulted in needing to do it again, which is only half done right now. It's a selfmade nightmare. Only have self to blame, etc etc. But regardless, I am so complelely unable to utilise the services of a normal wheel aligner that I have no choice. I haven't found a shop in my city that does "race" alignments - and by that I don't mean I want my car to be set up for racing, but the set of adjustments that I have available and that need to be used to do the alignment are the same as you'd find on a race car. I haven't looked everywhere, but there doesn't appear to be the equivalent of the motorsport focused shops that are present in Sydney and Melbourne. And such an alignment would cost $300, and you only want to do it once in a while, and you don't want to find out that you have to replace bushes and bearings and such while you are spending that $300 so you have to come back and spend it again a week later. So I stay living in my self made nightmare for the moment.  
×
×
  • Create New...