Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi I have recently purchased an R34 25GTT, and was wondering what petrol to use.

I have gathered that 95 Octane is suitable, yet i pumped V-Power from Shell, which was a little bit more expensive. Just wanted to find out what others out there with similar imported cars prefer to use, and if 95 is good enough (i.e. that it wont damage the car like normal unleaded would)

CHeers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176015-r34-petrol-choices/
Share on other sites

32 , 33 or 34 i would highly highly highly recommend premium.

BP ultimate, shell V power, or mobil's premium one (cant think of the name), are the only 3 i consider. i personally wouldnt use 95, i stick with BP which is 98. use it 100% of the time and works for me.

this has been covered a bit before so try a search and im sure you will read more posts about it.

dude, there's no ' R34 petrol choices ' LOL. Basically most of the skylines, silvias, supras are similiar. Just stick to 98 Octane and you'll be fine. Doesn't really matter Shell V-Power, BP Ultimate, Mobil Synergy 8000, Caltex Vortex 98, these 4 are the most popular choices. Different people may argue Shell is better than Caltex blah blah blah, but they are basically the same. :D

Like other people have said, stick with 98 octane (or better). Also you will get best results if you stay with the same brand of fuel too.

I'd stay away from anything less than 98 octane unless you have to use it (ie. in the country). Your fuel economy will likely be better with 98 octane anyway so the overall cost will probably not be that different. Its also better for your engine so it will save you money in the long run :D

Just like everyone said, 98oct would be ideal but if you are a real tightass, 92/95oct would be fine if you dont thrash your car. Thrashing your R34 on 92/95, your motor will ping its head off and eventually couple of cylinders (if you are lucky enough :( ) will come flying out from your block.

I know a few guys that were using 92/95oct in their rexies, skylines and 200s due to the high fuel prices couple of months ago, most of these boys were driving in excess of 100km per day so saving every cent mattered.

Just like everyone said, 98oct would be ideal but if you are a real tightass, 92/95oct would be fine if you dont thrash your car. Thrashing your R34 on 92/95, your motor will ping its head off and eventually couple of cylinders (if you are lucky enough :D ) will come flying out from your block.

I know a few guys that were using 92/95oct in their rexies, skylines and 200s due to the high fuel prices couple of months ago, most of these boys were driving in excess of 100km per day so saving every cent mattered.

I've heard this argument many times, but given that using 91octane fuel (which most regular unleaded is) is risking blowing your engine, ask yourself if it really is cheaper for the sake of $5 a week in savings...

In my opinion spending a little extra on fuel (its not that much really) is very cheap insurance and protection for your engine :(

I've heard this argument many times, but given that using 91octane fuel (which most regular unleaded is) is risking blowing your engine, ask yourself if it really is cheaper for the sake of $5 a week in savings...

In my opinion spending a little extra on fuel (its not that much really) is very cheap insurance and protection for your engine :)

yeh agreed.. when it comes down to it, the savings are quite minimal, and you relly got to look at the longer term.. i mean u could sacrifice a cup of coffee, or pack of smokes rather than risking ur baby :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok glad you clarified on the frenchy’s options , I was worried about if my oem hoses would fit the new compressor or not if I just bought the bracket/compressor kit ,  didn’t realize they also sold a larger full conversion kit. Hmm may just go oem in that case then to make it easy only because I plan to sell this car to upgrade to a 32 GTR or 34 GTT.
    • Right, here's a video of the basic operation at least.  This is what you can expect day to day when you turn the car on and it boots from standby.  The only thing from a media point of view I haven't gotten working is for it to autoplay plexamp when it turns on from standby (it works from cold boot) but that's more of a plexamp problem as it will autoplay other music players.  Also attached is my one stray cable.  It's part of the screen's wiring adapters but there's just nowhere for it to go in my car.  I've just now done a bit of research and found a matching port on a 2010-2014 head unit with BOSE.  Mine has no BOSE so that's that case pretty much closed I think.  Plugging in the Infiniti AC panel basically did nothing for me, so that's a dead end as well.  Next port of call is to mess with this CANBUS module and see what I can find from it.  I found this resource containing the DBC files for a 2010+ G37 : https://github.com/icecube45/Dash_InfinitiG37/blob/master/InfinitiG37.dbc I'll now have something to go from when I try to extract my CANBUS data so I can see if the HVAC Mode, Fan Speed, Temperature, etc. match and also the gear shifter position.  It's a pretty big assumption that it's just mismatched CAN signals but considering all the devices in the CAN network are talking to each other (AC can be fully adjusted just with no info on screen) it might be a safe one.  I will report back WhatsApp Video 2025-02-26 at 12.49.10.mp4
    • Thanks for that Paul.  Do you think if I posted a picture you'd be able to remember where it went? 
    • Sorry Duncan, I didn't get a notification for the replies.  Thanks for responding!  It's a full Android device, but does allow you to use CarPlay/AA as well.  This is the one I bought from NaviRS on AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006368602668.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.111.59aa1802JDzQ0E - the 2K 8G-256G CAM variant but it seems to have gone up by £170 since I bought it!  My purchase was £307.14.   It's not the fastest thing in the world but performs perfectly adequately.  It stays on standby unless I disconnect the battery and let it power down, then it's just a fairly standard Android bootup time from cold.  The DSP Equaliser is very nice and made the standard stereo system sound pretty decent compared to the stock screen.  Perhaps I can take a video of it when I get a sec. It *allegedly* supports the reverse camera, but I'm yet to get that working.  It has options for reverse cam (a camera unit can be bought separately) or 360 cameras (also bought separately).  To be fair it doesn't seem to detect that the shifter was put into reverse but I'm working on a theory about this as well.  At the moment I'm going without which is a bit annoying considering the car is an absolute canal barge but so far I haven't caused any damage I'll grab a picture of the wire I'm missing later today when I can get outside.  My theory, by the by, is that not only is the head unit different, but the CANBUS network has different signals for the different years.  I think this because I have a spare AC panel from a newer Infiniti G37 (as opposed to my Nissan panel) which wouldn't control anything except the volume when I had it wired up with the stock system.  I'm going to throw it back in and see if the screen will respond to it.  I've just ordered an arduino CANBUS module so I can have a look at the signals going around the car and see if I can spot anything.  I'm thinking if I can work out what it's expecting vs what it's getting I might be able to translate and relay the signal back but so far just a theory anyway. I also found this on my travels, so far the only one that specifically matches my car: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002822934280.html?spm=a2g0s.imconversation.0.0.33433e5fgttovi If you look at the picture of the before, it has the card reader slot, and the picture of the head unit is exactly the same as the one pictured in my original post.  I asked if they sell the cables separately but sadly they won't.  I didn't want to just buy this one because it's a super old Android version and only dual core - likely slow as hell. 
    • As above, you did refill the coolant and burp the system before running it again didn't you?
×
×
  • Create New...