Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys. My GTR has done 130'000 kms and now that i have a small cold idle problem i thought its time to clean the injectors anyway so i can be confident they are ok before i start changing anything else.

I read peoples posts here about aftermarket injectors but i think the Standard ones will satisfy my future needs. As long as they will be as good as new once serviced.

Ive got some questions...

Would a 89 GTR have top feed or side feed injectors ?

Is $180 ok price to clean/test injectors? (i will be supplying them the fuel rail with inj)

Which way is easier to get the fuel rail out. Remove the plenum or leave it on ?

Do i need to buy some o-rings or something when putting injectors back in ?

I read here inlet manifold gasket is $85. this is ridiculous if its true. Might just use loctite 515

A GTR would have top feed injectors.

To clean and test flow your injectors, it's about $40 per injector. Six injectors make it about $240. I would say that $180 is a good price to get them cleaned and tested.

And it's a good idea to get new o-rings when you put your injectors back in. Some have got cheap o-rings from supercheap auto and they've leaked. They recommended genuine Nissan items.

I'm not too sure about your others questions mate.

leave the plenum on

just remove the two bolts that hold the fuel rail in

you also have to remove the breather hose that gets in the way and all associated vacuum and fuel hoses (obviously)

Removal and install is too easy.

Common practice is to get them flowed, then place the highest flowing ones in at the rear to combat the unequal plenum flow. Agree with ^^ above, OEM rings and insulators as AM ones have leaked on me before. Little pit of petroleum based lube on install to keep them supple.

Cheapest inst always best. I have heard / seen some dodgey operations, with home made inj pulsing units and apprentice mishandling. Also please keep in mind they 18yrs old and new direct fitments SARDs are like $110 each

Ta

$580 delivered from nengun for Sards thats extremely cheap.

Sard also have a lot of their range in twin sprays now. Of which I've seen a set of 800cc twinspray sards work extremely well at idle/low rpm; excellent atomization and great fuel economy. I was a little skeptical from the old sard single spray squirters. :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just buy a BMW if you want that... You can then choose whatever engine of theirs you want 馃槢
    • Clear vinyl wrap or clear coat? 
    • There really needs to be an ODBII item that can play intake noise through speakers, synchronized with your current RPM and TPS%.
    • Worth most of the $50k alone!
    • So, we now have a straight and clean boot lid inbound and the car goes in for paint, again, on Wednesday, and will be ready on Friday, all ready to get cams and stuff on Monday  And by straight and clean.....I mean a brand new OEM one that cost..... $1300....馃槳 Sadly there's no clean undamaged used soft top version available, plenty for the power retractable hard top versions though, which is arse and makes Mark have the sads I could have waited longer, until a NC sort top boot lid eventually turned up, but I'm sick of waiting and said fark it and made it rain cash, meh In other naturally aspirated news, one of the guys at work brought in his old Corola which had a 4AGE in it, really nice clean car with lots of mods, including ITB's, man that things induction noise sounds sick with all of the dorts that makes you smile......maybe the NC needs ITB's, yeah, basically for the noise they make, but they're pretty expensive, but, they sound so damn good I may bring this up when I drop the car up on Monday, and by may, I mean I will馃ぃ馃馃お馃ぃ
  • Create New...