Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

need some advise from those in the know.

I'm looking to sell my stag and the bloke who's interested wants to have it RAC inspected.

my car hasn't given me any problems at all since i've owned i dont doubt that it'll pass any mechanical check...my worry is that it has an aftermarket boost controller and safc fitted...will these show as a defect in the check?? Does the RAC check for mechanical soundness or does it also run a compliance sort of check in the vehicle? ..would hate to have to return everything back to stock only to have the buyer pull out.

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176039-rac-check/
Share on other sites

The rac check will note the mods on the car as "observations" it will state along the lines of " observation: boost controller fitted to vehicle"

Just had one done on a 180 with aftermarket kat back and thats what the report had on it

cheers mate.

did they do a compression test as well?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176039-rac-check/#findComment-3222673
Share on other sites

You might want to mention to the bloke that the RAC won't know their arse from their elbow when it comes to imports. If the guy is serious, tell him to talk to one of the guys at autoworx or any of the other workshops in WA (I'm sure Brad will be able to tell you which one to use :nyaanyaa: ). At least then they know what they are talking about.

I contacted RAC about insurance when I bought mine, they had no idea what it was and told me they wanted the car fror 3 days for assesment before they could give me an answer.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176039-rac-check/#findComment-3222679
Share on other sites

The rac check will note the mods on the car as "observations" it will state along the lines of " observation: boost controller fitted to vehicle"

Just had one done on a 180 with aftermarket kat back and thats what the report had on it

No compression check. They do drive it for a bit and check for smoke

Sure they don’t really know as much about imports as the workshops do and I had the same opinion that it’s not worth doing the test until I had one done on my 180. They give you a very good indication of the condition of the car and they do go over it with great detail. The report itself is a very detailed 2 page summary and tells you the overall condition and the condition of separate components, i.e., Engine, electronics, drive train, cosmetic... etc

Not good if your car is stuffed though ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176039-rac-check/#findComment-3223176
Share on other sites

No compression check. They do drive it for a bit and check for smoke

Sure they don't really know as much about imports as the workshops do and I had the same opinion that it's not worth doing the test until I had one done on my 180. They give you a very good indication of the condition of the car and they do go over it with great detail. The report itself is a very detailed 2 page summary and tells you the overall condition and the condition of separate components, i.e., Engine, electronics, drive train, cosmetic... etc

Not good if your car is stuffed though ;)

What do RAC checks go for nowadays? I paid 180ish for my Stagea and that was a comprehensive 5 page report with compression test, paint test etc etc. Jeez that guy was picky too! It was worth it as I made sure the dealer who sold me the car fixed up ALL the minor problems before the sale.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176039-rac-check/#findComment-3223463
Share on other sites

thats strange..i mean how could they possible tell the condition of the electrics just by testing...i mean you can say if they were working...but surely without some diagnostic plug in..u couldnt tell if an electrical component was on its way out.

i really dont mind them doing a rac inspection..in fact given the reverse...i would do the same...but i certainly dont want them holding my car for 3 days to do an inspection....what a pain.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176039-rac-check/#findComment-3223685
Share on other sites

we had the skyline RAC checked for the guy that was interested in buying it....it didnt take 3 days..they arrived at 9am in the morning and left just after 12.00...he spent ages in our driveway going over it and took it for maybe a 10 minute drive most...the things that came up in the report were things that we already knew of, but actually gave the guy piece of mine that there was nothing wrong with the car except a few cosmetic marks....if you have nothing to hide then get them to arrange the RAC inspection at your house and you shouldnt have an issue, or alternatively if your so worried about the RAC get an import dealer/mechanic to go over and they will search every little thing and note every detail they find...its all worth the money :dry: especially if your car passes and it means you have a sale on your hands and if not you keep the report and you can show potential buyers the same report

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176039-rac-check/#findComment-3223813
Share on other sites

the 3 days was to asess it for insurance because they had nothing like it on their records, not to provide a pre-purchase inspection.

I still reckon you would be better off getting the inspection done by an import workshop. They are a lot more likely to know where to look for problems (like rust under the wing mirrors) and they will give a prospective buyer a fair bit more confidence.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176039-rac-check/#findComment-3223899
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wish I had this advice when I did my pump. It went in and out 3 or 4 times, and on the last time it snapped.
    • Tried them, they leaked. I also foolishly bought some random rubber ones that leaked too.  Genuine and not looked back.    As always though sample size of one, and I could have made a mistake installing them. 
    • Technically still manual process to set it first time though
    • Shit job but not hard. I'd use a piece of wood to knock the plastic lid open to avoid damaging it, use a vacuum to clean up the fuel sender lid also so crap doesn't fall in. I'd probably do pump and filter at the same time since you're already in there, I reused my OEM sock after a quick clean since the one provided wasn't long enough. Could also hardwire your pump if you feel inclined.
    • Supercheap auto sell this: https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/pat-plusquip-fuel-tank-lock-ring-tool---universal-kit/SPO3564082.html I own this and if you HAVE PATIENCE you can remove it without snapping lines and generally being incredibly angry, then said at doing this job. Sadly I've removed the pump about 75,000 times over the years. I don't know if you're a large lad or a smaller lad but my advice to you as someone who is 185cm is if you are my height or smaller, is to sit in the boot and take your time. Yes you can put the seal on. The seal goes over the white thing/lid (you will see how it 'slots' in) then the whole assembly presses into the tank. then you screw the lock ring on. I spent so much time doing things the wrong way by trying to mount the seal into the tank first, then putting the white fuel hat on in the space provided. Put it together first then it'll all go in. But seriously be careful about removing the hoses AND where the removal tool is moving relative to the plastic pipes coming out of the lid when you've removed it. IT IS BRITTLE So brittle in fact I have two spare lids, and would recommend buying a spare and having it handy before attempting to do this. May as well throw https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD in the tank as well, as this uses all stock plugs and such. You may need to/strongly recommend you re-use your OEM fuel sock or use the one supplied with a length of hose so it sits at the stock height.
×
×
  • Create New...