4wd Relay Clicking At Idle

[Maindog]

Guys have cleaned up the earths in the chassis, made some improvement but I wouldn't consider it resolved. Cant test with the old unit as I don't have it anymore. System has been flushed and bled again so I think we can rule out air in the lines.

Interestingly, I've noted previously that the relay doesnt click when the car is cold, and starts after about 5 minutes of driving. I assumed that it'd take at least an hour or so to cool back down to the point where the clicking stops, but looks like its a much shorter period of time. Just filled up with fuel (5 minutes maybe) which was long enough to 'reset' the clicking issue.

[DaveB]

Interesting. I have another accumulator which didn't click tooo much if you'd like to try that. If it improves things, then it's probably the accumulator. Otherwise, I have another whole pump assembly just sitting in the shed...

[Maindog]

PM sent mate.

[beastien]

I replaced my accumulator around seven years ago now, with a brand new one, have noticed for a while now, clicking every 20-30sec.

Surely it wouldn’t have gone bad in that time. The clicking is so fast, it doesn’t even spin the pump. I’m thinking something else is causing it. 

Have opened the atessa Ecu, checked caps etc, and found nothing. 

 

[DaveB]

No that sounds about right. 7 years is how long it took my brand new unit to wear out. Although one other thing which can cause the symptoms is a low 12V circuit (bad battery/alternator/connections). But the accumulator is a high pressure gas canister with a moving seal, and they seem to become a bit leaky over time.

[ian]

any chance that someone can post a 'how to do it' with pictures for this - particularly given all our stageas are getting older (as are we!…) and this is going to happen more and more..

It's happening to mine now, so I'd love

1) a guide to changing it

2) any suggesting where to get the current one re gassed

3) or where to get a new one from….

[Karlito]

On 13/05/2019 at 5:17 AM, ian said:

any chance that someone can post a 'how to do it' with pictures for this - particularly given all our stageas are getting older (as are we!…) and this is going to happen more and more..

It's happening to mine now, so I'd love

1) a guide to changing it

2) any suggesting where to get the current one re gassed

3) or where to get a new one from….

Hi Ian,

 

 Just got to do this, this week. It worked for me on my BNR32, but HOLY CHRIST, this is a job. lmk if you need tips, cuz I spend a bit too much on trial-tool to get this off. Just for the record.... you need to lower the subframe ( in my case ) since I did this in my garage with the help of a bud.

 

  Thanks or all the input on this thread....got to fix it with firm belief that it was the accumulator ! 

[DaveB]

FYI so long as you support the vehicle via the chassis (ie. on jack stands) and not the suspension (so that you get some suspension droop) it is not necessary to lower the subframe on the S2 stagea. I was standing next to the guy who removed mine and he did not lower the subframe (but he had a hoist, so there was that). It wasn't particularly easy to get at the accumulator but it was easier than on BNR32.

[ian]

11 hours ago, Karlito said:

  Thanks or all the input on this thread....got to fix it with firm belief that it was the accumulator ! 

where did you get your new one from, or did you get the old one re gassed?

[West]

Where is the Attessa ECU in the S1 c34, did anyone look in the light in the ECU or did you shorted from the diagnostic port?

Thanks

[Karlito]

On 08/07/2019 at 7:52 AM, ian said:

where did you get your new one from, or did you get the old one re gassed?

Off of Terra Firma web site ( https://tfaspeed.com/ ) But i"m on the other side of the pond.... so not sure if this is less expensive than local (with the shipping and all ) for you guys. But for me this was the cheapest on the Net. Here, the Nissan dealerships are Oblivious to these cars and unless you get somebody who realy knows about cars, you will not get much out f them.

 

The option of re-gassing the thing made me cringe a bit.  No valve or anything on it. There is a nipple on the top of the cup but it would of had to drilled, tapped etc. etc. On the BNR32, I wouldn't of wanted to either change the pump because of a shaddy accumulator and/or do this heck of a job  again anytime soon. 

 

- I used a strap with a 1/2 inch socket to get it unscrewed (4th picture), but had a surprise when I realized that the accumulator is in two parts. The other part that you see on the 2nd picture had to be knocked out hard to get it unscrewed. I had a friend to hold a pry-bar and made a notch on the piece to get it to unscrew

[Karlito]

On 07/07/2019 at 9:04 PM, DaveB said:

FYI so long as you support the vehicle via the chassis (ie. on jack stands) and not the suspension (so that you get some suspension droop) it is not necessary to lower the subframe on the S2 stagea. I was standing next to the guy who removed mine and he did not lower the subframe (but he had a hoist, so there was that). It wasn't particularly easy to get at the accumulator but it was easier than on BNR32.

Yup, forgot to mentioned that this was on my BNR32. I cannot speak for the Stageas.

[BCs300z]

I know this thread is a little dated, but super great info. Recently found this thread due to having 'the clicking'. The events leading up to my clicking seem unique amongst this thread, so I thought I would mention and gather thoughts.

I bought my Stagea in Dec 2019. Took delivery in Jan 2020 and drove it pretty regular for a while - after working out misfire bugs. Anywho, never had any clicking - none that I ever noticed (which now that I have it... I am sure I would have noticed!) Around July 2020 I had to go RWD due to a U joint on the front shaft ceasing up. I pulled the shaft at the 30A fusable link in the engine bay relay box. Drove it that way till Sep 2020 when I had to tackle some other serious issues with heat and other coolant related stuff. Well, that turned into a whole gigantic project, and I just started her back up for the first time last week (Jul 2021).

During the whole project, I was able to reinstall a new (to me) front DS and I reinstalled the fusable link. And now the clicking!

I have yet to go through the bleeding process, as I just learned about it. But I still wanted to share my story about the circumstances that brought me the gift of 'the clicking'.

Cheers,
BC

[picon]

Hello,

Sorry for picking this up again. I want to share my story about the ATTESA Relay clicking issue. Maybe it helps someone.

Into:

My car was in the workshop for almost two years. Therefore, it was barely driven. Before that, I never noticed any attesa issues. After I got the car, back I noticed the clicking and after turning the ignition on that the pump running for several seconds.

Issues:

I never touched anything related to the attesa system since I got the car back. However, I noticed the clicking and by the time, it got worse. The AWD lamp was randomly on and AWD not working. When I started the car after it is warm AWD was working fine. Once I noticed oil underneath the back of the car on the attesa reservoir side. The attesa oil reservoir has the overflow valve in the cap which leaked the oil. I still not understand why I had an overflow there. After running the car for a few minutes the level in the reservoir got back to normal and I had to refill some oil.

Diagnosis:

After that, I had the car running and then touched all relays in the trunk area. The clicking one was obviously the attesa relays, which is located close to the trunk lid lock.

Therefore, I searched the web for a solution and found this thread plus several other ones that all say that the attesa pressure reservoir has a leak. Which does sound quite logical to me. I ordered a new reservoir.

 

Solution:

Due to some other issues while mapping (bad trigger signals) I decided to replace the engine harness. During the pull of the old harness, I noticed these plugs which sit in the fender area behind the headlight passenger side. The plugs connect to the engine bay harness that later connects to the main harness that powers the attesa system.

 

When I installed the new engine harness, I replaced these plugs against some nice sealed deutsch DTM plugs. Since otherwise the engine bay harness plug would have remained in that condition and I really don’t want to connect the fresh new engine harness to that filthy rubbish.

So new harness with new plus in and? No clicking and no pump running after ignition on anymore. New reservoir still sits in the shelf.

Conclusion:

MAYBE check and replace these plugs before doing any further action to solve this issue. Obviously I can’t tell if the engine harness itself or only the plugs where the issue. I think it's worth a try for everyone with the same issue.

[S1_C34]

My ATESSA relay was clicking every few seconds. Did a bunch of research, settled on it being the accumulator.

1997 25x model. 80k km's. My current daily.

Followed this guide: https://www.gtrusablog.com/2020/02/how-to-remove-and-replace-attesa.html

It's a hell of a job without dropping the diff / subframe. Actually had my diff out while resealing it and doing solid bushings, but I didn't know to replace the accumulator at the time.

New accumulator. I paid just under $200 USD for it. Shopped around by part number and went with cheapest, legit seller.

I replaced the relay as well for good measure.

New accumulator, socket to make into the tool, and 3/4 inch to 1/2 adapter.

After I got the old one out. You can see how I cut the socket. It grabs the accumulator on the shoulders, not on the points. Keep that in mind when you're making your tool.

Crusty ass, depleted 26 year old accumulator.

Getting the old one out. You need to disconnect some wires and move them out of the way. And be very careful when turning the socket to not damage the pressure sensor on the right (visible in picture). It doesn't need much to loosen. This was still a pain in the ass.

Bled the system fully after replacing. No more clicking!

Hope this helps someone.

Edited August 10, 2023 by S1_C34