Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I don't know my R34's that well. What year did the R34 change over from series 1 to series 2? A series 1 vs. 2 R33 (the whole car - not the turbo) are easy to distinguisg from one another becaise of the face lift - is it the same with R34's?

Alternatively, how do I tell the difference between an S1 and S2 R34 turbo?

Thanks!

They can all hold about the same boost.

Maybe the R34 series 2 has the Op6 exhaust housing (larger) so will make about 10kw more as stated.

They all spool quick. R33 one with the plastic compressor wheel will be the earliest spooler but all these stock ones are very reponsive. The larger exhaust housing will delay you hitting full boost by about 300rpm.

Just on topic..

R33 turbo is laggier and will have less responce than a R34 series one turbo .. R34 series 1 turbo spools much quicker and with the right mods can be full boost a 3g and less.

R34 turbo series 2, is bigger and can run a higher boost level, still spoools quick but not as fast as a series1 .. Ideal for a high flow.

I only know this because ill be doing exactly that for my 34

How is it that the R34 S1 Turbo can spool quicker than a R33 S2 turbo? Maybe on their respective engines.

Is it only the R34 S2 that has the VG30 exhaust housing and the R34 S1 has the same turbo as the R33 S2?

I don't think birth has mentioned it, but he's got an RB20 with a VG30 turbo and is looking for a more responsive turbo than what he's got.

In short I'd say R33 S2 turbo. If the R34 S1 turbo is exactly the same size (exhaust housing) then get that....only because its younger though.

Thanks KeyMaker. Have you seen anything on teh forums about how to tell the difference between the R34 S1 and S2 turbos?

No, I wasn't even aware there was a difference. My understanding was that all the R34GTT Turbos had the VG30 exhaust housing.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t1...r34+turbo+S1+S2

Might be an interesting read for ya.

Main Differences:

R33 Series 1 Turbo: The Baseline (Metal comp wheel)

R33 Series 2 Turbo: Plastic compressor wheel - quicker spool slightly

R34 Turbo: Most have the bigger exhaust housing so will be a little laggier. Rumours that some have the smaller housing. Not sure on comp wheel. 10kw more than R33 turbos if you get the "OP6" housing.

VG30 turbo: Same exhaust housing as R34 (If you get the "OP6"). Compressor wheel is smaller. Exhaust wheel possibly the same as R33/R34. Apparently not as good as an R33 turbo because they are laggy (due to the R34/VG30 housing) and don't make that much power (due to the small comp wheel size - more like R32 turbo size).

Edited by benl1981

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • These are small points I should actually add to my original post. GKtech makes an extended slave line for this conversion. It's what I use, and it works well. You'll also need a CD009 slave cylinder.  S/R Chassis Z33/Z34 Conversion braided clutch line As for transmission sensors, you'll need to both extend the wiring and replace the connectors. I can't recall which is which, but one is your neutral switch and the other the reverse switch. As they are just switches, just test for continuity with your transmission in neutral or reverse to figure out which is which. Connectors:  VQ35 neutral Switch Connector | Wiring Specialties VQ35 Reverse Switch Connector | Wiring Specialties 
    • I’ll try and see it could be the release bearing. As for the 4th gear grind maybe clutch doesn’t disengage properly cause it is slightly like very slightly hard to go into first could be due to the slab cylinder pin being short uni clutch is a twin plate.   Ive attached some assembly photos hopefully you can open the link and see maybe detect what’s wrong https://share.icloud.com/photos/0dc2YvW__Hl6jl-l2_0jejjpg https://share.icloud.com/photos/09e0jkWOK-vP48c1cfY6u3ViA https://share.icloud.com/photos/0b4rDmh5R7pK7fb1VtND73a3g https://share.icloud.com/photos/05eeUi_6dC4DVi80jOUYDgb0g https://share.icloud.com/photos/06335TgY1XxyIJal_wkdQLhzw
    • Yeah for sure that is peddle adjustment 
    • What are your thoughts on this after having it for a while, worth getting?
    • Downshifts are harder on transmissions than upshifts, the input shaft naturally slows down once disconnected from the engine so the synchros aren't doing all the work. There's no "natural" tendency for an input shaft to increase RPM. Something is not right there, I don't have a great answer on what. You can try a dedicated GL4 75W90, I plan to switch to Motorcraft XT-M5-QS which is supposedly a very good 75W90 for NB Miatas which have a weirdly sensitive transmission from the factory. I would chase down why your clutch is making a hissing noise, that's not normal. It might be no big deal but in the absence of anything else to investigate I would look at that.
×
×
  • Create New...